Accent MC (2006-11) :: Stutter Then Started Up
Jul 4, 2016
Just changed second timing belt on my Accent. When starting it up afterwards it stuttered then started up. Ran fine for 10 minutes parked it and went inside. Came out 10 minutes later and same thing stuttered to start but it did second time. CEL came on P0016. I know what the code is after looking it up, but I'm sure that the timing belt is set on TDC. Could it really be the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? Didn't go anywhere near it when changing the belt.
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2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
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Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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Encountered the said issue where the ABS light will not go off even after engine started.
After a 30 mins smooth drive, I park my car and went off for 10 minutes. Back to the car and it took longer time than usual to start the engine. (normally took only 1 second to start the engine). It feels like the battery is not properly charge.
After a short drive, my parking brake aka hand brake and ABS light appear at the same time when the car is moving. Stop my car aside, restart engine, parking brake back to normal. ABS light will not go off since then. Starting the car seems easy as usual though.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Prius with ~250,000 miles. Yesterday I was driving and the vehicle started to "stutter" and the warning lights came on. My ScanGauge indicated code P3125. I drove normally for 2-3 miles and parked for a bit. When I returned, I was able to start up and drive home with no problems (about 20 miles of highway and stop & go traffic), and drove most of this morning, but around noon it happened again and this time the vehicle would hardly move at all. It had no reverse and I had to push it out of the parking spot. I managed to limp home and park it.
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After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent with 52000Km (32932miles) The car was parked since 2011 and now when I started it, it started really rough and would not accelerate (it would die if i pressed the acceleration pedal) but now after multiple attempts the car sounds like it wants to start but it doesn't unless I press the acceleration pedal when starting the car then the car revs to 2000rpm and dies within 1-2seconds,I also hear a odd sound from the intake its like a loud rumble. So far I have tried
- changing the spark plugs
- changing the coils
- checked spark
- cleaned intake manifold
- cleaned throttle body
- replaced PCV valve (because originally there was alot of oil in the intake)
- checked if fuel pump is pumping gas
I also checked the engine codes and there is a code for crankshaft position sensor abnormal -P0336 I unplugged the crankshaft sensor and the car wont start at all further more I also checked if it was sending the correct rpms with my obd tool and it seems like it is ...
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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I have a 2010 legacy that I bought roughly three months ago. About two months ago the audio (cd, aux, fm/am, Bluetooth) started to cut out or stutter. I would turn the car off and come back a few hours later and start it back up and it was back to normal. Over time it has become worse to where after sitting over night the audio won't work when I start it back up. The display on the stereo works. I picked up a stereo from the wrecking yard, same model, and the issue was the same... The display worked but not the audio. I took it in to the Subaru dealership and the mechanic diagnosed it as a bad stereo (this was before I picked up a replacement stereo from the wrecking yard). My thought was that the amp was the culprit.
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When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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The power locks on the front right door started making a ugly sound. I disassembled everything including the actual electric actuator and found that the problem is caused because one of the gears that got a teeth broken.
Now, I forgot to take a picture before I put it all together, but it was white gear about one inch in size with a little square thingy in one side that moves the actual lock.
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I have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.
At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.
Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.
Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.
Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).
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2000 Hyundai Accent GS, 1.5l, 4cyl SOHC...
I have a slight issue. A few weeks ago, I put some "STP" style fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank. Either A) It cleaned everything really well and clogged my injectors, or it turned into gunk and possibly clogged something else up.
Ever since that day, my issue is that the car "stutters" very slightly. When idling, it'll "hiccup." When I'm doing normal driving, 55-60mph at 2k RPM, It'll almost feel like a transmission slip.
I've went and replaced my Fuel pump, filter, and now I've done half a can of seafoam through the brake line power booster (vaccuum) straight into the engine, and the other half into my oil for further cleaning. I also applied Seafoam Deep Creep into my throttle body, just for further maintenance.
Ever since then, everything has been running noticeably better, and I've had a huge increase in gas mileage, but there's still a slight hiccup that occurs during idle and driving.
I change the oil /filter, plugs, wires, air filter on a regular basis.
I also had to change the MAF at one point in time, as it died and the car wouldn't start at all.
Next thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the plugs / wires one more time (it's been about 5 months since my last change) just to see if I bought a faulty plug.
The car was put on a computer and the only error code that came up was one about my check engine light being out.
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As the topic says, I get a slight stutter in the car when I'm say parking into a parking spot. As I get closer to 0 mph i feel the car kinda jerk a little bit.
It's done this since we bought it off a used car lot, and I figured it was the tranny fluid being burned or low. I did a drain/fill twice over the last weekend, and noticed while it has worked forthe issue, it's not fully rectified.
I also notice that 60-80% of the time when LIGHTLY accelerating, going from 1st to 2nd is kinda rough. If i floor it, it's actually pretty smooth.
It doesn't feel like anything "BAD" is happening - no grinding, doesn't feel like slippage...
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My father has an 05/06 4cyl Sonata automatic that he keeps in good shape. They commuted a fair distance before they retired last year, so the car has around 70k miles on it. He'd mentioned to me a few months back that it had a bit of a transmission hesitation when cruising at a steady 75-85km/h. I'd forgotten about it until I drove the car the other day...
What happens is that after cruising for around ten minutes at steady speed, the transmission begins to 'stutter'. It's not any huge event, but it's almost as if the engine was misfiring, which is the feeling you get. A small stuttering as power drops for a few tenths of a second, then comes back, then drops again, repeatedly. What he tells me he does to get away from this is to decelerate to a lower speed and hold there(~70km/h or lower) or repeatedly accelerate and decelerate gently from 75km/h to 85km/h. Both of these worked. I also found a third solution, that if you move the gear selector from 'D' to the 'manual shift' mode (it usually goes to '4' in these circumstances) the problem disappears and the car drives fine. Regular upshifts and downshifts are fine in both automatic and manual modes, and the fluid level is normal.
What burns me is that he'd taken the car in for servicing before the end of his regular warranty period and was told, "Oh, that's normal. They ALL do that. It's just the computer trying to re-learn how you drive." I can't STAND how dealer techs try to take advantage of people like this. Yes, the ECUs self-learn and yes there can be dramatic issues when a new ECU or transmission or whatnot is installed until it happens, but this kind of thing doesn't happen 'out of the blue'! I told him to take it back and put the screws to 'em that they should fix it under warranty since that's when the problem was reported. Otherwise, push them for a really good deal on a new Sonata Turbo...
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I have a 2006 S6 2.5T. My car drove fine 3 miles to school drop-off, where I turned off my car. 5 minutes later, I restarted the car but it stuttered significantly in idle for a minute or two.
It drove fine but within a mile I noticed a yellow check engine light and green engine system service required. Haven't had this problem previously. Some background, that might be not be important:
- I recently had a 75k service and have driven approx 500 miles since.
- The car was not driven for 1 week until yesterday, when I drove ~6 miles.
- I noticed my cruise control was on, or at least the indicator was ... I certainly didn't turn on cruise control purposely.
- Temperature approx 45 degrees, no rain
Is this something I need to see my mechanic about urgently? I need to drive 50 miles later today.
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I am having issues with a 2006 Gen II Prius that just approached 120K miles. When going down a hill at approx. 35-40mph, the engine jerks when downshifting or when coasting.
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I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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