Accent RB (2012+) :: 2013 - Loud AC And Stalling When On
May 21, 2016
I recently bought my accent just last month and now it has some issues. Up until last night, my car and AC was running just fine. I drove to the mall and then I started up my car. I began to drive and seconds later, I heard a loud sound. Almost like a card in the spokes of a bike, but it was the AC. I turned off the AC and decided to look at it when I got home. I got to a stop sign and turned on the AC, just to make sure it was that making the sound. It was, and my car stalled from turning it on. This morning as I was driving to work, again just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, I turned on the AC and my car stalled again. It turns on with no issue after, but I am concerned about the stalling. I am going to check the filters when I am off.
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Ive got a 2013 Accent with 16,000km on it. It has an automatic transmission. The noise is when i pass from R to D, or P to D. It is an intermittent noise, so it does not do it all the time. But when it does, it makes a loud "bang" that can be easily heard and felt in the floor. Ive had it checked by the dealer, but it never does it when its in the shop.
I always let the idle go down before shifting into gear and even if i hold the brake hard to change gears it does it anyway. It doesnt matter if the trans is cold or hot. And no, i never change gears when the car is still rolling, always when i have stopped completely.
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I was driving and heard a loud SNAP and now there is a constant sound of wind like a fan on high.
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I have a 2012 accent, while I drive this loud squealing happens. My car is under warranty but the techs have to hear the noise to do anything.
At 55mph the squealing gets so loud my music can't cover the noise. Around 70mph it goes away (still can hear slightly). When I come to a stop it keeps squeaking for few seconds then stops.
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I have a 2012 Accent with about 83,000km. Back in the summer, I'd noticed an issue with it squealing when I first started driving it after it had been sat overnight or any extended period of time. After 3 trips to the dealership, they finally determined it was the serpentine belt and replaced it which did work. However, now a couple months since that, the noice is back and worse than ever. This is how every morning starts with the car now:
Reverse off the drive, press on breaks and hear a groan as I do so but no squeal. Adjust to 'drive' and accelerate and instantly hear a very high pitched squealing which continues until either a minute or so into driving or I drive faster than 50km/h, whichever comes first.
The level of noise it's making now is becoming unbearable. It's embarrassing and I'm worried something is seriously wrong. Just my luck too, the warranty ran out on the 18th of this month. I could probably catch a recording of the noise if needed.
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Battery died. Got jump start but the guy crossed the jump cables. When positioned the cables correctly , the vehicle started normal but during the drive, heard two loud bangs on the engine; then the car shut down. Towed car to the dealer and they replaced the battery and the master fuse. The dealer rep. told me that the ABS light was still ON. Two days later I took the car from the dealer with The ABS, tire, BRAKE, EPS, skid, and engine lights ON and the steering is hard as well.
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I recently bought a hyundai accent 2013 gls automatic, and I've been noticing something weird; (No touching the pedals) when it gets around 800 rpm the car does a down shift, it slows down and then accelerate a little up to 1700rpm by it self. Is that normal for this model??
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My bad struts/shocks have allowed my tires we wear weird and now I sound like a jacked up truck with mud tires going down the road! I'm going to replace the struts and shocks in my car but do you think I can just keep riding on the tires as they still have a ton of tread on them? I can deal with the noise until they are ready to be changed but was just wondering if that can cause any other issue?
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I purchased a new Accent 2013 in Montreal last year and at first didn't notice that there was only one exterior door lock on the drivers side.
But for the past few weeks I have been having key issues where it gets stuck in the lock for no reason and it has to be pulled really hard to get out. Now with the winter coming I'm kinda getting worried.
If I lock the passenger side and forget to take something out of the car, I have to go around to unlock the doors from the drivers side, go around to take the items and then go back to the drivers door to lock all 4 doors. It's getting frustrating.
Is only one lock a standard these days or only a way to get people to buy remote to unlock the car?
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I have a 2013 accent and have been having and odd issue. Started a few months ago with the driver controls only being able to lower the front passenger window but not raise it. The passenger side control worked fine. Now months later the passenger control has also stopped working. If I move the switch around I can get it to move a little bit, but I really have to sit there and move it a certain way. What could be casuing this??
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I got a 2013 Hyundai Accent se Hatchback, and just recently noticed that when I drive on the highway it kinda sways side to side too often. it happens on the highway, never when driving in the city. I'm guessing its the wind, but when I look around I don't even see trees moving or anything so I dont think the wind is that strong. we also have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra and it does the same thing every now and then, but it's very rare.
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I installed the TurboKits CAI kit a few weeks ago. Installation went smoothly, and the latest kit has a modification to the box that fits our Accent's air snorkel. On cars with automatic transmissions, I had to cut out a notch from the bottom of the box to clear the transmission, but I doubt that this affects the air flow to the filter.
However, I have a big problem with the sound. The transmission often shifts at very low RPMs, and the CAI makes a very loud burble when this occurs. If I shift into a lower gear using the semi-manual mode, then the sound goes away. I realize that CAIs make a louder sound when you put your foot into it, but I find the sound a little over-the-top (especially considering that when the sound comes on, the engine is producing very little power at this part of the power band).
So, it's not really a problem with the CAI itself, more with the car's TCU. Unfortunately, it's too annoying for me, so I'll be reverting back to the original air intake system, and selling the TurboKits CAI.
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Lately almost every morning my brakes have been seized. After releasing the parking brake the car won't budge without a bit of gas and a loud BANG from all four wheels as they become unstuck. And I don't mean a small bang, it sounds like someone whacked the wheel with a sledgehammer. It has been cold, snowy, icy, wet, and very salty here lately, but the car is parked in an underground garage overnight where the temperature is above freezing.
After becoming unstuck the brakes are noisy and very rough. They'll also re-seize at each stoplight, but with just a small bang. This slowly gets better as I use them, until the next time. Is this normal?
I can't imagine it's good for the health of the brakes for this to be happening. I've heard of this happening if a car is left sitting in wet conditions for a couple weeks, but only after 12 hours, and again at each light? I also had the dealer take apart and clean the brakes about 4 months ago.
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Noticed this the other day. While in drive, (didn't do it in park at first) activated the right hand signal. Noticeable buzz. Popped hood and sound appeared to be coming from engine fuse box. Took it to dealer and they have ordered a multi switch that apparently goes in the steering column so I guess the buzz in the fuse box is just a reaction to whatever is failing in the steering column.
On a side note. Took the 2012 elantra ltd in today because we noticed one of the original brake pads (front passenger outer) was a different dimension that the driver side. The pad material extended beyond the rotor braking surface and at ~40k the pad now has a noticeable knub extending on the inside part of the rotor in the groove between the shiny metal rotor and the studs.
Tech first said it was an aftermarket pad but we've never had service done to the brakes, only service at this dealer or at home. Later another tech apparently indicated this is a kia brake pad. How it got on the one side is a mystery! We have wheel locks. The car was bought new from this dealer but was a dealer trade so the only break in possession between the factory and us is the other dealer. Will be interested to see how Hyundai Canada or the district rep respond to this, but the dealer installed new pads (didn't turn the rotors) at their cost cuz they said they can't put it thru warranty.
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I have had my 2013 Accent SE about 6-months. Upon beginning my drive to work this morning, my car's steering wheel was tilting as if it was turning right on it's own and the car was pulling to the right (I park in the same spot at my house and drive down the same street everyday). The car was pulling as if the right front tire was completely flat, but the "low tire pressure" light was not on. OR the car was pulling as if my alignment was completely out-of-wack (I have not hit any potholes in recent weeks). I stopped and checked and upon visual inspection - all tires looked good. But being OCD and loving my car, I checked the tire pressure - all 4 good. I got back in and drove maybe another 10-feet and the problems fixed itself. When I got on a flat, smooth stretch of road I tested the alignment by lightening up off the steering wheel - drove as straight as could be.
One other thing - when I got out of the car to check the tires, I left the car running. The "door open" light on the dashboard came on but there was no door open dinging. I have honestly never paid attention as to if my car has ever dinged when the car is on and the door is open. Does the 2013 Accent SE ding when the door is open and the engine is running?
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So, just bought new se and the engine seems to shake randomly. It's most noticeable while standing. When I say shake, sometimes it feels like the rpms drop to not quite but almost seem to stall. The rpms don't actually drop the needle is steady as can be.
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I have a 2013 Accent GLS and I have to replace the rear bumper cover. Any detailed instructions on how to do this?
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She's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
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I just get my new accent hb 2013 on february, and today while driving to my office the whole control panel starts blinking and fading, as well the front lights icon... for almost 10 secs, but then it suddenly disappears. Its less than 2200 km!
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Bought a 2013, had been in a flood, couldn't see any sign anywhere of water level or damage, had 12,400 miles and noticed engine ping/detonation when engine lugs, have changed to mid grade and that works but every time I go back to 87 octane it starts back up.....also, I have noticed a bog down of the engine when I just barely give it any gas and if I keep the accelerator in that exact same spot, it eventually jumps into like a surge...
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At what low pressure the tire low symbol will turn on? This morning was coldest day of year and it would not go off. Any way to look at each sensor's reading? Car is a 2013 Accent SE.
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