Driving car today and the engine light came on, so before going home I stopped at local garage and had it checked. this is what they got- first code P1445, second code P1000. Car is a 2012 Hyundai Accent automatic hatchback with approx. 40,000 km. (25,000 miles) bought in May of 2012.
View 5 Replies1999 ranger 3.0. Check engine light popped up showing P1000 and P0401 codes. I think the p1000 is a system readiness test. Not sure why that came up and the 401 is exhaust gas problem. I put on a new autozone DPFE a few months ago..
View 5 RepliesI have not yet managed to fix the Ex, i have replaced the CPS with a Delphi 101 cps, and the ICP sensor. The truck ran great for almost 3 hours, but then started acting up again. Codes I pull are P1000 and P1280.
The p1280 code is probably from a loose connector, i got injection pressure of 728psi constant at idle and during low rpms, will fix that tomorrow, but that is probably not what causes the hiccup, but if my new one is function correctly, then i might be something else? The old was from stock and had an oily connector, i have replaced the pigtail though.
The funny thing is, that when i open the hood, the rpms will climb up around 200rpms at idle, to right under 1000rpms, it will do this slowly, takes about 10 seconds. Close the hood and it goes back to normal, so maybe a vacuum leak? When i slam the hood shut, it will sometimes do the hiccup. I have managed to loose 2 of the bolts to the valve cover, but it sits tightly.
Really lost on this truck, what can cause this hiccup, when it does it, the water-fuel light comes on (got a new filter in it). I also have a check engine light, but if i delete the codes when its running, it goes away until startup again.
Another thing i have noticed is that the truck is slower to start then normal, before i got this problem, the truck would start right up when turning the key, now i have to crank it for about a second more.
Our second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
I have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
View 3 RepliesSo mad today. Check engine light came on, plugged in my scanner, got P0441 EVAP Emission Control system Purge Flow Fault and P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large).
8-month old '13 TCH XLE is getting a check engine light already.
I got a 2012 Hyundai Accent SE manual 112000 mostly highway miles. For a month now I am getting the MIL on and P2191 code (System too lean at higher load bank1) after erasing the code it appeared again in 3-4 days. I replaced air filter check all valves and vacuum in air flow, changed to premium gas. Pipe that connected to the valve from EVAP system looks not damaged and valve works as intended. While changing spark plugs I noticed that all of them were quite charred. I am thinking to replace both O2 up/down stream sensors. Which not OEM sensors would be the best match for my Accent?
View 11 RepliesI love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
View 5 RepliesCheck engine light came ON yesterday and I got a diagnosis at Autozone. These are the codes that came up.
P0456 - EVAP Emission System Leak (very small)
P0326 - Knock Sensor 1 Range/Performance Bank
I'm brand new 6.0 owner. I am going to be performing many of the bullet proofing steps including plugging off of or a complete delete of the EGR cooler. I've read that the SCT tuner will turn off the CEL light and stop the ECM from operating EGR function.
What I can't find for sure is will I get a code P1000 (drive cycle not completed) with EGR turned off. Here in Seattle if you have a code P1000 stored you will not be allowed to complete emissions testing to get your tabs renewed. I'm guessing it does not set P1000.
Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2000 Accent that is having some problems. Last year, I took it into our trusted mechanic, who told me that the engine was going downhill - one of the cylinders was dead (this was in response to us wanting to drive it to Texas for our daughter that was stationed there - we just wanted a tune-up). The car ran fine, and here we are a year later - and need a smog.
It does have a problem starting at times when we put fuel in it (at 1 particular gas station) and Hyundai told us it was an EVAP issue and it would cost us $622. (Hyundai NEVER mentioned anything regarding the engine issue). We never got it fixed because again, it only happens at that one station, so we try to avoid it - and the car runs great (it has 190k miles on it).
So now, we need to get it smogged. Same mechanic wouldn't do anything - I pulled codes off my reader and it only gave me the 2 441/442 codes. I cleared the CEL off the dash.
Now, my question is: Should I just take it back to Hyundai for them to do the smog and EVAP repair? Or should I try to have it smogged. I'm not willing to give up on it yet. I'm sure the mechanic thinks it is dying, but I've been told that the engine would run rough and vibrate if a cylinder was dead. Of course, reality may smack me upside the head, but it just runs fine except for the fuel issue, that I'm doubting him.
So, I recently purchased a new HID kit for my car, with a harness and power source from the battery and everything. But the problem is my right light keeps going out. I had trouble when I first installed it so I switched the ballast and it still had the same problem on the same side, so jiggled around with the ground for a little and it worked. Later it went out again and while driving it went back on and for the next two days it worked. It's out again now and I have yet to play around with it.
View 2 RepliesSo first time esc light came up on cluster was around 56k miles. No cruise control or ability to use obd2 port. No cel just esc light on..... Dealer fixed by replacing a blown fuse behind fuse panel. That lasted maybe 500 miles and esc light back on with same symptoms. I replaced fuse myself, which fixed it, just to last maybe 100 miles before coming back on again. Replaced fuse again and waiting to see how long it lasts. I will be going back to dealer to see what they come up with but not sure what is making it blow fuses all of a sudden and so frequently?
View 5 RepliesMy wife had her car go off today while driving. Prior to this happening, she had switched off the engine while in a gas station, with the gear in D. After driving about 13kms more, the car goes off while in motion and doesn't restart immediately. When it finally does, it shudders until finally stabilizing. Could it possibly be due to the single act of switching off while in D gear? The car is a 2013 accent GLS.
View 28 RepliesOf all the manual transmission gasoline engine cars/trucks I've driven before, RB Accent has the least amount of engine braking regardless of engine RPM. Did Hyundai program throttle to stay open while gas pedal is off for smoother driving?
View 10 RepliesI drive a 2014 model, and my electronics have been on the fritz.
The AC control backlights don't light up, my dimmer switch doesn't work (instrument cluster stuck on full brightness no matter the position I move the switch to), my front right yellow turn signal light doesn't light up, and my rear right tail light doesn't light up (I have replaced the bulbs on both, so they are not receiving current).
Does this sound like a blown fuse? If so, which one(s) should I look at?
How many gallons do you have left when your light goes on? My car is a lil off topic I have a 2013 Rio but notice that the gas light came on and I still had 4 gallons left........
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