Accent RB (2012+) :: CEL On And Engine Temperature Is Staying Right In The Middle
Dec 6, 2014
My wife's Hyundai has the check engine light on and the engine temperature is staying right in the middle no matter the temperature outside, or if the car has been sitting an hour or over night. We're still under warranty, but are stretched for time in the coming week to stop by the dealer. I'm assuming it's a temperature sensor malfunctioning and the computer is throwing a code for that. Would this affect normal operation of the car until we can get it checked out?
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Since I bought the car I noticed my temperature gauge has never even touched the middle mark on the instrument panel. Is this normal or is my thermostat hung open?
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There is a black mark in the middle console near the cd player. I don't recall how it got there, but if this is a scuff mark that I can rub off, or if it is the paint or something below and the silver area was rubbed off.
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I'm still getting to know my 2014 GS and I had a few questions.
What can I use the USB port for besides an ipod or as a very slow charger?
Do all of the Accents have an issue with the steering wheel not returning to center but staying slightly off center? I like the steering overall, but this really throws me. Should I see if the dealer can check its alignment? I like how it feels in corners, but going straight is much worse than I thought it was from the test drives I did....
My car is a manual and for now I have been curious to see how the eco pro mode suggests I shift. It never registers that I am in 4th gear and will keep telling me to be in 4th until I have accelerated enough to get to 5th (or 6th). Does this sound like something might be broken? Would it not registering 4th gear have any effect on anything else in the car?
How long do these stock tires tend to last? I'm not in any rush to spend money on new tires, but these stock ones are... good at some things and bad at others.
I am liking the reported MPGs on it so far. I reset it far too often just to see how different trips are reported. My worst one so far was a 13 miles trip on streets going over a 700 foot hill twice. I still got 32mpg reported.
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My 04 hyundai accent about 2-3 months ago acquired a hissing noise which seems to be coming from the middle of the engine compartment. The car only has 100,000 miles on it.
It is a constant hiss that only stops when the gas pedal is pushed initially. I have looked all over the car and can not see any fluids leaking at all. It is pretty loud and can be heard easily outside the car when the car is on.
I hooked up my obd2 reader and found these codes:
P0304-Cylinder 4 misfire (I notice it when the car sits at idle for about a minute)
2x P0121- Throttle Position circuit range/performance problem
2x- Evaporative emission incorrect purge flow.
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It happened randomly on the way home from work, the car chugged along with the check engine light flashing at me and then staying on. I was able to limp it home and got a ride to the nearest auto parts store to get some new plugs. I went with the NGK brand. Well, $60 later (including tools on the spot) and it's still running rough.
I know best case it to try and limp it to the autoparts store to let them try and pull the codes. I noticed an old thread where updates were made to the software to correct a running issue. I will note this same chugging randomly happened at 50,000 miles. I shut the car off, let it sit for a moment, restarted and it ran just fine. The engine vibrates noticeably just like it did at 50,000.
2009 Accent running rough 73,000 miles....
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I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
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I have a 1997 Ford Explorer with 5.0, I have replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, I drive the truck to work in the mornings (12miles) and it is fine. We live on a mountain and on the way home after getting to the top of the mountain the temperature gauge goes past middle and nears the red but does not overheat completely. Once home I open the hood and the overflow is steaming or sometimes boiling, and I have checked thermostat again to make sure and it is operating normal, I have been told fan clutch, water pump, and I don't want to just throw money at guesses.
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I have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
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I have a 2012 Passat 2.0 TDI (140) DSG
Sometimes the engine temperature stays low for an entire drive. Regardless of speed - it has happened while sitting in traffic for hours or while sitting at 70mph.
When this is happening, the engine temperature gauge will go up and down, but never reach 90, and the oil temperature reading fluctuates from around 60 to 80. Also the air into the car doesn't get hot enough, but now we're out of winter that doesn't matter too much.
But then other days it will be 100% fine - it rises up to 90 within 10 minutes of a cold start and stays there the whole day - and the oil temperature sits between 90 and 100.
I've taken it to a couple of VW dealers but obviously it behaves perfectly on those days! I remember reading something about a thermostat that circulates coolant to the DSG box, which can cause these kinds of symptoms?
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Had no problems until a month ago the car just stopped in the middle of driving it. It hasn't turned back on since. It cranks and sounds great, just won't turn over.
Here's everything we've changed so far:
spark plugs
ignition coils
fuel filter
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
crank shaft sensor
added gas
If there's something we're missing.
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I installed aftermarket fog lights and tapped into cigarette lighter fuse. fog lights occasionally stay on even after key is removed. Which fuse will guarantee that the lights will be off with the key removed?
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Not sure what happen that led to the Airbag light next to the speedo staying on.
Codes retrieved:
B1346 = DAB circuit resistance high
B1481 = DAB module circuit resistance high
B1329 = DFIS to SRSCM communication error
B2502 = Telltale ind light circuit malfunction
B1388 = Driver Seat track position sensor open or short to power
B1378 = DSAB circuit resistance too high
B2500 = Air Bag Warning light circuit fault
B1511 = Driver Belt Buckle switch circuit open or short to power
Where to begin solving for this problem.
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We just bought my Daughter a low mileage 2007 Hatchback Accent and I noticed the water temp light on the dash stays on for about 4 to 5 minutes after you crank the car up. Is this normal for this model? It is not low of water.
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Is it ok to install a convertible car seat, in forward facing position, in the middle of the rear seat?
I only ask because i noticed the LATCH tethers at the bottom on the left and right side, but not a pair in the middle. However, there is oddly 3 top anchors on the backside of the back seat. So the middle anchor is making me wondering whether it's ok to use the LATCH anchors in the middle position.
If it matters, we have a Britax Marathon 70. My wife wants us to drive an SUV for our trip and I want to use the prius... The huge SUV has LATCH anchors in the middle position as well as the side positions (i.e. for a total of 6 anchors, or 3 pairs, in the SUV vs. the 4 anchors or 2 pairs that I see in the prius).
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My wife had her car go off today while driving. Prior to this happening, she had switched off the engine while in a gas station, with the gear in D. After driving about 13kms more, the car goes off while in motion and doesn't restart immediately. When it finally does, it shudders until finally stabilizing. Could it possibly be due to the single act of switching off while in D gear? The car is a 2013 accent GLS.
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Of all the manual transmission gasoline engine cars/trucks I've driven before, RB Accent has the least amount of engine braking regardless of engine RPM. Did Hyundai program throttle to stay open while gas pedal is off for smoother driving?
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I have a 2006 hyundai accent when I turn the ignition key off the parking lights stay on but its doesn't happen all the time.
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I have a 2006 Accent and recently the interior lights have gone dim and the switch to adjust them does not make them brighter nor dimmer, why this has happened? I don't usually have it on the brightest but not the lowest either and now it seems to stay on the lowest setting.
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I recently got a 2013 Hyundai Accent and am wondering about what a 'normal' running engine sounds like. (it sounds way different than my '98' Elantra) It drives smooth but if I drive slow , it almost sounds like an up-down or rotating engine sound (up and down swell?) Also, when it's idling it sounds like the computer is always adjusting it?? Or something like that. Just want to make sure mine in fine. (84,000km on it.)
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I have an accent rb 2012 with 243215 km in its storyteller I used the total synthetic 10w40 oil and I noticed that my engine Consumes oil with a drain was another missing 0.7 liter I roll with a 8000 km oil change , this is normal or not !!
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