Accent MC (2006-11) :: When Stopped At Red Light Car Just Turned Off
Feb 20, 2012
So, yesterday, when I stopped at red light, my car just turned off. I tried to turn it on, but I couldn't. I kept trying, and after 30th try it turned on. I had this same problem month ago, but it disappeared until now. I can turn it on by pushing when it happens. Is it fuel pump? Or some sensor?
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2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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My car 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 litre's throttle pedal stopped responding and the check engine light turned on I scanned the codes came back bad TPS and Pedal Position Sensor so I changed both disconnected the positive battery terminal but still no throughout pedal response and I'm getting P2106, P1295, P0638 and pending codes P0222 and P2135. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do.
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Whenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
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It is a bit 'of time that my engine have some loss of power with bumps that is not much noticeable and, for now, only just annoying while driving. But lately it has happened that, especially with the AC turned on, the engine dies during gear shift. I noticed that when this happens, the engine rpms drops more fast than normal, causing rough idle for 3-4 seconds (it go down to ~4-500 rpm) and subsequent automatic acceleration from the ecu to ~1200 rpm to settle again to the normal idle (~700 rpm). When this happens if the AC is on, sometimes the engine dies.
I checked the idle control valve and it work good and it's clean. The spark plugs have less than 5000 km, spark wire are good and also coils are in line with the reference values, Primary Coil 0.87 Ω 10% at 20 C (68 F), Secondary Coil 13.0 kΩ 15% at 20 C (68 F) (I don't have the coil on plug but external coil version, like this: [URL] ....)
The only thing a bit 'strange that I noticed is that the throttle position sensor has a strange range when i check it with an obd2 scanner. The idle % reported is 8,7% and at full throttle is 87,5%. I never removed or changed this sensor. If I remember correctly once I unplugged its connector, but the engine was turned off. Is this the normal range??? There is some reset procedure for this sensor?
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I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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My wife recently bought an automatic 2007 Accent. And I'm in charge of fixing some issues, then of course eventually upgrading some parts.
Now here's the first issue. I notice this strange sound like something is loose and rattling coming from the driver side not sure if it's from the inside or under the hood.
Only happens when the car is stopped, brake pressed, and in Drive. Put the car in reverse, park, neutral, no sound. Also no sound when in D but only when the handbrake is engaged and the brake pedal is depressed.
The car runs smooth, tranny shifts good, sluggish acceleration though. I drive a 2.4L turbo car so maybe this is just normal for the 1.6 Accent.
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I decided to reset my Bluetooth module under my partner seat to listen to my Pandora and found this broken part.... It connects to .....
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I was driving my Accent yesterday when suddenly it shuttered and stopped accelerating, it was still on because my RPM gauge would move when I hit the gas, when I went to pull over it was very difficult almost as if my power steering was not working. Now that it is off it will not start, it cranks but will not turn over. We tried a new battery, but that did not work. What it most likely is, I have 109k miles on it.
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My 2007 Accent just quit running setting in traffic. Checked fuel pump fuses and relay, all ok. What else could it be? Has 100,000 miles on it. Just turned over yesterday.
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My friend has a 2007 accent with a manual transmission they said that they were driving and the transmission stopped shifting gears. The clutch pedal still has pressure so I don't think it is a master or slave cylinder issue. They freaked out and turned off the car and now the car will not start up again. Have any of you experienced anything like this before or know on this car where to start looking? I think the issue with not being able to switch gears could be a pressure plate issue but this would not cause the car not to start.
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Suddenly my brake lights quit. Press the brake and nothing. Turn on the headlights and the rear lights turn on. Press the brake and no change. It's like I am not pressing the brake. What are the first things I should check?
2008 Accent GLS 66,000 miles
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Have an Accent 2006 manual drive. Had this problem 3 times after considerable gaps.
First time, driving normally during the day, stopped for fuel. Switched off ignition, filled up, then suddenly did not start. Turned over but did not start. About after 3 minutes of trying (sometimes continuously and sometimes keeping a short break), started normally and I was off. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing. Did not mention to the service center during regular servicing as thought it was a one off incident.
Second time, several months after first incident, a warm and sunny day, went for a pollution test. Parked to wait. Was called for the test. Started and went over, completed and parked again to wait for the certificate. Got it in about 15 minutes. Then again, turned over normally but did not start. This time, battery died after several tries. So I had some people push and it started first time and I carried on. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Third time, about 2 months from the second incident, was driving normally in the early evening with no issues during the morning/day. Slowed down at a pothole in the road, and the engine just died. Turned over normally but did not start despite several tries. So while preserving the battery, I had some people push the car confident as in the second time that the car would start. But did not even after several tries. So while pondering what to do at the side of the road, after about 10 minutes, gave it another shot. Turned over and started normally on first try as if nothing had happened. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Has been about a month since, no problems. Just takes a wee bit longer than usual to start.
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I'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
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I have the base model GLS, but I put fogs in and hard wired them to the battery. They've been on for about 2 years now, and yesterday I went to turn my switch on under my dash and they didn't work. Fuse is fine, wires are fine, and the bulbs look fine. I'm still thinking its the bulbs though because the other day I put my header back on and I think the bulbs hit floor and kinda bent from the contact, so I'm thinking that might be it.
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Today I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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Got a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
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I love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
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My taillights, reverse lights and brake lights all stopped working! What the problem is. The fuses are fine and the bulbs are good too. How to fix this or what I should look for to try to fix it?
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