I ran over a curb on the passenger side and somehow broke off all 4 tabs that you screw into to hold your fog lights in place.
How to fix this issue without replacing the bumper? I don't have any cracks in the bumper but I do have scratches on the bottom of the bumper.
I don't suppose I can get this replaced under warranty can I?
I went to remove the license plate screw head broke off because of rust.
what I can do to remove the screw body.
I have a 2012 Accent GLS with premium package. So, this came with fog lights. Few months back, one of the fog lights got ripped of its place and the body shop said the hooks which hold the light are broken and whole bumper need to be replaced for the light to be attached and quote was given for around $750.
I contacted other small body shops to just stick the light with glue but no one accepted to do that.
I don't use those fog lights anyway. So, is it cheap in a way to remove the other fog light and just fill the fog light spots? When I say fill, I am not sure what those are called which exist in place of fog lights for a car with no fog lights. I think its better than just being with one fog light.
That one little bulb on the left just doesn't cut it.
This afternoon I finally had a chance to wire in two 10" strips of LED lights into the back of my SE. Here's how it turned out (and yes, I need to clean my trunk):
Not bad at all! I shot a bunch of video and will try and find time tomorrow to edit it together for a DIY.
Looking to be able to have my parking lights and fog lights on at the same time. Currently when the headlights get turned off so do the fog lights. I have a US RB with no DRL. What needs to be done with the wiring if you've done this mod.
View 9 RepliesAccent 2012. I replaced the trunk and map lights with LEDs and they worked okay. I did the dome light last and something caused the interior lights to not come on. The light switch is set to door for the dome and middle position for the map lights. I am pretty sure I have the LED dome light polarity correct because it did come on for a bit while I was seating it.
Now the map and dome lights don't come on. I checked the 'ROOM LP 1' fuse and it looked good but I replaced it with one of the spare 10A fuses anyway. Still not working. The trunk LED does still light.
I searched this site and found in the 2007-2012 santa fe forum under 'front dome light not working when doors open' which mentions a blown diode in the dome light housing causing a similar issue.
This morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
View 6 RepliesAfter lurking through the site and grabbing a hold off a copy of the RB's wiring diagram, I thought I'd put my basic electronics to good use. I managed to replace the stock alarm that came with my unit to a Passive Keyless Entry (PKE) with Start/Stop button.
After all the wirings, I managed to get it to work with one minor glitch: the instrument lights for the transmission level and manual A/C won't turn on as it used to whenever I turn on my park lights / head lights. I do *think* that it's still wired as the light for the air circulation comes off when I turn on the headlight knob. I also tried to re-insert the M17 ignition switch to see if that's the cause, but the lights still won't come on. Note that the reason the M17 ignition switch was removed is because I don't want the key (now cut and covered by the push start / stop button) to trigger anything when it's turned. I only need it there now just to disable the steering wheel lock.
Where I should start checking? I'm hoping it's just a busted fuse somewhere, but if I need to tap these instrument lights to another power source in replacement of whatever the ignition switch was originally used for.
I have a 2015 Hyundai Accent, and haven't had any problems with it whatsoever until this past weekend. I was driving with my Mom, driving her around to do errands, when all of the warning lights on the instrument panel flashed and then disappeared. My trip indicator also reset, even though I hadn't been using it at the time - I usually keep that button on the gas mile screen (the one that tells you how many miles you have left until you need to get gas). But when the lights flashed, the gas mile screen disappeared and reset to the first screen (the one for the trip indicator, which had gone back to zero abruptly). I'm not sure why this has happened. The car didn't stop or anything like that. I was actively going down the road at the time, going a decent speed. The only thing out of the ordinary was that there was a traffic helicopter above us (this was in an area that tracks speed by air radar), and I wonder if this happened because the helicopter hit us with the radar?
View 7 RepliesMy brake lights keeps going off and the stop fuse keeps blowing and when it blows the TRAC light turns on and stay on. I try to change all the brake light bulbs and the 15amp fuse that was blown but it blows again what could it be?
View 1 RepliesHave 2010 Accent. Like it. BUT tire valves awkward to reach, so I put extensions to use tire gage and air pump more conveniently. When I went to take metal cover off, the whole valve broke in my hand. Cost $100.00 because sensor had to be replaced as well. Dealer would not cover cost because I had used aftermarket equipment instead of OE plastic valve cover and metal cover had corroded in place. E-mailed factory rep, got same answer.
Also, when reaching across passenger seat to wind down window, crank came off in my hand. Shoved it back on, but just recently noticed there is a bezel in door tray where it landed. Can't for life of me see where it should go.
In the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
How do I remove the Radio if the Tabs are Broken? I put the Keys and 2 out of 4 don't Catch... Don't even know if the 2 actually Catch either... How would i Remove the Radio?
View 7 RepliesRecently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
So I've been getting that nasty, musky odor in my 2006 Sonata. I just purchased it used last December, so don't know when the cabin air filter was last changed. I had to do this with my Camry not too long ago, so I still have the spray to try on it if the filter isn't too old/dirty. The problem:
When I lowered the glovebox to get to the cabin air filter, one of the tabs was broken off. I figured no big deal. I pressed on the other three and they all broke off. My husband tried to get it out, but no luck. I'm afraid of damaging it if I try to pry it out and even if I succeed, do I have to do that every time I need to get to the filter? Where I would find a new housing?
So I was installing my Hid's and the clip broke off, clip still in tact but the part that it's held in where the screw is at is gone. What can be done about this?
View 6 RepliesI just completed the spark plug change on my wife's '07 RX350. As the numerous threads on this topic point out, this is one serious undertaking. I'm not claiming to be a mechanic but have done my share of DIY's including changing the usual oil/filter, brake discs/pads, serpentine belt, rear hatch switch and now the spark plugs on my wife's car and the same or similar on all of my other cars. This has got to be the single most difficult project that I've tackled recently. I did fail to do the front Mac struts but this was because I didn't appear to have the right spring compressor. Go figure.
Anyhow, I found that I needed to remove the front windshield cowl to get access to that infamous third stay bolt.
To my question ... I managed to break off the tabs that lock the connector to the ignition coil on about three spark plugs. I'm concerned about these eventually vibrating off. Should I be concerned about this? Do I need to now go in and change these? Or, tie-wrap then in place?
I broke a nipple that a small hose connects to while I was changing my air filter. What this is and possibly some fix-it tips. I attached a couple of pics. one broke and one not broke.
View 9 RepliesWas trying to remove the licenses plate screws today. One comes out easily, the other won't budge. I've sprayed a couple of times with WD40 but its still stuck.
View 14 RepliesSo I found a screw in my rear tire. Soap tested it and found no leak. I got bold, pulled it out and found it to be a short wood screw. It is less than 1/4" long including the head. The head was resting on top of the thread so the hole wasn't very deep. Soap tested it again, no leak. What should I do? I do check my tire pressures weekly.
View 14 RepliesJust returning home from one week business trip envisioning a quit and relaxing weekend...First thing I did was stepping in my car on the airport parking lot driving a screw into my tire.... That already set my Saturday morning schedule.Bright and early went to my tire dealer of choice.They flat out said it was unsafe to fix that tire and also said they do not have the VW Tiguan's OEM Pirelli Scorpion Zero in their portfolio recommending to go to my VW dealer and get a new tire. As they did not try to sell me one of their tires (they were not busy) it convinced me that they were telling the truth.
Half an hour later arriving at my VW dealer.hey simply plugged the hole in my tire. While they had concerns about the tire holding air when plugged they were not concerned about the safety when driving the tire once it's confirmed that it holds up air. While some websites (Tire-Rack) say that a tire NOT fixed inside and outside is NOT the safe way to do so my tire was only fixed from the outside not taking it of the rim. As you can see on the pictures the screw was not really in the middle / drive tread. But somewhat close to the outside.
What do the experts among you say. Is this an accident to happen ? Should I just get one new tire (The other tire of the axle has 10400 miles driven / not quite sure if I have to replace the whole axle )
What I want to avoid is a tire exploding at highway speeds. Worst case would be while pulling my teardrop trailer.