I have rpm stalls then comes back every 2 seconds at idle After one hour driving . Whitout any error code and no check engine . I checked all the sensors and even changed alternator and throttle body completely. No I suspect to crankshaft position sensor .
View 4 RepliesMy 99 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 v8 4x4 will not start after 2 to 3 short trips. it starts up fine in the morning when the engine is cold but driving for a while while and I stop somewhere and shut the engine down for a few minutes it will not restart.. after I wait 10 to 15 min it start up ok.. Next when I'm driving on the highway, after 10-20 mins of driving, the engine stalls for 5-10 secs. and fires back up..I inspected all connections and the starter which were ok but I did find that the starter is soaked with oil dripping from the valve covers.. Could the oil be the problem..? Even causing the stalling out on the highway..?
View 2 Replies2014.5 Camry XLE
I've changed the clock for DST, but the navigation system did not fall back an hour. A trip of any length adds an hour. i.e. 30 minutes is shown as an ETA of 90.
I have a 2001 Accent GL 1.6L Automatic.
Yesterday it started acting up on the freeway. I was driving about 50 during traffic hour when it started revving. I got off the freeway and moved to 35mph on surface streets, the revving continued at lower speeds but much worse (4-5k rpms going 10-15mpg). Doesn't seem to do it in idle or park. If i shut the car off it'll drive fine for a while then start acting up but when I was driving, after awhile, it did return to normal.
What could cause the problem? TPS? Transmission? Sensor of some sort?
My Nissan Altima is normally fine but after about 40 minutes to an hour of driving even in cool temperatures the car stops wanting to accelerate much and the RPM needle will jump from 1-2k to 5k almost instantly when applying more gas. I can be at 5k RPMs and barely climb 1 to 2 mph every few seconds in my car. This issue will persist till I turn the car off for a short while. Once The car has cooled down and been idle for a bit the car works fine again for 40 to 60 minutes. I also don't want to take it in because I doubt they'll get the problem to reproduce unless they drive it for up to an hour.
View 10 RepliesThis happens all the time i use my car on a hot sunny day,my car does not have tints, after about an hour of driving my door sidings start to get wet and sticky (just near the windows) it will go away or dry up later when parked on a shaded place....my question is, should i wipe it off when this happens? I tried it last time but it was like wiping off a sticky substance left when you peel of stickers....i think this is normal with IS interior
View 7 RepliesHere's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
I have a 07 accent coupe That is giving me a little bit of trouble. This morning when I started the car, it ran for about a minute and then quietly stalled. No hesitating or sputtering, just turned off as if I turned the ignition off.
So I tried to restart but it won't fire, i can crank it just fine and I have gas, so I'm not sure what could be the problem.
Sometimes though, when I fill up my gas tank. The car will splutter and try to stall for the first 30 seconds. I have to keep the throttle-up to keep it from stalling. But that only happens occasionally when I fill the gas tank.
I have a Suzuki Esteem on which I have recently had following work done from a suzuki dealer on their recommendation.
1) Throttle body repair and Cleaning.
2) Idle air control valve cleaning.
3) New fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs.
4) Engine tuning.
5) New battery.
6) New power steering belt.
PROBLEM: (Only when AC is OFF)
When my car reaches operating temperature the engine stalls out after three seconds at idle.
Suzuki dealer does not seem to know the reason behind this and they want to keep it for a few more days however i think they will just keep replacing parts one after another.
Prius c sometimes at a stop rpm go up for about 15 to 20 sec then back down is this normal.
View 2 RepliesAs the title says, the 2001GMC Sierra 2500 truck has been acting up lately. This usually happens when the truck is in motion, doing about 40 mph or so. It will quit, i have to pull over to the side of the road. And it usually starts right back up. This has been going on ever since I had the fuel pump replaced about 3 months ago or so. It was doing it once every two weeks, then once a week, then once every other day. Then it stranded me at the store before xmas. Right off I thought it is the fuel pump being intermittent, and just getting worse. I am not so sure though.
My mechanic will warranty it, but would rather not have to if its not the problem. He would rather have the truck die and stay dead, and test out things from there. There in lies the problem. The pump works, I can hear it power up, and if the truck stalls, it starts right back up. One more thing. If it does not start immediately, and I don't drain the battery, it will start in an hour or less. It will not just stop working for an extended period of time. There is no check engine light on btw. No codes come up while its on the computer. I don't drive it except in the driveway to plow, for fear of having to have it towed. It works though as i have a really long driveway.
I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
View 3 RepliesI have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it.
View 14 RepliesI have my truck idling in the driveway while doing a coolant flush and it developed a weird idle. It will idle fine for a while then all of a sudden it will idle up a little for about 3 seconds then go back down. It will do this 3-4 times then go back to a regular idle for a while. I got in and watched my SCT X4 to see if anything changes. My actually RPM didn't change and neither did my fuel pressure or anything but my turbo added about 1.5 pounds of boost when it does it. It happens about every 4-5 minutes.
View 11 RepliesShe's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
Have a Hyundai accent 2000 manual. The vehicle inconsistently stalls while driving. One day it will drive all day without stopping. The next it will stall while driving 10 or more times.
I`ll pull over, turn ignition off. Turn the key 1-2 times. It starts. Drive sometimes 5-10 minutes will stall again, sometimes will stall an hour later. Some days not at all.
What I should be checking and how to go about it. Have the car booked in to get it put on the computer, but would rather do it myself especially if its just a sensor that needs replacing.
So, I just got home and turned off the ignition. I then accidentally clicked off ECO. When I went to press the button again, it lights up and it does on my dash as well, but once I let go of the button, they are both off. I thought this had something to do with the car being off, so I started it and I still couldn't get ECO to go on.
Am I doing something wrong or is it possible that the button is broken?
I have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
View 12 RepliesJust got my timing belt replaced and a tune up on my 2005 subaru impreza wagon (80k miles). Car runs great, except that the idle now pulsates from 1000 to 2000 and back every 5 seconds when the blower is on. usual idle is smooth 750 rpm steady with blower off. Confirmed that it is not AC compressor by disconnecting electrically and mechanically (belt). The mechanics are stumped. What the heck happened? This was not an issue before the work.
View 7 RepliesMy car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 Replies