I'm looking at changing the height of the accelerator pedal so it's more inline with the brake pedal to make heel toe shifting easier, because at the moment I cannot get my heel anywhere near where the accelerator is.
View 3 RepliesMy 2001 Hyundai accent hatchback with around 135000 miles is having problems with the gas pedal. I start my car and can't really push down the gas pedal smoothly. It is initially hard where I have to slightly kick the pedal to move it. Otherwise if I rest my foot on the pedal and try to press it down I end up press it down too much where my car goes flying. Every time I come to a stop I have to do that to get the pedal to move. Its not stiff once I get the pedal to push down some but once I take my foot off the pedal I have to slightly kick it back down.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
Automatic transmission fluid change. I can't find any info in the manual. What does Hyundai recommend? What mileage should I change fluid ??
View 4 RepliesI have myself changed the oil and filter in my Accent 2013 for the 1st time; after the change everything looked fine, no alarm lights, oil level is OK, no leakages, etc.
However. when I turn off the car I hear beeps coming from the engine, I hear relay clicks and after some seconds the sounds disappear.
When I had the oil changed at an oil shop, this didn't happen. Again, I see no alarms on the driver panel.
The other day I saw this message (or something similar) in the instrument cluster display for the first time. I was parked, car unladen, engine not running, parking brake on, facing somewhat uphill, when I attempted to change to the higher ride height.
The Handbook doesn't refer to conditions for ride height adjustments.
I'm pretty confident my batteries are fine. I attributed the reluctance to the fact that the car was pointing uphill, though on reflection may that not be exactly a time when you do need to change ride height?
A few minutes later, driving on the level, the ride height adjusted perfectly well, and it has done so since whether moving or at rest.
On releasing the clutch pedal, a creaking noise can be heard, which:
- sounds and feels like a rusty spring being unloaded
- occurs for the entire range of pedal travel, but worse near the bottom
- is louder outside the car than inside
- happens not only when driving, but also when stationary with the engine off
I don't think anything is wrong with the clutch itself, or any bearings, or major components... It just feels like something needs to be lubed. I've lubed the spring above the pedal inside the car, with no real effect.
Perhaps a strange question, but is there any way the pedal height can be decreased. On my 2010 LS 460 it seems to be higher than on my previous 2005 LS 430 to the extent that I lift my foot off the accelerator pedal and miss the top of the brake pedal. It's happened often enough that I've been wondering if it could be reduced an inch or so.
View 1 RepliesIn most other manual tranny cars that I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Not my accent. is it possible to adjust the clutch pedal so that engagement isn't so far away from the floor? it pretty much fully engages at the near top of the pedal.
View 2 RepliesWas talking to a cab company running over a hundred Prius, they like the gas mileage.
Biggest problem running a hundred plus Prius in LA is the skirt front bumper is so low to the ground (for better aerodynamics) ... less than 5 inches ground clearance when loaded ... it hits the ground and bows the side moldings of the bumper.
I've taken out the 2 bolt covers, taken out the T30 bolt, and have loosened the gas pedal a bit. But I can't pry the gas pedal upwards with a flat head screwdriver. I'm pulling and yanking this pedal up and back towards the front of the car and it won't pop off! Are there any tricks to getting this pedal off?
View 2 RepliesMy Egg's only a week old and every time i start and get going i get this rattle(and bit of noise) thru the accelerator pedal after a few seconds- just once only and never again until I completely stop and restart to move again.
View 4 RepliesIf I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
Yesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
View 19 RepliesV10 TDI doesnt give any boost when accelerator pedal is flattenned. What could be wrong.
View 2 Replies2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
I need to know how to unplug the accelerator wiring. I lift the little red lock on the side, but then I still can't unplug it. I've tried pressing on different places like is so common with other plugs, but no luck.
View 1 RepliesSo I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
It was the throttle body thing, cleaned that completely. Replaced the pedal with one from the bone yard. No change after clearing codes, the check engine light comes back the second you touch the pedal. Have a new (reman) throttle body coming tomorrow as I may have dinged it up after cleaning it again, I took it apart to see if I could see anything obvious.
Cleaned the carbon tracks inside and bent the brushes up more to contact the tracks better. I doubt it liked that. It was throwing a code for high current, but now that has disappeared. However, I used to be able to rev it up to 2500 rpm, now nada.... So I am left wondering if this is a bad ground or something? Bad wiring to the ECM:?
I would love a schematic showing where any relevant grounds are, pin out voltages etc. It is -15 here. The closest I've come so far: [URL] ....
1996 Jaguar XJ6 4.0 Litre Base, 43000 miles... While driving, this car, suddenly accelerator pedal becomes very hard to push and car will not move at all even if you press hard pedal to the floor( Requires a lots of force). If I put brakes on, shift the transmission to reverse and to then to drive, it will start moving again. No check engine light comes on and there are no codes stored in computer. This never happens on cruise control. Car starts flawlessly even on cold morning. Battery is new and charging system works fine. Spark plugs were changed at 30,000 miles so also direct ignition coil on cylinder No.3 .....
View 3 RepliesThe accelerator pedal on my 1993 Nissan pickup occassionally "sticks". Mainly when I'm leaving a (stop-sign/red light, etc) or if I let off pedal (in traffic etc) then push on it again to accelerate. I've changed the throttle cable (had a brand new one from brother in law...still in packing). I took it to Nissan dealership few years ago and they couldn't figure it out, same with a (highly recommended) local shop.
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