Accent MC (2006-11) :: Stop Light Switch Sticking So Brake Lights Wouldn't Work Properly
Jul 26, 2012
I am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.
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Noticed when I press brake pedal brake lights does not work even the center one. Checked all fused in the car and the small ones under the hood. All fine. I have a long trip tomorrow. Where else i can look. Everything seems working. Reverse light is fine. Is that related to latest brake light switch recall? Cant think of anything else.
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I just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
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I have an 06 sonata and have no brake lights and the constant ESC off light staying on. After reading countless threads on here I see that the brake light switch was recalled on these and this is extremely common problem with this year and model. I went to my local shop bought a brand new switch, installed it properly and still the lights won't come on. I changed the fuses as well. Emergency lights, and the tail lights when the headlights are on come on but no brake lights. My next guess is the bulbs? they look ok. But I had a dodge caravan where both bulbs went out before at the same time so is that a possibility with this?
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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How to remove the switch panel. My car didn't come with any fog lights and I'd like to remove blank filler without scratching my dash?
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I have a 2010 Accent GS. I was trying to change the bulb in the trunk light. I changed the bulb and now none of the lights inside the car work-- map lights, dome light, trunk light. I figured it was a blown fuse. I looked at the fuse box inside the car and I think I found the fuse I think it's the one in that yellow box that is in the right side center of the fuse box. How do you pull that thing out? Are you supposed to pull out the individual fuses. I pulled the yellow box. It only comes half-way out. How do I check that little 10 amp fuse inside that yellow box?
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Accent 2006. When I start the car and start to drive, the car rock on the driver's side. I think it's the driver's rear. Then the feeling of a flat tire is felt but the tire seems to be ok. Occasionally hear a loud noise like from the exhaust and when I stop at a stop sign or stop lights and release the brake the car does not move till the accelerator is pressed and it rocks again and moves. It has 99000 km on it.
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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It seems that my left brake light is always on. I tried replacing the bulb, but that didn't do anything. I also had someone look at a switch underneath my break pedal.
I did had in the paste a problem with my trunk light, and got that resolved. Does any of those wires have anything to do with that light? What else it could be? Trunk light on dashboard
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So tonight i discovered that when I press the brake pedal, none of my brake lights turn on. When my headlights are on, the rear light bulbs are on, but no brake lights come on when i press the pedal, and high rear light is completely off (so i know that its not the bulbs). I am going to check the fuses tomorrow, what maybe be causing this?
its still under warranty, so i can always just take the thing to Hyundai if needs be. But i hate dealing with Hyundai because they have the WORST customer service i have ever had to deal with. They have nothing but a buncha mechanic school drop outs working there, so if its an easy fix- rather do it myself.
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So I went to get my '08 Accent inspected, and we observed that the right side and the 3rd brake lights were out. Replaced the bulb on the right side and still out. Not even going to attempt the 3rd light until I can get more info, because the odds of a complete LED strip quitting all at once are, well, remote enough to be laughable.
I checked the RH tail lamp fuse - connection still good. The left side brake light still works, so I'm doubtful that this is the notorious brake light switch that was recalled - unless such an issue has indeed been reported with said switch...
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I recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
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I was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
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I have a 2006 King Ranch and right tail and brake lights don't work. The bulb is good. The fuse diagram in the owners manual is not the fuse box I have, so I cannot id the correct fuse to see if its bad.
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I have a 2006 Sonata. My check engine light came on and also my ESC light. My car does not accelerate. It takes literally about 40 seconds to get up to 20 miles an hour. I called the hyundai 800 number and they said there is a recall for a "stop lamp switch malfunction".
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Suddenly my brake lights quit. Press the brake and nothing. Turn on the headlights and the rear lights turn on. Press the brake and no change. It's like I am not pressing the brake. What are the first things I should check?
2008 Accent GLS 66,000 miles
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My Excursion is having an issue with the 4x4 system. The. 4x4 selector switch on dash lights up properly for 4x4, but the auto hubs don't actually engage. The hubs will lock only if I manually lock the hubs. I can hear relay click, so I don't think its electrical. The hubs had new o rings installed when I did front ball joints a few thousand miles ago, and the 4x4 worked fine up until today.
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Today I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
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I just bought 2008 hyundai accent with 51,000 miles and it drives great. Only issue so far is the trunk latch sticks when i open it, and i have to unstick it to close. I ordered an OEM handle from the dealer in hopes that it's the part i need. Any tips on how to replace. I pulled the trim off to look under there and spray some lubricant on it. But not sure how complicated the latch will be to replace.
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My 09 Accent 3dr hatchback driver side window starts to hang up on something about 2/3 of the way as the window rolls down. Took to dealer, they said they had fixed it, but alas, its worse now than before.
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