I might buy a 2013 Accent tomorrow, but the only big question remaining is the ticking sound coming from the engine when I pop the hood.
When I hear ticking I think of valve issues, but is a ticking sound totally normal for that engine? Is it okay or should I be worried?
I have a 2002 Accent that has this clicking sound coming from what sounds to be the left hand side under the hood. The click sounds like two marbles colliding. The car runs ok otherwise, but I would like to know about that sound.
I took a video, but its kind of hard to hear it. But if you listen close enough, you can hear it.
2002 Hyundai Accent click noise in engine - YouTube ...
I have an 2012 Accent that is sitting at 35k miles. I just got the 30,000 service done and a few days after I started to hear this ticking sound along with a squeak. The car can be idle or moving, squeak still there. It's sporadic though. Sometimes I can go 20-30 miles without hearing it and then all of a sudden I start hearing the ticking squeak. It sounds like its coming below the front passenger side of the car. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going, it's a ticking squeak that just comes and goes, but when it comes, it usually sticks around until I turn the car off and let it cool down. If i start the car right after, the squeaking comes back, but if I let the car cool down (overnight, for example), the squeak goes away until I drive 20-30 miles. I commute to work about 40 miles each way (80 miles total) every day so I can definitely hear it and it's bothersome.
View 5 Replies2011 Elantra GL.
Recently, we noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood (the rate of "ticking" was proportional to the engine speed). We took the vehicle in to the local Hyundai dealership and didn't hear anything from them until 6 hours later. The news was interesting; they were going to perform a full engine replacement after consulting with Hyundai Canada. In my experience, a resolution of this large of a magnitude usually takes weeks of kicking and screaming for any large corporation to comply, however it seems like a pretty hasty conclusion, indicating to me that Hyundai might be already aware of such an issue...
So here is my question. We requested photos from the dealership, and they were able to send two pictures of one of the camshafts (not sure if it's the intake or exhaust cams), but the only thing that I could notice was some slight abrasion/wear; certainly not enough for me to ever come to the conclusion that a full engine swap was necessary. I've attached the pictures.
MY Ls460 2010 AWD is making annoying ticking noise since I bought it 2 months ago ( 76k milage ) , it seems that the sound is mainly coming under the hood on right front fender side .
View 6 Repliesas the title says, my 2010 accent is at 81,000KM and i hear a ticking sound? is it the timing belt? when driving i dont hear any ticking but once stopped or idling i hear ticking and it never stops til i accelerate.
If it is timing belt, does this mean time for replacement? or what could it be?
I've noticed lately that my mileage and performance of my 2012 GLS has gone down. I can hear a "clicking" sound from the right side of the motor when the engine is slightly under load almost like a cam shaft that's operating without oil. I've done all the obvious things like check fluid levels and the such. My car has about 130,000km or 80000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesWhen you start the engine on my 04 hyundai accent something under the hood is making a ticking sound. Seems if you run the engine awhile the ticking decreases. What this is?
View 5 RepliesTwo weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
I took my car in for an oil change and they said I should get the fuel injector and upper intake manifold and valve cleaning treatment. When I picked up the car I noticed a rattle or low pitched ticking sound coming from under the hood. The car has an automatic transmission and the noise frequency increases and decreases with the rpm's. It only happens with the car in "drive". For the seasoned followers, it sounds like the sound we got from fastening baseball cards onto our bike frames to make noise as the wheels turned - just describing the sound. When I took it back to the Mini dealership in Phoenix (who shall remain anonymous), they said I needed a new transmission.
View 4 RepliesRelay-clicking sound coming from under the hood? at low speed in transition from brake to accelerator.
View 3 RepliesWent to dealer today for rattling noise which appeared to be coming from bottom of engine on passenger side. Dealer diagnosed bad a/c compressor and had to order. This noise has been going on for past week and noise appeared with and without a/c on and always at "idle" speed. Noise would go from barely audible to very noisy and loudest with a/c on. If I turned a/c off, noise would diminish immediately; however, still audible with a/c on. Car only has 2,950 miles and a/c works fine, other than the rattling noise at times.
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased an 08 ls 460 and started noticing the infamous clicking sound coming from the ABS brake actuator under the hood. A $3000plus fix that is not in the budget nor will it ever be!..After doing some research trying to figure out what the actuator does i stumble across this Lexus technician PDF ...
..It clearly states on page 2 that "If a Toyota ABS system malfuctions, normal braking will not be affected!...My worry has never been the sound it makes,.. but that of me not being able to brake when needed!!...
[URL]...
I have a 2005 gen 2 Prius, 106k miles. Recently in Florida, we had a heavy rainstorm, and I happened to drive it through a flash flooded road. Water was deep enough to reach my headlights. I was out within 10 seconds, then had my car towed. There was a clicking sound and white smoke (steam?) coming from under the hood. The car would start, and I could drive it if I wanted to. After talking to a mechanic, he said to let it sit for 30 minutes with the engine on. Like magic, it started to work like normal, check engine light went away.
Drove fine for 2 days, then the check engine light came back on. Had the codes read at autozone: P0103, and P0031. One day later, my car stalled out while I was driving, and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Red triangle, yellow exclamation, brake, abs, "problem" on mfd, etc. This site has saved me before, so I came on and thought it could be the MAF sensor. I cleaned it with MAF cleaner, but no luck. I order a new sensor, still no luck. My car stalls out seconds after starting it up. I cleaned my throttle body, still nothing.
Had this happen to me a few times now. Driving down the highway (120kph) in 5th, revving around 3,000 or so and whenever I hit a hill and come onto the gas pedal, I hear a ticking sound coming from up front. The harder I press on the gas - the louder it gets and vice versa.
Only happens in 5th and only under load. Scanned for codes - nothing, looked under the hood - looks normal. Timing belt was done around 56,000km, car has about 67,000km now and is in fantastic shape otherwise.
Spark plugs are still original and I have a new set waiting to go in, drive belts were replaced back in the spring but the tension is correct and all pulleys were checked okay at the time.
While i'm driving the engine I think will shake or jump for a while then stop. Or when i'm at a red light and stopped.
View 4 RepliesI have an 07 Camry with an I4 engine and there are times when I am driving with the two front windows down and I hear a ticking/clicking noise coming from the engine as if the engine is brittle.
View 12 RepliesSo my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
View 5 RepliesI need to locate an unwanted sound from my engine compartment. I am driving a Ford Focus 1.6 petrol engine/zetec (2000), mileage:166 000 km. It's best described as a clicking or ticking sound which is quite distinct. The sound seems to follow the "speed" of the engine.
Most likely the sound is coming from the drivebelt, and maybe from one of the tensioners which the belt is running on.
It's a visible wobble on one of the wheels but I am not sure if this is the case. It does not seem like the sound is originating from the engine itself but I am not 100% sure.
I attached a sound .wav file : ford.wav 1.03MB
I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
View 3 RepliesOver the past few weeks, I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the right rear brake when they are moderately applied when stopping. Doesnt seem to happen under light braking. I figured something in there must have gotten loose so I got to taking the drum off to inspect and clean the insides, or see if anything was broken. Everything seemed to be in order, inside of the drum looks fine as do the shoes, Nothing is really jumping out at me as a cause to this noise. I hit the brakes with the shop vac to suck out any brake dust I could get.
Then, with the drum off, I had my fiance apply the brakes a few times, and the parking brake, just so I could see if something in there was not operating as it should. Heh. I dont think you are supposed to do that with the drum off. The shoe adjuster fell off the shoes (#2 below) So I had to get that back in place and I am pretty sure I have it in right. I go to put the drum back on, and the pads are now too far apart and it wont go back on.
So, I decide to try opening the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder to see if I can get the pads to move in at all. it drips but I cant get the pads to budge. Then I shortened up the shoe adjuster all the way so I could get the drum back on.
Now my parking brake lever, I have to pull it waaay up to even get the parking brake to engage. I figure I have to go back and crank that adjuster out some so the shoes engage sooner. Also, I probably got air in the brake line when I opened the bleeder, so I have to bleed the brakes for real.