Accent RB (2012+) :: Engine Consumes Oil With A Drain
Feb 13, 2016
I have an accent rb 2012 with 243215 km in its storyteller I used the total synthetic 10w40 oil and I noticed that my engine Consumes oil with a drain was another missing 0.7 liter I roll with a 8000 km oil change , this is normal or not !!
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My wife had her car go off today while driving. Prior to this happening, she had switched off the engine while in a gas station, with the gear in D. After driving about 13kms more, the car goes off while in motion and doesn't restart immediately. When it finally does, it shudders until finally stabilizing. Could it possibly be due to the single act of switching off while in D gear? The car is a 2013 accent GLS.
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Of all the manual transmission gasoline engine cars/trucks I've driven before, RB Accent has the least amount of engine braking regardless of engine RPM. Did Hyundai program throttle to stay open while gas pedal is off for smoother driving?
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I recently got a 2013 Hyundai Accent and am wondering about what a 'normal' running engine sounds like. (it sounds way different than my '98' Elantra) It drives smooth but if I drive slow , it almost sounds like an up-down or rotating engine sound (up and down swell?) Also, when it's idling it sounds like the computer is always adjusting it?? Or something like that. Just want to make sure mine in fine. (84,000km on it.)
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I drives grand Avega (new accent). I had a problem on my car. on instrument cluster there were no indication P,N,D,R and speedometer didn't indicate. Engine able to start normally but can't accelerate it seems like A/T transmit ion on higher shift.
Before that happened I installed a LED for additional lamp on door and I use /jumper a power from behind of fuse box.
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What is the easiest way to empty the gas tank in an '01 Accent GS 1.6 auto without dropping the tank? The gas in the Accent tank is doing no good if I can't drive it, so I wanted to drain it and put it in my Camry. I was thinking of pulling the fuel pump and siphoning from there?
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I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
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When I first got my Accent a few weeks a go I thought this car just had unique braking functions with the ABS valve, but after driving it every day for a few weeks I think that perhaps the problem is the way the car downshifts.
Whenever I am braking and the car downshifts to 2nd gear at around 25MPH I feel the engine bog down, almost as if you were downshifting at too high of an RPM. However it only happens if I am braking slowly, when I need to brake harder I don't seem to notice it, either because it doesn't do it or because I can't feel it over the more pronounced forward momentum.
I verified that it does seem to be the engine or transmission, because if I brake with the car in neutral it won't do it. So my question would be is this just a normal function of this car, or should I take it in to be checked out?
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My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
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My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
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While i'm driving the engine I think will shake or jump for a while then stop. Or when i'm at a red light and stopped.
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My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
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My wife's Hyundai has the check engine light on and the engine temperature is staying right in the middle no matter the temperature outside, or if the car has been sitting an hour or over night. We're still under warranty, but are stretched for time in the coming week to stop by the dealer. I'm assuming it's a temperature sensor malfunctioning and the computer is throwing a code for that. Would this affect normal operation of the car until we can get it checked out?
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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Battery died. Got jump start but the guy crossed the jump cables. When positioned the cables correctly , the vehicle started normal but during the drive, heard two loud bangs on the engine; then the car shut down. Towed car to the dealer and they replaced the battery and the master fuse. The dealer rep. told me that the ABS light was still ON. Two days later I took the car from the dealer with The ABS, tire, BRAKE, EPS, skid, and engine lights ON and the steering is hard as well.
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I have a 12 day old Hyundai Accent 2012. I got the GL automatic transmission with a 1.4L engine.
I noticed a rattling sound inside the engine bay after a week of using the new ACCENT. It rattles when the engine is at medium effort. Usually i hear this kind of rattling sound with my 20 year old Mazda, but with a 12 day old car? WHAT?!
Got it serviced with Hyundai but they think it's the unleaded gasoline that's causing it, but they don't recommend using the high octane one. Talking with the technicians there, a lot of 2012 Accent owners already came back to the shop to complain about their rattling sound in the engine bay and i was not the worse sounding one.
I will record my rattling sound tonight by placing a small microphone inside the engine bay and post it youtube.
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Today I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
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So, just bought new se and the engine seems to shake randomly. It's most noticeable while standing. When I say shake, sometimes it feels like the rpms drop to not quite but almost seem to stall. The rpms don't actually drop the needle is steady as can be.
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I have myself changed the oil and filter in my Accent 2013 for the 1st time; after the change everything looked fine, no alarm lights, oil level is OK, no leakages, etc.
However. when I turn off the car I hear beeps coming from the engine, I hear relay clicks and after some seconds the sounds disappear.
When I had the oil changed at an oil shop, this didn't happen. Again, I see no alarms on the driver panel.
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Sometimes when I stand at idle, the engine seems to vibrate more than usual. I looked at the RPM gauge and it didn't move at all, it's at roughly 1000-1100 RPM when it occurs. Is it something I should show to the dealer?
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My 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
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