Accent RB (2012+) :: 1.6L GDI Engine Rattle / Knock And Buzz Under Load
Jan 3, 2013
My 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
View 38 RepliesMy 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
View 38 RepliesWe've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
There was a TSB for 2AR engine, Engine Knock/Rattle Noise at Cold Startup. My question is for those I4 camry owner, do you have these rattle sound when you start your vehicle at cold? I am not sure if mines have the same issue, but pretty sure is I can't find any differences between mine and this clip:
You Tube
So should I take it to the dealer? Or it's normal?
[URL] .....
Experienced this (Loud engine knock or rattle noise) regarding the service bulletin (T-SB-0010-12)? If so, did you take your vehicle in for service?
View 19 RepliesI've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
View 2 RepliesI've noticed lately that my mileage and performance of my 2012 GLS has gone down. I can hear a "clicking" sound from the right side of the motor when the engine is slightly under load almost like a cam shaft that's operating without oil. I've done all the obvious things like check fluid levels and the such. My car has about 130,000km or 80000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2014 Camry SE with about 30k miles on it. Recently, I notice 2 rattles.
1) When I turn on my car, I hear a rattle/buzz sound for about 10 seconds sounds like its coming from the dash from my passenger side, then the rattle/buzz goes away.
2) There is a constant rattling noise the is coming from my driver side dashboard. I do not hear it on smooth roads but once I go through bumps or cracks on the road the rattle is noticeable and annoying. Sounds like its from the speaker by the windshield but i really cannot tell as i am trying to focus on the road. Maybe its something loose?
When ever I hit a bump, the front passenger side around the front wheel area rattles but doesn't when i brake, could that be covered under the 10 yr? Our car only has around 36,000 miles on it .
View 1 RepliesNoticed this the other day. While in drive, (didn't do it in park at first) activated the right hand signal. Noticeable buzz. Popped hood and sound appeared to be coming from engine fuse box. Took it to dealer and they have ordered a multi switch that apparently goes in the steering column so I guess the buzz in the fuse box is just a reaction to whatever is failing in the steering column.
On a side note. Took the 2012 elantra ltd in today because we noticed one of the original brake pads (front passenger outer) was a different dimension that the driver side. The pad material extended beyond the rotor braking surface and at ~40k the pad now has a noticeable knub extending on the inside part of the rotor in the groove between the shiny metal rotor and the studs.
Tech first said it was an aftermarket pad but we've never had service done to the brakes, only service at this dealer or at home. Later another tech apparently indicated this is a kia brake pad. How it got on the one side is a mystery! We have wheel locks. The car was bought new from this dealer but was a dealer trade so the only break in possession between the factory and us is the other dealer. Will be interested to see how Hyundai Canada or the district rep respond to this, but the dealer installed new pads (didn't turn the rotors) at their cost cuz they said they can't put it thru warranty.
My '03 gives a rattle sound under load/acceleration conditions. This does not happen during the warm up period, so it appears that the engine runs lean under acceleration. There is no check engine light on for this. Approx 172k KM, (100k miles). The noise appears worse when it is hot/humid outside. I have run a can of Seafoam through it (half in the crankcase, half in the fuel line), and that doesn't seem to have worked. Therefore, I don't think that it is the injectors. Possibly fuel filter (still original)? Any easy way to test?
View 8 RepliesI have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 RepliesI cannot find the location of the knock sensor in my 2012 Accent. I just replaced the radiator and had everything off up front unobstructed and couldn't find it. Looked in back, sides, but am completely stumped. I have found information on earlier models but not 2012+.
View 37 RepliesThis is a accent 2015 Sr poor performance under load and when I have passengers. This car is 1 month old. 1.6 lt.
View 4 Replies2012 Hyundai Accent. I am getting a po326 code. Wondering if it may be a faulty knock sensor. And po463 fuel level sensor code when I fill up with gas.
View 2 RepliesNew to the hyundai world. My belt is squealing under low rpm load. I want to change it out but I don't see how to? I am mechanical I just don't see a tensioner. How would i go about changing it?
View 1 RepliesI am hearing a quiet knock from my 2013 accent, especially when accelerating or going uphill on low RPM. I am getting about 34 MPG after burning a tank of regular gas (87 octane rating) on my commute which is about 2/3rds 50-70mph freeway and 1/3rd stop and go traffic. I usually get more MPG than what the EPA rating is, so that number seems a little bit low to me, but I just got the car used, so I don't know what's "Normal" for it. Idle is pretty quiet though.
I would give a video where you can hear it, but honestly it is pretty hard to hear from inside the car. I generally have to be near a wall with the windows down or something to be able to hear it clearly.
2012 Accent 1.6L GDI Engine Rattle/Knock/Buzz
Also, there are no lights showing on the dashboard besides the ECO light since I have been running the car in that mode. Is it possible that there could be codes that might give more information even though nothing is showing on the dashboard?
I've noticed on my 2013 LE that after backing out of my driveway, I put it in D and after about 4 seconds, I get a deep "buzz" from the engine compartment that lasts only 1 second. Is this normal? Is it part of the torque converter or transmission?
I don't notice anything unusual on the shifting action and this happens both in winter and summer. There are no issues with the transmission that I can tell.
I've had this noise on my 92 GT since I bought the car and it hasn't got any worse but I still am wondering what it is in case it's something serious. I hear a rattle/clatter coming from the engine or thereabouts, and it only happens under load (doesn't have to be heavy load, but I can't hear it in neutral or when the clutch is disengaged). It only happens above around 3000 rpm and the frequency of the rattle corresponds to the engine rpm. It's difficult to pinpoint the location of it because it only happens under load. Anyway, I made a short video of it and uploaded it to YouTube....
View 8 RepliesSo I have searched about engine rattle/knock and I have found lots of results for cold starts but I haven't found it for the issue that I am having. I have a 2010 and anytime the battery is real low, around 2 bars and the ICE fires up to charge it, any time I give it a little throttle input, I get heavy valve rattling. It doesn't matter if its cold or hot, it does it as long as the battery is low. I never get this noise when battery is charged up, only when low. I have a link to the video below and you can see once I give it some input, it starts to sound like an old diesel tractor. Prius has close to 200K on the odometer and all my maintenance is up to date. Please turn the speakers up but the noise is right at 5 seconds in or so.
View 13 RepliesI own a 2002 Camry XLE 4-cylinder with about 95,000 miles which is in excellent condition and well-maintained. Recently I began to hear a rattle, tapping or knocking sound apparently from the passenger side of the engine compartment (passengers agree with apparent location). It almost sounds like engine knocking, but the times it happens seem to rule that out. It could be some metal vibrating against something, but I can't hear it when I'm under the hood, and nothing appears loose. I've taken it to my trusted independent mechanic, but he couldn't duplicate the sound driving for 15-20 minutes on the freeway or see anything wrong when put on a lift. The sound doesn't occur all the time, of course; that'd be too easy.
The noise begins:
-after I've been driving 15 minutes or more
-after the car gets above 45-50 MPH, but when the noise finally begins, it will then occur down to as low as 30 MPH.
Last weekend I drove 1000 miles roundtrip on the freeway at 65-80 MPH; it didn't begin for 30 minutes, but continued most of the way to my destination (5.5 more hours), though it did seem to stop a few times. This week, my 20 minute drive to work, which has about 10 minutes on the freeway at 65, has not caused the noise to happen once.
Characteristics of the problem:
-the noise is not related to RPM; once it begins, it is about the same frequency and volume at 30 MPH as at 80 MPH
-it doesn't occur when in park or neutral and idling, even if the engine is revved, and even if the noise was just occurring on the freeway moments before
-it doesn't change when running over rough pavement or in turns
-it doesn't change when regular gas is replaced with premium (tried this last week to rule out engine knock, though the lack of RPM affecting it probably ruled that out already).
So it seems like it may be related to the speed of the car and perhaps the temperature of the engine or compartment. The hood latch appears to be holding tight with no play, the strut mounts were replaced 10K ago, and the wheel bearings check out fine.
Today I drove my 2006 G2 Prius with 59,000 miles to the park and had the windows down. I climbed a hill for a good while that had the engine under load and there was a concrete wall beside me, and I could hear a very very faint metallic-like rattle. I mentioned it to my partner who listened and said he couldn't even hear it, so maybe it is just me.
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