My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
View 1 RepliesLooking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
So I have a 2006 2.4 sonata with a transmission whine only when pressing on the gas in drive or reverse. I just flushed and replaced the fluid and it is at the correct level. What I want to know is since the transmission has in internal filter, is it possible for me to clean it out to get rid of the whining sound?
View 8 RepliesThe transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
View 4 RepliesThe car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
Is there a bulb that lights up the shifter position on an auto transmission (floor shifter)? IF so... I have 2 that need it done but I can't find where the bulb is since it doesn't lite up any more.
The vehicles are -
1995 Geo Prizm automatic
1998 Corolla automatic
Both need to have the bulb that lites up the Park, Neutral, Drive positions of an automatic floor shifter center console. Both are similar but I cannot for the life of me find this light bulb to replace it.
I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
View 2 RepliesI have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
View 1 RepliesIs it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
I have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
View 5 RepliesMy Dad has a 01 f150 xtended cab 5.4 auto. Some of this info is second hand. He had driven it on a trip about 50 miles,when he started it to return he said it did not want to engage, put it in gear and nothing happened. Messed with it a bit and got it to go. was fine for about 30 miles or so. Then it started to make noise. I trailered it home and drove it a couple hundred yards to the shop. It sounds like a very large, very dry bearing, also seemed to catch/lock up then clunk.
With the wheels off the ground you can kick it into neutral and while the wheels are still rolling it quiets down. Also it does it sometimes while in neutral. When it is in park it sounds like stuff is still turning. At fist I thought wheel bearing or rear end until it made noise in neutral and park. The noise in park is not loud, just sounds like things are turning. It is full of fluid. The tranny has always worked flawlessly and still does even with the noise. Where to start looking? Transfer case?
I've got a 2001 E350 van with the 5.4 triton and 4R100 transmission in it. Has about 130,000 miles on it. I was doing some work under it a couple of days ago and noticed a rattling noise coming from the front of the bell housing. I can't hear it sitting in the vehicle or standing next to it but it's pretty scary sounding with my face under the inspection cover.
Shifting is smooth no noticeable problems there. Tranny fluid looks good, not burnt. After further investigation the noise is only present in park or neutral. In drive it goes away. In park it takes a few minutes of warm up for it to begin starting as a light tap tap, eventually working its way up to a clatter once warm. I know the 99 4r100 had some TC issues that sounded like this. It sounds like it's in front of the TC so I'm thinking the flex plate maybe?
I'm wondering what transmission fluid is the best to use for my 73' f100? Also wondering if changing the Fluid would stop the tranny from slipping. When i start her up reverse works great pops in every time quickly, but when i go into drive nothing happens like its in neutral?? after awhile of sitting and pressing on the gas a few times it pops in gear but very slowly and in stages.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
I drive a 1998 Ford Contour, the transmission goes into neutral on takeoff in drive, you can manually shift through the gears and get going, but not from drive.
View 1 RepliesSo I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
I have a 2002 Accent with a manual transmission with just over 100K. It has for some time had a low whine, which is getting worse. Not wheel bearings. The whine increases with speed, and seems a little louder when decelerating. Makes the sound in every gear and when in neutral (coasting at speed). Brought it into a mechanic and he thought bearings in the transmission (though I don't know why it would make the same sound when in neutral . . .). Shifts through all of the gears fine, no other odd sounds. Can't find any information out there that sounds like my situation.
View 4 RepliesMy 2009 Sonata, 2. 4 L engine, base model with automatic transmission started up and ran OK, but 20 minutes later when I parked the car and shifted towards Park the gears grinded in neutral, stopped grinding in Reverse, and then grinded again when I made it to Park, and I quickly turned off the engine.
When I restarted, it grinded in Park, OK past Reverse, Grinded in Neutral, and then OK in Drive. How serious this is, or if there is anything I can check out on my own?
Eco Transmission. Neutral at stop lights save gas compared to Drive?
I almost feel like when I'm stopped in Drive it's actually in neutral. I'm curious if being in Neutral at really long red lights would save gas?