Accent MC (2006-11) :: When Turned The Ignition On It Sounded Like Starting But Didn't Catch
Aug 14, 2014
I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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My 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
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I got a problem with me partners accent 2003 hatchback, after she filled up with fuel and turned the air-con on the speedo didn't work like it read 0, but while driving and turning the aircon off speedo started working again..... What was wrong or happened? as now it wont do it....it works fine??
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Yesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
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I have a 1989 Acura Integra standard shift. Without any pattern, the car won't start. All the lights come on when I turn the key but there is no sound indicating it trying to turn over. If I leave it alone for a little while, it will often start. By the way, this never happens in the morning even in below freezing temperatures.
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So the lights work fine don't dim when trying to start the car. when you turn the ignition there is one thump but no clicks or revs like belts are moving. The battery is fairly new less than a year and as mentioned all electric things seem to be fine. I was also told by the tow guy that it was the starter but just want to be sure.
Advanced auto states they will test it but I need to get it out of the car. Only problem is I cant find it. I've looked at the manual online and seen numerous diagrams but I don't know the physical location of it do I need to get under the car to remove it? Do i need to remove anything to get to it? I haven't seen any live pictures showing where it is and I've googled it for a while now.
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I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
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Car was parked nose slightly uphill. would turn over strong, but wouldn't catch ignition after long tries. I dinked around for 5 under the hood for 10 minutes in the 30 degree weather, and then after a medium long try, it started and ran. started fine after a 45 minute stop with the nose pointed slightly downhill. Then after 10 miles the engine shut off suddenly at 40mph with no warning. there was never any diminution of power in the acceleration. would not start again after many tries with plenty of revolutions. It did seem the cab lights were a little finicky/dim, but I couldn't tell if that was electrical weakness or just old car cab light switches. didn't behave the way a battery related ignition problem would. no check engine light.
Cop pulled up and wanted it off the busy road, and long story short it wound up at this shop I don't know anything about. the guy there said it started and ran fine for the 45 minutes or so he had it in the garage, but then it shut off. it wouldn't ignite when he sprayed throttle body cleaner into it while cranking the key. I think he said he did something else to confirm there was no spark. he's got his theories about what is wrong, but doesn't want to commit to anything unless he can burn some $100/hr time diagnosing.
I'm hoping it is not the ignition control module, ECM or especially the crankshaft position sensor.
95 GT Convertible - 5sfe
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When I start my 2001 passat 1.8T 155,000+, my car shakes like it feels like it needs to catch a second before starting fully, and when it does fully start it gives a good kick but then stops, just curious of what it could be and what it could run me, but its not the battery I know that?
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My wife owns a 2004 hyundai santa fe, and recently i replaced the belt and idle pulley, I've worked on a few cars in my life and understand the basics and some on how to work on a car.But this has me baffled, the other day i decided to take her car to work. She warned me it had a a slow turn over sometimes i told her okay and headed off to work, drove fine to work no start up issue, but then i went to lunch and it had a slow start like she said. Then in the afternoon started just fine for the drive home to work. I stopped at a gas station to put a little fuel in and the car wouldn't start, it would just release a small cloud of smoke from where the the starter was, so i said ah loose starter wire. That however isn't the case, pulled the plastic shield from the bottom off abd the heat shield off the starter just to find nothing was wrong with either instead its the wire above that running from the wiring harness to the motor, how to fix this issue? Ive attached a few photos
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Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe, and for the past couple of years, I have been having an incredibly frustrating issue with my car. When I go to turn the key, it sounds as if it is about to turn on (ie the engine is about to turn over and it sounds normal) then right before it catches, it will start clicking, the noise sounds like the battery is dead. When it first started happening, I called AAA, however by the time they reached me, the car had started again. Now when it occurs, I wait 10-15 minutes and it will start- every time. I have had it in to 4-5 different car repair shops, however no one can seem to figure out what it is. I have had the battery replaced, and several other things altered, etc, however nothing seems to fix the problem. I am not sure where to go from here, I was informed to check the fuel pump and/or filter yesterday- it happened twice on me yesterday as well.
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This started today, when I turn off the ignition and remove the key the radio stays on and the steering column does not lock. The guy at the dealership suggested spraying wd 40 into the ignition. No go.
2008 sonata.
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I recently bought a 2009 Toyota Corolla. The other day I noticed when I opened my door and the keys were still in the ignition, it either did not beep at all to warn me or only beeped once very briefly. I am almost certain I recall it beeping constantly until I pulled the keys out of the ignition. This feature has saved me from locking my keys in my car a few times and would like it to work again.
There are no other issues that I have had with the car, the ignition works fine as well as everything else.
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Our Honda Odyssey will have an occasional delayed start where you turn the key but no sound occurs. All the lights come on like normal and the automatic doors can all close and open without any issues. Originally we didn't know that we could eventually get the car to start by turning and holding the key in the start position. It happens every couple days to couple weeks and without holding the key in the on position it will be anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 days before the car will start normally again. We've spent about $1,000 at the Honda dealer to have the battery, battery cables, starter, and starter relay replaced but we're still having the problem.
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Ignition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
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My daughter has a 03 Accent that within the past week will not start at certain times. Some times it will some times it wont. It always cranks but doesn't catch. If she tries to start the car and it cranks, but doesn't catch, if you wait 15 -20 minutes, or longer, it will turn over and run fine. We are thinking crank position sensor or possibly fuel pump...
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Driving home in my 04, and it just died, no caution lights, still have battery power, and starter is engaging but engine wont catch, like no fuel or spark. Found no burnt out fuses, and checked the fuel pump relay. Pulled out the back seat, turned key and heard the fuel pump, so that is working, replaced the crackshaft position sensor, still no engine start.
Over 130k miles, 1.6l
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Drove the car yesterday all was fine. Came home and shut it off. Went to start it about an hour later and the ignition key will not turn. Tried a second key and still no luck. Disconnected the battery and waited for about 10 mins. Reconnected battery still no luck. Wiggled steering wheel and shifter (automatic) still no luck.
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How to remove the clip on ignition coil connector wires that attach to all 4 of the coils.
I see that it has a black tab that you pull to the up or out position. From there I'm at a loss what to do. I managed to prode and poke and got one off, but I nearly pulled the connector off the wire and I know I didn't do it right.
Is there a simple way to release these mothers that I'm just not getting? If so, looking for explicit instructions in minute detail..
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So, yesterday, when I stopped at red light, my car just turned off. I tried to turn it on, but I couldn't. I kept trying, and after 30th try it turned on. I had this same problem month ago, but it disappeared until now. I can turn it on by pushing when it happens. Is it fuel pump? Or some sensor?
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