Accent MC (2006-11) :: Transmission Making Ringing Type Sounds When Cold
Feb 22, 2016
My manual transmission has been making some funky ringing type sounds when cold. Pretty sure it's the trans since pressing the clutch in stops it. It always happens around 2k and is worst when engine breaking. When I just start the car there is a very very faint ringing that goes away as soon as I press the clutch even a tiny bit.
The car has about 45k miles and the clutch itself feels strong and shifting is absolutely fine, I changed the oil to Redline the past summer. Maybe throw out bearing?
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Earlier this year, I worked with my dealer to get a new automatic transmission for my 2007 Accent. I had only had the car for a couple months (purchased used, from my Grandmother who I knew, if anything, had probably been TOO gentle with it.) Only about 40,000km. I found the car extremely hesitant to shift on cool mornings, and allowing the engine to warm up first didn't make much difference. The 2-3 shift was especially late.
The last straw was when, on a frosty morning, the transmission failed to engage 3rd, bucked back out to find 2nd again, and then got 3rd on the next try. It did this a couple of mornings before I was done negotiating with the dealer, who ultimately agreed to supply a new transmission if I paid labour. This despite the car being just outside the 5-year powertrain warranty. I was quite satisfied.
So I enjoy the Summer with no problems -- only the barest hint of transmission "morning sickness", but only if I'm rushing it. I figure "that's an economy car for you". Now that cooler Fall weather has begun, I'm convinced that the new transmission behaves the same way as the first one. I haven't had the "bucking out of gear" problem yet, but the 2-3 shift is already a real dog on cool mornings.
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I own hyundai 2000, 1.5L. About 5 days ago the engine started making strange noise that sounds like sewing machine.
I went to my garage and they said that its the hydraulic valve lifters and that I should replace all of them(12 total).
My question is, what can happened if I wont replace them? can I postpone the replacing for a few months or it can cause damage?
By the way, I heard that the noise from hydraulic valve lifters can start due to bad oil, I had 20W50 so I changed today the oil to 15W40(manufacturer recommendation) and the oil filter and still got the noises.
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So It's been a while since I've noticed this wearing rusty sound when moving the driver seat forward and back. It only happens at a certain point where I feel most of my family members are positioned when driving.... I took a look it seemed a bit rusted... Will post pics later.
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About a month ago my 2006 Mazda3 (35,000 mi) started making loud creaking sounds everytime I turned and went over a bump. I took it into two mechanic shops and they both said the struts in the front were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced, in addition to the mounts and the swaybar link. I had all of this done, but when I got my car back it was making a new, very loud, clunking sound that I could also feel on one side when I drove over bumps. The sound was similar to the noise your car makes when the undercarriage hits the ground over a bump. I immediately took it back in, and the mechanic told me that the set of struts he had installed were "bad" and that he would put in new ones. This was done this weekend, but now my car is making the original creaking and groaning sound it did before, except much more audibly now. My car groans and creaks even if I turn the wheel while motionless.
I've heard that cars need time to "settle" into new struts. Does my car just need time to adjust?
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Over the past few days, my (factory) car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, with no one/nothing near it to cause it to go off. The car battery is less than 9 months old, the doors, windows, hood and trunk are all always closed. Why it is happening?
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My car is accent 1.4 A/T 2012, and lately I've been hearing this metallic knocking sounds underneath my car. it happens every time after i drove my car for a longer distance and even on a shorter distance with no minimum running speed, you can hear the metallic knocking sounds whether the engine is on or off. Sometimes it is too loud you don't have to go out from the car you just have to roll the window down to hear it.
I've brought this already to my dealer and told me it was normal but I don't want to accept their answer so i refer it to another hyundai dealer. the second dealer made an adjustments on the muffler and catalytic something and even upgraded the CEU but to no avail and even adjusted my steering preload. BUT I'm still hearing it!! What to do.
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So I've been living in FL and the other day there was a hurricane and the roads flooded. I think I got some water in my engine or somewhere because now my CEL is coming on then flashing and the car sounds like it's underwater! I haven't been able to drive it anywhere to get the code checked, I don't want to drive it because it seems like it's in rough shape. I checked all the plugs and cleaned them, but the 1st one was wet so I think there may have been water in there. After I cleaned the plugs I reset the ECU and the CEL was gone and I drove it 2 miles w/o issue. Then I went to the automotive store to get some oil/filter, etc to change the oil. I get back to my car and as soon as I turn it on again the CEL comes on and then starts flashing after a few mins of me revving it. I noticed that there is water coming out of the exhaust, like a lot more than normal, so what is happening. I did the oil change with no problems but when I started it again the CEL came on and started flashing. 2007 Accent SE
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Got a weird issue with my Hyundai Accent 2007 SE. Used my key fob to open the driver's door, no problem. Tried to start the car and the horn went beep-beep-beep in synch with the motor trying to start and then on the second attempt to start it, the engine would not turn over at all, nothing--just dead. A little while later my wife said she heard the car randomly going off, no pattern just beeping. She said she hit a couple of buttons on her fob and it stopped. I let the car sit for about an hour and then went out, unlocked the car driver's door with the key (not the fob), tried to start the car and there was no issue...it turned right over. What is going on?
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I have an 06 GS300. 73k on it. I finally took it in to the dealership for the fuel pipe recall and I told them that the check engine light and traction light and the exclamation point all came on the day before and that it ran rough for a few seconds then the lights went away and it ran fine. The codes were stored in the computer and they said "they needed to re-ring the pistons".
They are doing this at no charge!! They have had it for 20 days as of today. They said it was a huge job and they are doing it at no charge even though my power train warranty is up because starting Jan 2012 this is a "bulletin item" that they have begun to fix.
Here is my question- Since this is such a huge job and it sounds as though they have taken my entire engine apart, what should I expect when I get it back?? I am afraid that by taking it apart, I will have more problems than when I took it there.
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I wanted to pass along the results of a brake issue I encountered in my 2010 Prius (15K miles) and report to interested Prius owners how the issue was resolved.
Problem: In the last second (or so) coming to a complete stop I noticed a few light clunk type sounds, like something was loose up front. I never experienced any degradation in the braking performance.
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My engine has been making a ticking sound when it starts and when i hit the gas the ticking sounds stays there but go faster depending on my rpms and before it would go away after the engine got warm but now its here to stay. What it could it i feel like sound is hitting against the acceleration cable.
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We have a 2010 Hyundai Accent, with low miles (10,000), and the A/C Compressor is making a "growling" noise. The only way to explain the noise is when you hear a human try to immiate the sound of a dog growling. That's exactly what it sounds like.
First thing in the morning it doesn't make the noise to much, but as you drive for a bit you will start to hear it. Sometimes it's really loud, sometimes quieter. When you shut the A/C off, it will continue for a few seconds then stop.
The service department told me it was the compressor and it is, "pretty normal on the cars." How is that normal though? It sounds awful.
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I have a 2009 Accent 4-door sedan.
I was told during an oil change in the spring that I would need a new battery soonish. I haven't bought one yet.
Last week I tried to start my car and it made a machine gun noise and wouldn't start. A friend jumped it and it started fine. I took it to Canadian Tire and a mechanic tested the battery and said it was over charged, 508 I think, should be 500.
Then today it won't start and is making the machine gun noise again. Now the horn and lights are dimming too when I lock it.
What is going on? I checked the posts; they are clean and tight.
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I spoke to a mechanic and he is confident that there is no damage since it is not making any noise after oil is added. He is saying that the lifters would have made the noise and now that oil is added, everything is okay.
It is a 2006 Hyundai Accent.
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So 2 months after my accident I'm finally able to drive again and my car is 100% fixed and ready. Only 1 problem, every time I make a left turn my car makes this weird noise but I don't know what it is. I replaced my suspension and I thought it would take a couple days for the tightness to wear down and for the noise to go away, but of course with my luck it's still doing it. What can it be??
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My right rear brake is making a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. I took the drum off a couple weeks ago and the shoes are just a bit worn. Just getting into the numbers printed on the side of the shoe material.
I could not see any thing that would be making the metal on metal sound. Are there any wear indicators on the OEM shoes?
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The timing belt went out at idle while making a turn. I changed the timing belt, but when cranked you have to pump the gas to keep it running and it is really rough running with a smell of gas when you turn it off. On the last run it backfired slightly. There is no knocking or pinging. And have triple checked the timing. Could improper torque on the crankshaft bolt cause this or failed ignition coils?
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My brake pedal is making a creaking noise when depressed and can also be heard when letting off the pedal. The noise is not coming from the brakes themselves (front/back are like new) but the pedal area or somewhere behind it. This noise doesn't start until I've driven the car for a little while. The brakes work fine for the most part but sometimes feel a bit spongy if making a sudden or hard stop. The fluid levels are fine.
I'm taking it in on Friday and hoping that the brakes just need to be bled a little or maybe the pedal just needs lube, but I'm worried it might be the booster or master cylinder---if it is one of these?
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Recently my 2006 Azera Limited with 3.8L V6 is making a valve tappet noise when cold - it goes away when the car is driven a few minutes. It now has 142K on it, is it just that the tappet has gotten 'dirty' and is sticking, or is this a sign of a much more serious problem? I am presuming the Azera has hydraulic tappets. There is no lack of engine performance or misfire at all. I have not yet changed its oil, the dealer I bought it from said they changed the oil when I bought it, just under 3000 miles ago. Could they have used the wrong oil? Too thick a grade? I have heard several other possibilities - the 'oil control valve' I think, or the valve lash being out of adjustment - but wouldn't either of these be constant issues? I'm hoping it's just oil related, which could be fixed easily..
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The power locks on the front right door started making a ugly sound. I disassembled everything including the actual electric actuator and found that the problem is caused because one of the gears that got a teeth broken.
Now, I forgot to take a picture before I put it all together, but it was white gear about one inch in size with a little square thingy in one side that moves the actual lock.
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