After changing the timing belt and water pump I want to change the coolant. Stupid to have no temp gauge so I got a scan tool connected. Been idling 20 minutes and it hasn't gone above 189 degrees. Assume it has a 195 degree thermostat. I put fresh water in the radiator but still don't see it mixing with coolant in the block as if the thermostat has opened.
View 6 RepliesI noticed that my car rattles (the engine) when is warm, if the engine is cold by the morning nothing happens, is just after the engine is warm (working condition) some people say gas quality but I use Premium and always the same station, the rattle is after switch gears, just for one or two seconds (sounds like click! click! click!)
Could be that the cylinder head is blown? Oil "Quaker State High Millage" was change 3000 kilometers ago, sparks plugs brand new NGK Iridium IX at the same time...
My car: 07 Accent hatchback 127,000 kilo on it ....
I go in this week to recheck my nagging check engine light. Flashes after a warm start, then stays on. Been there once already for it, it has come on too after a cold start... Last time they said it was a very vague miss fire code.... It did shake a bit... On the plus I get to drive a nice new Elantra again.... On the down, I never want my car back after driving it ...
View 2 RepliesNoticing that my drivers seat is taking a long time to heat up. I usually warm up the car in the winter, and turn on the seat heater. The seat is still cold when I get in, and does not heat up until I go a few miles. Have to check and see if the passenger is doing the same thing.
View 2 RepliesThis weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).
I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?
O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 model accent manual trans its just recently clocked 200 000 km I know the car has had problems but they are getting worse. Occasionally I have Problems starting the car in the past but it usually takes no more than 5 turns to get started but this is getting worse the other day it took about 5 min maybe more to get the car started I am guessing my starter motor probably Needs to be changed.
Next problem yesterday after I put a full tank of Premium 98 in the car its starts to rev itself changing the sound and note of the motor running constantly it has done this in the past but not so severely and It only seem to do so after putting petrol Especially when I put fuel From a servo I don't usually go to the car would have stalled more than once but didn't only because I tried to keep the revs up when it sounded like it was gunna die also I am pretty sure my fan was making some weird noises but the car has had no engine Light show and no Overheating.
2004 VW Passat, 1.8L Turbo. So my coolant needs to be flushed since it doesn't look good and I for the life of me cannot find the t-stat housing or the water pump. I wonder if they changed everything in the 2004.
View 1 RepliesHere is the thing, this did not start until after I got a coolant flush, and went to get some gas. I was thinking dirty fuel injectors, so I put the Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in with the next full tank of gas, and it didn't do anything.
There is a ticking sound, and the car sounds like a freight train chugging. The car still runs and still has great performance than ever before (due to the new plugs)
Here is what I have done:
Ran motor flush
Changed oil + Lucas Oil Additive
Changed all 4 Spark Plugs (replaced crappy Autolite with NGK Platinum)
Changed Power Steering Fluid (flushed)
Changed Coolant (flushed)
Cleaned the throttle body and intake
Drained through and filled up gas again + Lucas Fuel Stuff
You can't really hear it from inside the car, and it only seems to be happening after the car has been warmed up. It does not happen during a cold start at all (in the mornings).
The ticking sound stopped for a bit when I ran the motor flush, and changed the oil. Now the sound is still there, but it is A LOT less annoying than before. The car also has A LOT better performance with the new plugs, I seem to be able to take off a lot better at lights.
Here is what I still need to do:
Change the engine air filter.
Double check the throttle body and intake.
It is a 2004 Camry with 182,000 Miles. The ticking didn't start until after it came back from the shop, which has me suspicious. Shop claims nothing is wrong, which is a load of BS.
What I am thinking:
Stuck valve
Lifters
STILL dirty intake (shop could have done nothing and charged me for it)
I did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.
There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.
I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.
I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.
Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?
My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.
I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.
My 02 Explorer with the 4.6 has about 100k on her and I think it is time to change the coolant. ( I have only had it since 87k )
Should I flush it or just change it. What is the best way ?
OK all sensors and evac valve done. No codes being pulled. No check engine light. Car starts no problem in the morning or when its been sitting but when the car has been driven to temp. I will not restart and just keeps cranking, if it starts to start it shudders and dies. I am the original owner and its had any maintenance its needed.
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
View 6 RepliesI just had my oil cooler and EGR cooler replaced, and I'm now consider doing a coolant flush with Restore/Restore+ to ensure the coolant system is clean. I know this might be backwards and perhaps should have done the flush first, but schedule and such did not allow. I do have a coolant filter.
View 5 Replies2008 Accent. Timing belt broke. Took the head off and had valves replaced (2) and head work done. Had everything put back together. Car runs. Except it makes a slight ticking sound when warm. When it's cold it ticks a lot.
View 5 RepliesI have an 03 Passat Wagon, 2.8L V6. My wife is getting ready for a big drive tomorrow, about 13 hours. Right now after reaching the operating temperature and then shutting off the coolant is boiling. The temp gauge never goes beyond 190 so it is not overheating but it is getting really warm in the engine compartment.
History: I noticed a couple of days ago that the expansion tank was badly discolored and had some corrosion inside. I know it was because I inadvertently mixed the green stuff with it about 2 months ago. I know it was stupid, but that was before I realized how stupid. Yesterday I drained the coolant and flushed it about 4 times. I couldn't flush it completely because I couldn't get at the drain next to the transmission fluid pan. I just drained it from the front outlet.
I refilled the system by disconnecting the expansion tank and holding it up until fluid came out of the hole on the hose going into the firewall. Then I was going to bleed it from the bleeder screw in the rear coolant pipe (as listed in Haynes manual) but could not find it. I even have the photo in the book to guide me and it is not there. Since I couldn't find it I skipped to the bleeder valve by the serpentine belt. I bleed that and hooked it all back up.
Now my fluid boils. I know it isn't the expansion tank cap because I took the one from my Jetta and put it in and it does the same thing. I put the cap from the Passat in the Jetta and it doesn't cause that coolant to boil. After driving today for a half hour the engine compartment felt superheated. Even the fenders were hot to the touch. It is almost 90 outside but it still felt unusually hot in the engine compartment. I would like for my wife to drive this on her road trip instead of the Jetta, but I can't let her do that with this problem.
I think I must not have bleed the system very well. The heater works and the temp gauge never goes above 190.
I'm planning on doing the regular scheduled coolant flush but not sure if it can be done without any special equipment.
One dealer said they don't do many diesels but have a machine to do the refill and quoted ~200$. The other does more diesels but hasn't done a flush in a while and quoted ~500$ and said he does it old school by draining everything out and then water flush followed by refilling the systems.
Which one is right? Can it be done in the driveway? Which is the correct coolant for the refill and are any additives required after filling?
I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!