Accent RB (2012+) :: 2013 - Buzz When Right Signal Activated
Nov 14, 2013
Noticed this the other day. While in drive, (didn't do it in park at first) activated the right hand signal. Noticeable buzz. Popped hood and sound appeared to be coming from engine fuse box. Took it to dealer and they have ordered a multi switch that apparently goes in the steering column so I guess the buzz in the fuse box is just a reaction to whatever is failing in the steering column.
On a side note. Took the 2012 elantra ltd in today because we noticed one of the original brake pads (front passenger outer) was a different dimension that the driver side. The pad material extended beyond the rotor braking surface and at ~40k the pad now has a noticeable knub extending on the inside part of the rotor in the groove between the shiny metal rotor and the studs.
Tech first said it was an aftermarket pad but we've never had service done to the brakes, only service at this dealer or at home. Later another tech apparently indicated this is a kia brake pad. How it got on the one side is a mystery! We have wheel locks. The car was bought new from this dealer but was a dealer trade so the only break in possession between the factory and us is the other dealer. Will be interested to see how Hyundai Canada or the district rep respond to this, but the dealer installed new pads (didn't turn the rotors) at their cost cuz they said they can't put it thru warranty.
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I need to know the Location of the turn signal relay, my left front bilnker is super dim, and the rear left blinker is normal brightness as well as they blink rapidly. I've replaced both front and back bulbs as well as the flasher and turn signal fuses, so I am assuming the last and final one is the turn signal relay.
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My wife owns a 2013 Camry XLE Hybrid. The map lights do not come on when the remote is activated or either front door is opened or closed. the owners manual says it is an option that can be programmed at the dealership. when I took her car in for its first 5,000 mile check up the service advisor said both he and the technician tried to do it and looked it up to see where it would show them how but they were not successful. Is this something the dealer can program in?
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My 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
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I have 2012 Prius that developed weird issue with turn signal. Every time turn signal is activated both front turn signals flashes and both rear turn signals flashes but one is very dimmed so I haven't noticed it is on until I pulled the bulb out.
So far, I took it to dealership and they replaced headlight switch which resulted in no change in condition. They also pin check wiring from switches to control modules, ohm tested ok. Since I am out of warranty they don't want to do anything unless I agree with extended diagnostics of 10+ hours of labor.
I am going to get some equipment (multimeter, scope) and do some voltage measurement to try to figure out what is going on. I don't know where the flasher and relays are located on Prius. Also looking for vschematic of the circuit to troubleshoot.
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My front left turn signal was hyper flashing. I replaced all four bulbs to no avail. Just to satisfy my curiosity I switched the bulb holder from left to right sides. The hyper flash followed to the right side. Turns out that the bulb holder shorted out. I had it replaced under warranty yesterday.
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I have a unique problem with my newly acquired 71 F250. The left brake does illuminate when the brake is pressed but when the right turn signal if activated the left brake light does come on. The left flasher light also does not work. All other rear ligh function are normal. I am assuming I have a short or a wiring issue just wanted to know if there was any common item that might be know about this topic. The bulbs are all new. The reverse lights do not work either but pretty for sure its unrelated.
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I recently bought a hyundai accent 2013 gls automatic, and I've been noticing something weird; (No touching the pedals) when it gets around 800 rpm the car does a down shift, it slows down and then accelerate a little up to 1700rpm by it self. Is that normal for this model??
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I recently bought my accent just last month and now it has some issues. Up until last night, my car and AC was running just fine. I drove to the mall and then I started up my car. I began to drive and seconds later, I heard a loud sound. Almost like a card in the spokes of a bike, but it was the AC. I turned off the AC and decided to look at it when I got home. I got to a stop sign and turned on the AC, just to make sure it was that making the sound. It was, and my car stalled from turning it on. This morning as I was driving to work, again just to make sure it wasn't a fluke, I turned on the AC and my car stalled again. It turns on with no issue after, but I am concerned about the stalling. I am going to check the filters when I am off.
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I purchased a new Accent 2013 in Montreal last year and at first didn't notice that there was only one exterior door lock on the drivers side.
But for the past few weeks I have been having key issues where it gets stuck in the lock for no reason and it has to be pulled really hard to get out. Now with the winter coming I'm kinda getting worried.
If I lock the passenger side and forget to take something out of the car, I have to go around to unlock the doors from the drivers side, go around to take the items and then go back to the drivers door to lock all 4 doors. It's getting frustrating.
Is only one lock a standard these days or only a way to get people to buy remote to unlock the car?
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I have a 2013 accent and have been having and odd issue. Started a few months ago with the driver controls only being able to lower the front passenger window but not raise it. The passenger side control worked fine. Now months later the passenger control has also stopped working. If I move the switch around I can get it to move a little bit, but I really have to sit there and move it a certain way. What could be casuing this??
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I got a 2013 Hyundai Accent se Hatchback, and just recently noticed that when I drive on the highway it kinda sways side to side too often. it happens on the highway, never when driving in the city. I'm guessing its the wind, but when I look around I don't even see trees moving or anything so I dont think the wind is that strong. we also have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra and it does the same thing every now and then, but it's very rare.
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I have had my 2013 Accent SE about 6-months. Upon beginning my drive to work this morning, my car's steering wheel was tilting as if it was turning right on it's own and the car was pulling to the right (I park in the same spot at my house and drive down the same street everyday). The car was pulling as if the right front tire was completely flat, but the "low tire pressure" light was not on. OR the car was pulling as if my alignment was completely out-of-wack (I have not hit any potholes in recent weeks). I stopped and checked and upon visual inspection - all tires looked good. But being OCD and loving my car, I checked the tire pressure - all 4 good. I got back in and drove maybe another 10-feet and the problems fixed itself. When I got on a flat, smooth stretch of road I tested the alignment by lightening up off the steering wheel - drove as straight as could be.
One other thing - when I got out of the car to check the tires, I left the car running. The "door open" light on the dashboard came on but there was no door open dinging. I have honestly never paid attention as to if my car has ever dinged when the car is on and the door is open. Does the 2013 Accent SE ding when the door is open and the engine is running?
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So, just bought new se and the engine seems to shake randomly. It's most noticeable while standing. When I say shake, sometimes it feels like the rpms drop to not quite but almost seem to stall. The rpms don't actually drop the needle is steady as can be.
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Ive got a 2013 Accent with 16,000km on it. It has an automatic transmission. The noise is when i pass from R to D, or P to D. It is an intermittent noise, so it does not do it all the time. But when it does, it makes a loud "bang" that can be easily heard and felt in the floor. Ive had it checked by the dealer, but it never does it when its in the shop.
I always let the idle go down before shifting into gear and even if i hold the brake hard to change gears it does it anyway. It doesnt matter if the trans is cold or hot. And no, i never change gears when the car is still rolling, always when i have stopped completely.
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I have a 2013 Accent GLS and I have to replace the rear bumper cover. Any detailed instructions on how to do this?
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She's got a 2013 RB GLS.
In very cold weather, we're talking around -15c (5f) or colder the car has serious trouble going into first gear or any gear.
The car starts fine, we even have let it warm up so the engine temp is fully warmed up.
As soon as we put the car into first and release the clutch, the car immediately stalls. It's also difficult to get into first gear, as it's locked out and takes repeated attempts to get into first, just to have it stall when the clutch is released.
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I just get my new accent hb 2013 on february, and today while driving to my office the whole control panel starts blinking and fading, as well the front lights icon... for almost 10 secs, but then it suddenly disappears. Its less than 2200 km!
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Bought a 2013, had been in a flood, couldn't see any sign anywhere of water level or damage, had 12,400 miles and noticed engine ping/detonation when engine lugs, have changed to mid grade and that works but every time I go back to 87 octane it starts back up.....also, I have noticed a bog down of the engine when I just barely give it any gas and if I keep the accelerator in that exact same spot, it eventually jumps into like a surge...
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At what low pressure the tire low symbol will turn on? This morning was coldest day of year and it would not go off. Any way to look at each sensor's reading? Car is a 2013 Accent SE.
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My 2013 Accent seems to be shredding the front inside wheelwell liner. I have to get both of them replaced. I noticed this had already happened when I bought the car, but since I didn't hear any noise during the "spirited" test drive, I figured who cares?
I was wrong. They rub whenever I go over a slight bump. The tire size is OEM. I am assuming it's happening because they are already shredded and loose.
Is this a common problem with the Accent (of course, if it happens with aftermarket larger rims or tires I get it)...
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