I was coming home from work today and I got a little screwed over. So I got stuck about 10 times in 2 feet of snow and my tires looked like they burned out they smell horrible but I have a bigger problem. The brake light when on the e-brake and stayed on what does that mean?? is it a leak? Then the ABS light when on probably because of no traction but is it a major problem?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
View 5 RepliesI was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
View 14 RepliesWhy the "esc off" light goes off in my 08 elantra se? This has happened 3 times in the last 4 months, every time while I am driving in rainy/snow shower conditions. I tried reactivating esc, but it does not allow me until I turn the ignition off and back on. Is this supposed to happen when it rains? I would like to take the car to the dealer for diagnosis but it happens at night and not close to a hyundai dealer.
View 7 RepliesI have never had this experience in 33 years of car ownership and driving in snow. Have a 2012 v and absolutely no traction in snow. Got stuck in my flat driveway, on 1" of snow in parking lot, up a hill that required pushing all the way up the hill by two people. Is there any way to disengage the TRAC system? There is no moment in which the car bites into the snow and moves. It basically just rocks (too strong a word, because there is no movement) in place with the TRAC light on. I basically can't drive it.
View 19 RepliesSaturday I stuck the ex in a snow drift, rocked it back and forth in low range about six or seven times, once i got it out the engine shudders in overdrive. If i lock out OD it still shudders under load, It starts at around 40 mph, if I push it up to 60 and let off the throttle it stops and is smooth until I start to climb a hill. It never did this before It is a 2001 V10 with 143,000 miles, where to start looking ....
View 6 RepliesIgnition coils on Hyundai Accent (2011) getting stuck in suction? Or looking for engine vacuum pathway explanation?
I previously (~6 months ago) replaced one ignition coil that had a misfire. I currently have a check engine light with "No Codes" on code reader. My engine is rough idling with very weak acceleration. This occurred when trying to accelerate up a hill. I was looking to inspect the coil resistance and noticed the replaced coil has a pretty strong suction holding it in.
The belt is stuck it won't move. What could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesSo the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
first off my truck is 2001 ford ranger 4x4 with an auto. transmission. when I'm driving around in 2wd, everything is fine...
when my 4wd high is on, and I'm starting from a deadstop my truck makes a weird "clunking" noise in the front end. If I'm stuck in mud or snow, and I give gas it keeps "clunking". where the problem comes from?
I am having a problem with my MK4 Jetta. The problem is that the light that says "Brake" on the dash is on and it is very dimly lit when the ebrake is down/ disengaged. But when I pull it up, it is lit up as much as it should. Also most of the time it will get even more dim if you tap the brake pedal or the clutch. My Jetta is scheduled to go get inspected in a few days and I need to fix this or it wont pass. I included a video of what it's doing so click on it and maybe y'all will be able to tell me what's wrong with it. [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Accent GLS. I bought it used, but it came fully loaded- AC, power everything- in fact, I checked the package list and everything that was an option, I found in my car. I never thought to check for the tilt steering wheel, though.
Recently, I decided to try and play around with it. I feel the lever there to pull and adjust it, however, it seems stuck. The lever just won't move. Is there some special way to release it to tilt the steering wheel?
Not that I need it tilted a certain way, just a minor thing I was wondering about.
My wife has an 09 Accent and a couple of days ago we were exiting the highway. As I stepped on the accelerator I noticed the engine struggle and stumble followed by the flashing MEL. I pulled into a parking lot and shut the car off and plugged the reader in to get the code but the computer already erased the code and the MEL light was extinguished and it ran fine the rest of the day. The following day my wife was driving it on the highway when the MEL light came back on but there was no associated engine roughness. I had her plug in the reader to get the code for me and it came up with P302 - misfire detected in the #2 cylinder. She didn't notice any engine roughness so I told her to drive to work but stay off the highway. She went out at lunch and the MEL light was off.
I did some research on here and the web and found the accent is known for going through ignition coils as well as a possible design flaw with the ignition wire harness that could cause it to rub and become frayed. I ordered the wire harness from our local Hyundai dealer and got an ignition coil from autozone. I also figured that I might as well get 4 spark plugs and replace them while I was at it. I got the plastic cover off and removed the 10mm bolt from the #2 ignition coil but it was wedged in there and would not budge. The coils from 1, 3, and 4 popped out with no issues. I ended up using almost a half a can of PB Blaster and 2 hours before the coil finally came out. The problem that I'm now looking at is some of the plastic from the coil remained stuck to the metal in the holder. Is there anything that I can use to clean out that metal cylinder?
After examining the spark plug from the #2 cylinder I could tell it was fouled and needed replacing but my concern is now that that new coil will get stuck in much the same manner. I'm pretty sure that the coils were WELL past due for replacement as I'm not sure when they, with the spark plugs, were replaced last. I'm pretty sure it was before my wife and I got together so that's more than the recommended 60k replacement intervals. I've ordered 3 more ignition coils to replace all of them and reset the 60k replacement interval. Since I replaced the one coil and 4 spark plugs the problem seems to have been corrected and the car is running great.
I just want to ask and let ppl know if they have had this problem on there camry. This is the 4 time its had come on like this the ABS e brake and Skid light all three came on while i was parked and driving, everything I had to pull over to the side and turn off my car and restart it and the lights are gone.
View 14 RepliesE brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
View 4 RepliesDad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
View 12 RepliesWhere to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
My 07 Elantra SE (5 speed manual) without ESC is terrible in the snow. While traveling at almost any speed, and braking around a turn, the rear end (under icy conditions) will break free and the car is out of control. No warning was given. While traveling in a straight line on hard-pack snow (icy) with ruts, the rear end gave way and I ended up in the ditch. Didn't break or turn the wheel prior to this.I love the car but am afraid to drive it in the snow. Does ESC (electronic stability control) take care of this problem? I love the car otherwise; always get over 30 mpg (usually 33-34 mpg).
View 15 Replies06 Screw, ESOF. Tried to use 4x4 high the other day and all I got was a quick flash of the light, then nothing. No sounds from tc motor, nothing. left it in 2wd instead and drove to work. Came out of work and 4X4 high light is stuck on (even when switch is in 2wd), and only rear tires powered. Didn't have time to look at it, drove it for the last few days with light on, but no 4wd. Tonight, I tried low range and sure enough, heard a clunk and low range works, but only 2wd. Goes in and out of high and low 4X4, but no power to the front wheels. Where do I start? I put in 2 new IWE's and the updated IWE solenoid last winter to fix a problem, worked great til this. Is there a write up on how to test the switch and connection at TCM? I haven't jacked it up to see what is/isn't locked yet, but on pavement with wheels cranked all the way, it doesn't hop like it would when in 4X4.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
View 14 RepliesI drive a 2008 Elantra and had a mouse chew the wiring harness from the output speed sensor on the transmission to where the wires diverge from the Engine harness. It was still able to drive but the transmission stayed in third gear, the cruise set light stayed on and the check engine light came on.
I had noticed sluggish shifting before this happened and assumed the speed sensors needed replaced so I purchased the input and output sensors (42620-39200 & 42621-39200) and that is when I noticed the wires missing. I've checked the harness for other potential mouse foolery, took the old connector to the output sensor soldered wires to it and reconnected them to the engine harness. On a test drive after rewiring and replacing the sensors the car still stays in third and the set light is still on however the check engine light is not on anymore. At this point I'm clueless what to do next besides drive it to a dealer.