Accent RB (2012+) :: CEL Popped On - Emissions / Evap Control Valve Leaking Above The Fuel Tank
Nov 4, 2014
Check engine light popped on (first time ever) at 76,000 miles. Had my brother read the code with this engine diagnostic tool and it said "Fuel Cap". No big deal...
Take it to Hyundai, nope, not fuel cap... it's an Emissions/Evap control valve leaking above the fuel tank somewhere.
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A few days ago code 0496 popped up for evap system problems. The fuel tank is very pressurized and there is a constant bubbling heard in the fuel in the tank with the gas cap removed. Sounds like blowing air through a drink with a straw. I have never had a problem like this with any car in over 45 years.
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I am scheduled to leave on a trip in the morning. I have installed an 85 gallon in bed auxillary fuel tank. I plumbed it in as per the instructions and the same as the last two I had in other trucks. After install I pumped 25 gallons in the aux to see how it worked. Every thing worked right. So yesterday I filled both tanks to the top and left the shutoff between them open.
This morning I noticed a puddle of diesel on the shop floor. Wiped it up and left for the golf course. Got home and found another puddle. I have closed the shut-off valve but it still seems to be leaking. It is not the plumbing I installed. It's hard to tell because I have a protector around the tank but it seems the leak is coming from the top. I just took a short run down the highway and reparked it. I have a can't miss appointment so when I get back I'll see how much has leaked.
Is there some kind of overflow on top the tank? Everything is dry where the aux tank is plumbed in and the air pipe seems to be fine. If the leak stops with the shutoff closed then I'm just gonna head out but if not then I'm gonna take down the shield and see what I can find, but I'd sure rather not.
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This began as a troubleshooting exercise for a P0442 code (2002 model) indicating a leak in the evap emissions system. Often caused by simple things like a loose/poorly sealing filler cap. Not this time
It's a neat design, tucked away up in the fender well. Even sports a very effective stone guard (plastic shield) which hides all that tubing from view. But the shield also traps all the road salt and mud and packs it into the crevices between the tubes where it stays from one winter till the next. Even a powerful car wash probably can't dislodge the caked on mess once solidified.
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I have been replacing brake lines on our old rusty Cherokee when I discovered the evap line from fuel tank is partially missing, rusted away near the back. I have never noticed raw fuel smell, but what issues will this problem cause? I will replace the line if needed which apparently involves dropping the fuel tank.
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Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
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Twice now I've had my fuel cap/gas cap come loose and throw a CEL regarding emissions. This is fixed by screwing the cap back on and clearing the code. There is no good reason for the fuel cap to unscrew itself so I'm thinking there could be an underlying issue, possibly pressure related.
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Is it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
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1990 f150
I have a leak in my rear fuel tank, the front tank has been blocked off and is not used, The leak is at the seam of the two part tank, once removed is there a way to seal this? or should I just replace it?
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I bought a 2000 Passat GLS w/ the V6 a couple weeks ago, and the very next day after buying it, the CEL came on and something popped on saying Emissions Workshop. I waited a couple weeks to see if it would turn off, but it didn't so I took it to a mechanic.
The first time, they just said a couple codes were off so they reset the computer. About 20 miles later, the lights came back on. I took it back and they hooked it up to their computer again.
They said the o2 sensors were perfect, and it was most likely some sort of resistance in one of my cats. The car runs absolutely perfect. I just wanted to get some feedback from ya'll because I do not want to pay the money to have a cat replaced if I don't have to.
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So mad today. Check engine light came on, plugged in my scanner, got P0441 EVAP Emission Control system Purge Flow Fault and P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large).
8-month old '13 TCH XLE is getting a check engine light already.
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I've got a 2004 6.8L Excursion (about 124k mileage). Was gassed up yesterday, today the emissions light popped on. I checked the fuel cap and it was on tight. Any other easy things to check before I head down to Advanced Auto to see if they can pop it on the diagnostic machine?
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Check engine light emissions evap system code comes up when the system is scanned what could be problem? 1998 chevrolet prizm...
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Haven't had the engine cover off for about 25k now (cleaned it up under there last time I changed plugs.) Took it off today and noticed it's a little oily on all four sides around the valve cover.
Pretty sure I can account for the oil that's near the filler cap... I don't recall spilling enough that would completely go around the entire valve cover though...
But how did it end up so high on top of the valve cover on the corners? It's even a little wet looking on the back if you look hard enough..
I only have 4600 miles left of the 10/100 warranty so I'm glad I caught this and hope the dealer can do something about it... or are they going to tell me this a "normal" amount of seepage? I haven't owned a vehicle with plastic valve covers before so I don't quite know what to expect.
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I have owned 64 Mercury Monterey since new. Power steering control valve was leaking. I replaced the original, control valve, power cylinder, pump and hoses with new parts. I bled system and now I do not have power steering at low speed as in when trying to park the car. Parts store exchanged new parts thinking one may hjave been defective and still same problem except this time the control valve leaked all the fluid from the cap that covers the spool adjusting nut. I don't know what to do??
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Bought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:
1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.
I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.
First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?
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Just found valve cover of my Tiguan is leaking out oil this morning. Will go to dealer tmr for gasket replacement. My car is just over 50k miles. What happened to VW's car quality control???
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I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy Wagon and the fuel tank is leaking on the top. I have taken it to the local dealer to replacing the tank. It seems that you have to take out the exhaust system , then the rear drive train to even get to the tank. It was not a problem for quite awhile but now the check engine light is on and it won't pass inspection. Is there a way I can fix this without taking out the tank?
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My 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
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I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
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My '10 Golf TDI started leaking gasoline this morning, found smallish puddle in the garage. Looked underneath and there was definitely fuel on the underside of the tank. Moved the car into the driveway so the leaking fuel can evaporate.
Not sure what happened. I did hit something on the highway yesterday, a piece of tire from a semi went underneath the car. Of course it's been really hot 100+ deg lately. Maybe a fitting has come loose?
I'm not going to risk driving it, but can't do anything about it until monday. I'll call the shop and see what they recommend, tow or drive.
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