Accent RB (2012+) :: 2013 - Engine Detonation / Bogs And Surges
Apr 2, 2016
Bought a 2013, had been in a flood, couldn't see any sign anywhere of water level or damage, had 12,400 miles and noticed engine ping/detonation when engine lugs, have changed to mid grade and that works but every time I go back to 87 octane it starts back up.....also, I have noticed a bog down of the engine when I just barely give it any gas and if I keep the accelerator in that exact same spot, it eventually jumps into like a surge...
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When I first got my Accent a few weeks a go I thought this car just had unique braking functions with the ABS valve, but after driving it every day for a few weeks I think that perhaps the problem is the way the car downshifts.
Whenever I am braking and the car downshifts to 2nd gear at around 25MPH I feel the engine bog down, almost as if you were downshifting at too high of an RPM. However it only happens if I am braking slowly, when I need to brake harder I don't seem to notice it, either because it doesn't do it or because I can't feel it over the more pronounced forward momentum.
I verified that it does seem to be the engine or transmission, because if I brake with the car in neutral it won't do it. So my question would be is this just a normal function of this car, or should I take it in to be checked out?
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I live in a community with a posted speed limit of 15 mph. I travel a full minute at 15 mph before I exit the community to a city street. My 2013 Accent Hatchback won't "glide" along at 15 mph. It jerks and surges and races and slows down. I've tried using the manual option and keeping it in 1st gear however, when I reach the 1st gear tachometer limit at 15 mph the car "stalls" and the tachometer needle drops out and the car slows to 5 mph.
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So, just bought new se and the engine seems to shake randomly. It's most noticeable while standing. When I say shake, sometimes it feels like the rpms drop to not quite but almost seem to stall. The rpms don't actually drop the needle is steady as can be.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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I recently bought a hyundai accent 2013 gls automatic, and I've been noticing something weird; (No touching the pedals) when it gets around 800 rpm the car does a down shift, it slows down and then accelerate a little up to 1700rpm by it self. Is that normal for this model??
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I recently bought my accent just last month and now it has some issues. Up until last night, my car and AC was running just fine. I drove to the mall and then I started up my car. I began to drive and seconds later, I heard a loud sound. Almost like a card in the spokes of a bike, but it was the AC. I turned off the AC and decided to look at it when I got home. I got to a stop sign and turned on the AC, just to make sure it was that making the sound. It was, and my car stalled from turning it on. This morning as I was driving to work, again just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, I turned on the AC and my car stalled again. It turns on with no issue after, but I am concerned about the stalling. I am going to check the filters when I am off.
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I purchased a new Accent 2013 in Montreal last year and at first didn't notice that there was only one exterior door lock on the drivers side.
But for the past few weeks I have been having key issues where it gets stuck in the lock for no reason and it has to be pulled really hard to get out. Now with the winter coming I'm kinda getting worried.
If I lock the passenger side and forget to take something out of the car, I have to go around to unlock the doors from the drivers side, go around to take the items and then go back to the drivers door to lock all 4 doors. It's getting frustrating.
Is only one lock a standard these days or only a way to get people to buy remote to unlock the car?
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I have a 2013 accent and have been having and odd issue. Started a few months ago with the driver controls only being able to lower the front passenger window but not raise it. The passenger side control worked fine. Now months later the passenger control has also stopped working. If I move the switch around I can get it to move a little bit, but I really have to sit there and move it a certain way. What could be casuing this??
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I got a 2013 Hyundai Accent se Hatchback, and just recently noticed that when I drive on the highway it kinda sways side to side too often. it happens on the highway, never when driving in the city. I'm guessing its the wind, but when I look around I don't even see trees moving or anything so I dont think the wind is that strong. we also have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra and it does the same thing every now and then, but it's very rare.
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Noticed this the other day. While in drive, (didn't do it in park at first) activated the right hand signal. Noticeable buzz. Popped hood and sound appeared to be coming from engine fuse box. Took it to dealer and they have ordered a multi switch that apparently goes in the steering column so I guess the buzz in the fuse box is just a reaction to whatever is failing in the steering column.
On a side note. Took the 2012 elantra ltd in today because we noticed one of the original brake pads (front passenger outer) was a different dimension that the driver side. The pad material extended beyond the rotor braking surface and at ~40k the pad now has a noticeable knub extending on the inside part of the rotor in the groove between the shiny metal rotor and the studs.
Tech first said it was an aftermarket pad but we've never had service done to the brakes, only service at this dealer or at home. Later another tech apparently indicated this is a kia brake pad. How it got on the one side is a mystery! We have wheel locks. The car was bought new from this dealer but was a dealer trade so the only break in possession between the factory and us is the other dealer. Will be interested to see how Hyundai Canada or the district rep respond to this, but the dealer installed new pads (didn't turn the rotors) at their cost cuz they said they can't put it thru warranty.
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I have had my 2013 Accent SE about 6-months. Upon beginning my drive to work this morning, my car's steering wheel was tilting as if it was turning right on it's own and the car was pulling to the right (I park in the same spot at my house and drive down the same street everyday). The car was pulling as if the right front tire was completely flat, but the "low tire pressure" light was not on. OR the car was pulling as if my alignment was completely out-of-wack (I have not hit any potholes in recent weeks). I stopped and checked and upon visual inspection - all tires looked good. But being OCD and loving my car, I checked the tire pressure - all 4 good. I got back in and drove maybe another 10-feet and the problems fixed itself. When I got on a flat, smooth stretch of road I tested the alignment by lightening up off the steering wheel - drove as straight as could be.
One other thing - when I got out of the car to check the tires, I left the car running. The "door open" light on the dashboard came on but there was no door open dinging. I have honestly never paid attention as to if my car has ever dinged when the car is on and the door is open. Does the 2013 Accent SE ding when the door is open and the engine is running?
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Ive got a 2013 Accent with 16,000km on it. It has an automatic transmission. The noise is when i pass from R to D, or P to D. It is an intermittent noise, so it does not do it all the time. But when it does, it makes a loud "bang" that can be easily heard and felt in the floor. Ive had it checked by the dealer, but it never does it when its in the shop.
I always let the idle go down before shifting into gear and even if i hold the brake hard to change gears it does it anyway. It doesnt matter if the trans is cold or hot. And no, i never change gears when the car is still rolling, always when i have stopped completely.
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I have a 2013 Accent GLS and I have to replace the rear bumper cover. Any detailed instructions on how to do this?
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She's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
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I just get my new accent hb 2013 on february, and today while driving to my office the whole control panel starts blinking and fading, as well the front lights icon... for almost 10 secs, but then it suddenly disappears. Its less than 2200 km!
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At what low pressure the tire low symbol will turn on? This morning was coldest day of year and it would not go off. Any way to look at each sensor's reading? Car is a 2013 Accent SE.
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My 2013 Accent seems to be shredding the front inside wheelwell liner. I have to get both of them replaced. I noticed this had already happened when I bought the car, but since I didn't hear any noise during the "spirited" test drive, I figured who cares?
I was wrong. They rub whenever I go over a slight bump. The tire size is OEM. I am assuming it's happening because they are already shredded and loose.
Is this a common problem with the Accent (of course, if it happens with aftermarket larger rims or tires I get it)...
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Trnasmission problems? Plug came off lost fluid. transmission doesn't work.
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In most other manual tranny cars that I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Not my accent. is it possible to adjust the clutch pedal so that engagement isn't so far away from the floor? it pretty much fully engages at the near top of the pedal.
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I have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
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