Is there a secret to this? I've tried everything. I have the proper tools, I've dried bleeding the brake fluid as I compress, but nothing is working! This is the first time I've changed my brakes, but everything online looks straight forward enough. Is there anything I could be missing or does it seem that my piston is legit stuck?
View 9 RepliesI had my front brakes replacement a couple of months ago but I noticed that when after making a complete stop & letting the wheels roll, I hear a squeaking sound coming from the brakes. I had this checked by the local shop & was told that the piston is not disengaging with the rotors. Is this accurate or do we just need to lubricate? Also, if the pistons are defective, will this be covered under warranty?
View 2 RepliesBrake pedal was going to the floor. Plenty of fluid in Master Cylinder.
Pulled both front wheels off to find no sign of any leaks anywhere. High and dry all around.
Metal lines look like new the length of the car. No rust, no sign of any leakage. Clean and clear all around (this is a southern car).
Didn't pull the rear tires off, but just by rubber-necking with a flashlight, all dry back there, too.
So I removed the bottom bolt on both front calipers and swung them up out of the way.
Then I started pumping the brakes to see if the pistons moved.
Two rounds of about 6-7 pumps of the pedal, and nothing. No movement.
Third round, shocked to see both pistons came nearly all the way out!!!! In fact, when I touched them, they wobbled. They were hanging by a thread.
So I tried using a C-Clamp and old brake pad combo to try to push the driver's side piston back in.
But the (fairly large) C-Clamp wouldn't open quite enough, and unequal pressure was applied to the face of the piston.
Next thing I knew, the whole thing exploded with the piston falling out, and all the fluid gushing out to the ground.
Should I just pull the passenger side piston off now, too? And let that fluid also gush out? (all this fluid is pretty much original from the factory, so it's old fluid anyway.
Do I just place the piston back into the bore, refill, and bleed? The piston just sits in there loose like that with only the rubber seal holding it in??? Or are these calipers history?
What about the pads and discs? Some of the fluid got on the bottom half of the disc and one of the pads. Just wash it off with brake cleaner and let dry prior to reinstall?
'97 Taurus GL Wagon 3.0L OHV205k miles
Just purchased 2015 Camry LE. While taking delivery, I noticed a subtle piston slap that started shortly after the engine started and completely went away after driving the car for about 10 minutes. Most people would not consider it an issue, but I am an engineer working with large industrial engines all the time so it was a concern. I asked to drive another Camry on the lot and it had the same issue. The service manager came out and said that this slap is normal and all 2012 - 2015 Camry with 2AR-FE engine do this. I bought the car anyway since I loved the overall design, ride quality and the features, but the piston slap keeps bothering me.
2012-2015 Camry equipped with 2AR-FE 2.5L engine? In order to check you have to start the cold engine and wait for the RPMs to drop to around 900 which will take 1-2 min. Put your ear in front of the radiator and listed to the subtle metallic tapping noise of the pistons rocking and slapping the bore walls. The noise will last for about 10 minutes until the pistons expand and close the excess gap between them and the bore.
Ok, so I've had my '16 SE for about 3 weeks. Last night, I noticed the tire pressure was way too high (41lbs in the front and 39lbs in the back). So, I let the car sit overnight, and set all 4 tires to 33lbs this morning.
Ever since I did that, every time I turn the car off, the Average MPG display (on the dash) keeps resetting to 0. I took about 5 trips today, and it keeps happening. The ECO app on the radio shows my previous trips, so I know that the data isn't being lost somewhere, it's just not being displayed anymore. Basically it's acting like I trip MPG system now.
What could cause this, or what setting I should change to fix this? I messed around with it for about an hour, and can't figure it out.
So I recently attempted to change the brakes on my 96 dodge dakota. I followed the instructions in my Chilton manual to do it. The driver side was no real problem and managed to get it done within an hour. Now knowing how to do it I moved to the passenger side. Once I slid the caliper off the rotor I noticed that the pads on this side were nothing but metal but the rotor was fine. I took out the pads but the piston was hyperextended and there was no way to compress it no matter what I did. The piston eventually just started to crack away. So I went to O'Reilly's and bought a refurbished caliper. It looked very similar and fit the bolts. However when I tried to attach the brake line it was at a different angle then its fitting. The brake line is a thin metal tube for the last 6 inches with a square piece of metal at the end where the hollow bolt goes through and then into the caliper. But because of the metal section I cant angle the brake line correctly to get a good seal.
View 6 RepliesMy girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
Just had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
I have a 2012 Hyundai ACCENT 4 door 45K miles. There is grinding noise that I hear when I do a slow brake. At first This grinding noise use to only happen in the morning the first couple of years, it would go away within minutes or less. Now, the grinding noise is almost during every slow brake at a red light etc. It's a grinding horrible noise that seems to be getting worse.
View 2 RepliesI think I might have a mod on my accent I just purchased used. The top brake light blinks a couple times when pressing the brake and then goes on solid. I have seen these in motorcycle and cars a few times. Is this something that came from the factory or is it a mod to the vehicle?
Also I noticed that the rear window sprayer shoots out windshield washer fluid about 20 ft out straight out the back of the vehicle. I guess its an anti tail gater mod.
My '03 3.5 has the driver side rear brake piston stuck. Tried the C clamp but no movement. Short of replacing the entire caliper...
View 9 RepliesI just completed a front brake job on a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan, installing new rotors and pads. Right front rotor and pad installation went perfectly. Left front - I heard a faint "hiss" as I compressed the caliper piston using a c clamp. In addition, as I placed the new inner pad against the caliper/piston, I noticed that the piston had become slightly "uncompressed," meaning it moved back out a little bit on its own. I compressed it again with a c clamp and had to rush to get the caliper back in place with the new pads in place before the piston SLOWLY worked itself back out and I wouldn't be able to fit the caliper around the new rotors and pads. I completed the brake job, pumped the brakes, and took it for a ride - all seems fine. The pedal is not spongy and it does not travel all the way to the floor.
Do I have anything to worry about? This is my 6th brake job in total. This is my first brake job on this vehicle. The slight hiss and the fact that the caliper piston did not stay seated after I compressed it bothers me.
This morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
View 6 RepliesMy brake lights keeps going off and the stop fuse keeps blowing and when it blows the TRAC light turns on and stay on. I try to change all the brake light bulbs and the 15amp fuse that was blown but it blows again what could it be?
View 1 RepliesI have a vague memory that the PiP will start its petrol engine every XXX miles just for a maintenance warm up if it has not been used for that mileage. An engine start will reset that mileage back to zero and start recounting its EV miles until that limit is reached again. What is that limit?
View 19 RepliesWell just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
View 5 RepliesI need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
View 4 RepliesI have this problem of my in dash cluster flickers and dims at the same time? Also the green lights on indicator flickers and disappears? Took it to the Dealer and put in a new multi function switch, but still does the same thing?
View 1 RepliesStarted my 2010 Prius the other day and the traction control, brake light, abs light and a yellow Astrix light came on and wouldn't go off. The car drives and handles just fine, brakes feel normal. I have tried resetting the lights with a trick with a paper clip someone else posted, but it didn't work for me.
View 7 RepliesI live in the mountains an back into my driveway that is on a steep hill. My car has rolled backwards twice now with the parking break engaged. The first time it came to a halt where it flattened out. Last night I had my truck parked behind it and it rolled into our recycling and garbage bins and pinned them between the car and the truck. I have a significant dent below the window on my hatch.
Manual transmission. Parking brake engaged. Car was in neutral. I usually leave my car in first when parking on a hill. I am not sure if it slipped out of gear or I left it in neutral by accident.
2013 accent auto My car rolls noticeably after parking unless the ground is completely flat. Parking brakes prevents it from rolling but I don't use parking brakes every time. Another brake problem I have is thump or clunk noise I get whenever I release a brake from stop.
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