Accent MC (2006-11) :: Sunroof Adjustment On Driver Side
Jan 18, 2014
My sunroof seems to need an adjustment. It is not sealing on the rear of the sunroof on the drivers side. I can no longer access the shop manuals for free at the hmaservice.com. Looking to find info on how to adjust it.
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My driver side is higher than the passenger, how do you adjust the headlights?
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My driver side headlight is dim but not out. Passenger side is normal. Ive checked under dash fuses but maybe not the correct ones? These are brand new bulbs. I replaced them because my driver side went completely out with my hid set up.
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My drivers side windshield wiper is missing a band about 3" wide in the middle. I bought aftermarket blades but is still missing the same band.
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Recently replaced the head and gasket on 2010 accent blue. Torqued to factory specs. There is an oil leak between the head and block in the front driver side. Can i tighten that bolt? Is there a break in period, do i need to re-torque or buy another gasket and head bolts?
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2006 Accent. Today I was stunned to find the inside driver's handle no longer opened the door : I'm sitting here with my door panel almost completely off, the only thing I'm stuck on is the manual window crank
I've been searching around google and here, all I can really find is that it's a huge PITA, and you're supposed to use a hook to pull out a C-Clip.
I really can't see this C-Clip. Or even make contact with it, if it is there. I've been pulling the crank back and peaking inside ever so slightly and I'm just not seeing anything. With a hook in there, I spun the crank hoping I'd feel a 'bump' or 'nudge' of the clip against my hook (bent metal wire), but honestly I've got nothing.
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We purchased our 2009 Accent 4 door used about 3 years ago and it came with only one keyless remote. Last week we began having problems with the keyless remote sometimes not locking the driver's door. It usually locks the other 3 doors on the first press of the button, but it usually takes 2 or more presses to get it to lock the driver's door. It always unlocks the driver's door on the first press. I replaced the battery in the keyless remote fob, and opened and closed the hood and trunk with no effect. We still have the original battery in the car.
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I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
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I have a 2011 Phaeton with manually adjustable headrests on the front seats, haven't checked the rears, the drivers headrest stuck in the up position after moving it to clean underneath, pushed the button to lower the headrest with no luck and noticed the button was loose and not seated properly so I pulled it all the way out long piece of plastic with a small plastic pin on the end, put it back in a it bends the pin to the side, so decided to check out the passenger side it has a shorter piece of plastic with the same piece of plastic on the end and you guessed it that won't go back in either.
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I had a low beam bulb go out a month ago on the driver side. I bought some silvania silverstars to install on both sides. The drivers side went fine but as I installed the passenger side the inside reflector housing came loose, apparently popping off some spring clips inside the headlight housing. The passenger side headlight assembly now pointed towards the ground 10 feet in front of the car... I tried to adjust the screws to bring the light pattern back up. No joy.
Anyway I messed and messed trying to get the reflector housing to fit back on the spring clips. I ended up having to pull the bumper apart and the whole front side of the car to totally remove the headlight assembly. Once I got it out I found these little ball/socket spring clips and was able to put the assembly back together.
Now my issue is I have lost track of the adjustment screws and where the headlights should point. Any formula such as, "park your car 10ft from the garage door on the flat level. The low beam should be 30 inches off the ground on the bottom and the 40 inches at the top. The beam should be 50 inches from the center line of the car" Something like that so that I can get my headlights back to factory settings.
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I get a little bit of wind noise from the drivers door. Upon inspection, I noticed that the drivers door sticks out a little bit more than the passenger door when it is closed. In other words, the passenger door window from is flush with the adjacent trim but the drivers window from is maybe 1.5 mm out. I suspect this may be just enough to cause the slight wind noise.
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Door on the T-reg that is hard to get latched completely? I'm finding a need to reopen/slam the driver's door on a regular basis. Is this something the dealer can "adjust" for me? What would it involve? I don't think the other three doors need to be slammed anywhere near as hard.
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I got a 2011 SEL with power seats. Is it possible to VAG the Tig seats to be able to automatically move back when I open the driver side door so there's more leg room to get out and also move back to last driver seat settling once you start the car? I know that feature is standard in some luxury cars like Mercedes.
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Have had the puppy about a month. Getting about 31+ on the Hwy. Anyhoo for the real story, we got home today and noticed that there was a seal around the the sunroof, well on the driver side that was loose. Sort of a flex/accordion type. The other side didn't have one. Not sure, but it looks like it folds over to the outside under the slide track, but not sure. The other side is gone.
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So I found out this afternoon that I have a leaking sunroof. Water has been draining into the rear driver's side passenger area and has soaked my carpet under my seat. And had standing water under my rear seat in the tray next to the fuel pump access.
I found that the drain tubes can become clogged allowing for water to spill over or seep out. And sending some compressed air up the tube will clear it. But I do not know where the tube exits.
I unfortunately cannot pull the interior apart the weekend because I have drill. So it will have to wait until next weekend to gut her again. I will also pull the headliner to check the condition of the tube.
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How hard is it to replace the sunroof slider? Mine is making a clicking noise and hard to move on the drivers side. Does the headliner and sunroof need to be removed?
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1) After 10000km the car started to develop some front suspension knocking sound going over potholes. After three trips to a dealer they finally said that it was a loose stabilizer bar which apparently is "very common". They tightened it and the problem seemed to go away. Now after 40000km the problem seems to have came back. I am starting to think that maybe it is somehow related to cold temperature because it seems to get a little better once the car has been warmed up and it has been going for some time.
I don't really care about the noise, but I want Hyundai to fix it if there really is a problem.
2) When driving 40-60km/h with the sunroof open I get a resonant wobbling sound. If I open one of the windows just a bit it disappears. Sounds like a poor sunroof wind deflector design to me. (I have driven Mazdaz and Hondas with sunroofs and none of them had that problem)
3) Whats up with those super heavy 16' aluminum wheels!!!! Is it just me or it feels like they weigh more then the steel ones? The car even feels faster when I put on my winter tires on steel rims.
Other then that the car has been pretty good. I am not getting anywhere near the factory specified fuel efficiency 6.5-7.5l/100km hwy and 8-9l/100km city, but I do drive it fairly hard, so that is OK. It still amazes me though that my 15yr old civic was getting the same mileage with a comparable performance. You would think that there would be some progress in automotive technology....
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I have a 2006 Saturn Vue and if drive with the sunroof open and the driver side window open I get periodic thumps or knocks from below the front seats or the dashboard (not really sure where it is coming from).
If I open additional windows or close the driver side window it goes away. I am sure it is an air flow issue.
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So as the title says the sunroof in my 2000 Jetta is leaking. I've taken down a, b, and c pillars, and the headliner. Poured water in the drain tray and no noticeable leak.. however when I spray it with the hose, the water overflows over the drain tray at the drain ends and into the car like Niagara falls. I've check all the connections, pinched open the plugs. I've already replaced the sunroof seal, which was noticeably shrunken. The new one fits snug all around but I'm still getting the leak. The water (from what i can tell) over flows the tray, runs down the headliner to the drivers side C pillar and then down into the trunk where the cd changer / safety kit was. I usually park uphill, and the one time I parked down hill and sprayed it with the hose the water was "Niagara falling" into my passenger seat.
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 started dripping water the other day from the ceiling handle. The drain hoses do not appear to be plugged, water runs freely out. I pulled off the headliner around the place of the leak, and I can kind of see a plastic attachment with the drain hose on the corner of the sunroof frame. The water is coming from somewhere from it, but not from the hose attachment.
My question is, Do I have to replace the sunroof frame? Is it difficult to do? Or can I get away epoxying around the leak if it's small enough? In any case, how hard is it to remove the headliner?
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