Accent RB (2012+) :: Avg Mpg Dropped From Usual 25 Down To 21 / 22
Dec 1, 2012
Took my car into the dealership today. They're ordering a new steering wheel but they also said that this happens more with women drivers bc of lotions and stuff. I know how chemicals can manipulate materials but I don't use any of smelly scented stuff. I think it's bs. Who cares.
They ran a diagnostic check for the mpg and said its fine. That's all. Then why has my avg mpg dropped from the usual 25 down to 21/22 for the last month??? There is something going on but I can't figure it out. even with the low mpg numbers itself they aren't concerned.
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I have a 2013 Accent GL AT (Canadian spec). I recently had an oil change in which a Fram Xtra Guard was installed. However, when I reached my first hill with the new oil and filter, it sounded like the cars engine noise was different from before. It had become a low humming noise, almost like it was straining and didn't have enough power and would downshift later than usual. I changed the filter back to an OEM and still have the noise there, but not as bad.
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Sometimes when I stand at idle, the engine seems to vibrate more than usual. I looked at the RPM gauge and it didn't move at all, it's at roughly 1000-1100 RPM when it occurs. Is it something I should show to the dealer?
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2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai accent hatchback with 225000km. The first time I drove it for over an hour, 1 trip no stops, the fuel gauge dropped to empty while there was 3/4 of a tank. The 2nd time I drove over an 1 the fuel gauge dropped again and the gas light came on (again around 3/4 of a tank). My mechanic said until it does it consistently he can't diagnose so I let it go.
More recently, driving it to and from work 5 days, plus some extra city driving, I used 1/4 tank the full week. Today I picked up 4 winter tires and bringing them home (approximately the same distance as my work) I used 1/4 tank right there. I understand it is weighed down, but could it really be that much? What is causing the fuel jumps and gauge jumps? I've already had the float replaced.
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I got into an accident early Dec 15 with my 2014 Camry. Most of the damage was body mostly front hood but the radiator had to be replaced. For some reason ever since then my MPG has dropped quite a bit. I used to be able to drive 420 miles on 14 gallons but now I see myself filling up at the 300 mile mark. I recently got the 25k check up and everything was fine minus replacing my air cabin filter at the next checkup.
My driving route/style hasn't changed so I'm at loss.
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I just took advantage of incentives and traded in my 2012 PiP for a 2015. In hilly San Francisco I'm accustomed to between 8 and 9 all-electric miles per full charge. Today was the new PiP's maiden voyage--a six-mile trip that in the old car would leave me with 2.1 to 2.3 EV miles remaining (per the readout.) But the new car actually ran out of electric power just before the trip's conclusion.
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I have noticed that my estimated range after fill ups has dropped after the last three fill ups. I used to get around 520 miles after fill up. The last three have been in the 480 miles range.
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My daughter dropped a dime into the battery exhaust grill (the vents on either side of the back seat).
Do I need to fish it out before the fan kicks in or is there some kind of grill/filter down there?
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My oil temp usually sits around 170-190f . The water temp is always at 200. This past week, I took a 3000km trip to Maine. Great scenery!!!! The water temp would drop to 170 from time to time, Looking at a thermostat change soon, but today it pegged 200f all day, 5hr drive at highway speeds but the oil temp only rose to 150-155. Is there a thermostat in the oil cooler system?
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I just bought a 2010 salvage Prius. I have another 2010 I have been driving for 3 years so I am pretty used to the mileage I can expect under different conditions. When the car is totally warm and I measure the mileage for 15 miles or so I get normal readings of mpg. But with a lot of 2-3 mile trips during the week I am getting about 10 mpg less than usual. I have been too busy to look into it in the last week,
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So, I recently purchased a new HID kit for my car, with a harness and power source from the battery and everything. But the problem is my right light keeps going out. I had trouble when I first installed it so I switched the ballast and it still had the same problem on the same side, so jiggled around with the ground for a little and it worked. Later it went out again and while driving it went back on and for the next two days it worked. It's out again now and I have yet to play around with it.
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I have rpm fluctuation when i put in idle after warming up the engine . I've done cleaning the throttle valve ,change the alternator and change battery.
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Just bought 2012 hyundai accent and not sure if I have air conditioning. The dealer wasn't sure but didn't think so. It has all the dials, heat works, defroster works, circulation button seems to work, but just air blows when I turn the dial to cold. If I have all this stuff, does that mean I have AC and its just not connected or takes forever to start to work (read about this issue on some forums). If I don't have AC would it be easy to install since I do have all this stuff?
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So, I just got home and turned off the ignition. I then accidentally clicked off ECO. When I went to press the button again, it lights up and it does on my dash as well, but once I let go of the button, they are both off. I thought this had something to do with the car being off, so I started it and I still couldn't get ECO to go on.
Am I doing something wrong or is it possible that the button is broken?
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I just bought a 2010 salvage Prius. I have another 2010 I have been driving for 3 years so I am pretty used to the mileage I can expect under different conditions.
When the car is totally warm and I measure the mileage for 15 miles or so I get normal readings of mpg. But with a lot of 2-3 mile trips during the week I am getting about 10mpg less than usual compared to my other 2010.
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My cooling fan races more than it used to. The coolant level appears to be fine. Could it be a faulty sensor and where is it located and is it something I can replace myself? The engine temp gauge reads in the mid range so the system isn't overheating.
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I was pulling out of my driveway (it's quite steep) in 4x4, turned onto the road and heard a clunk.
I then took it out of 4x4 and continued on. I noticed it was vibrating more than usual. I turned out of a friends driveway (not in 4x4) after that and thought I heard another clunk. The vibrations seemed to get a lot worse after that.
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I have a weird sound from my car air condition, i just need to check if all Rb`s have the same sound or just me. When the air condition is on and car RPM between 850 & 1000, A quite VOoOm sound is heard and you can feel some vibration under your feet. when rpm is more than 1000 the sound disappear, the sound comes only when AC is ON. I start investigating the noise and i when i open the hood and put my hands on the pipes Low and high of the AC, i feel this sound and vibration inside the pipes, i tried to keep the pipes a bit away from the body by putting some rubber, the sound and vibration decreased. why such sound appear at low RPM? Every thing in the AC is normal. I went to the dealer service center and they though it was the AC compressor, and change it, but the sound still there.
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I have started noticing a hum or vibration that I can feel in the pedals when I am cruising around 50-60mph. Doesn't matter what gear (automatic trans) I am in, I can feel the gas pedal vibrating slightly at those speeds. Below or above that, it goes away. Any thoughts? I know dealer, dealer, dealer, but wanted to know what you all thought so I can have some direction to lead the mechanic in so they dont tie my car up the whole day.
Don't think it's:
Wheel bearing because I don't hear it all the time.
brakes because I don't feel any vibration at other speeds.
Gear box because I can shift into different gears at different speeds with no sound.
Tires because I just got them rotated and the tread still looks new after 22,000 miles.
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My Accent has 89000km (about 54000 miles) and has been pinging under acceleration...tried higher octane gas with no improvement.
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