Accent MC (2006-11) :: Steering Wheel Locked / Key Not Turning
Jul 26, 2013
I have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
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I bought an 09 Accent and love the car, good mileage and actually quiet. I have developed a noise when I turn my steering wheel. It is not there when the car is cold, but after a few moments, when I turn a corner, I hear sort of rubber on rubber sound as I turn the steering wheel.
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Turning my steering wheel left or right, especially when parked, there's a very noticeable creaking. This happens as well when I am going over bumps in a parking lot or somewhere at a low speed. The car itself turns fine, not sticking or power steering loss. So I am not quite sure whats going on here.. At 71k miles 2010.
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When I am sitting at a dead standstill and I turn the wheel lock to lock, left or right, I hear a clicking sound. The clicking is louder inside the car, but I can't tell if it's coming from the steering column or the various linkages in the suspension or drive systems.
If I drive in circles, with the wheel at a constant (or changing) angle, there are no clicks, so I don't think this is a CV joint issue.
What could be causing this noise? I really don't want to take off my lowering springs and restore this thing to the original configuration for a warranty repair visit to the dealership.
If I do, you may see a fire sale of H&R 20mm wheel adapters and B&G lowering springs in the near future.
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I have a 2008 RX 350 and I am experiencing issues with turning the key ignition and having the steering wheel locked. It gets locked and after several attempts at jimmying the key it eventually starts. My concern is that if I keep this practice up I will damage my key. I have addressed this issue to the dealership and I was naive and trusted them with fixing the problem with my last maintenance visit. Thinking the the problem was solved I started to experience the same problem again. I was first told that it is possible the my key chains are too heavy which could of caused the problem but I lightened the load and still have this problem. I've read about this problem with other people but there doesn't seem to be a solution.
One thing I have noticed is that I tend to experience this problem during the cold weather. During warmer weathers I don't have issues with the key ignition being locked but now that it's cold I am having the problem again (not sure if this has to do with anything). Do I need to change a part out to fix this? I've also read that there can be dirt in the ignition which needs to be cleaned out. Will this work and if so how do I do clean it?
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The car drives great on smooth roads, but as soon as I hit a bump it jerks the wheel and if turning the car it jumps sideways (overall feels like the rear is kicking out)... Not a fun feeling.
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I get a grinding or whirring sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. I gets worse if press the accelerator pedal. I believe it has something to do with the power steering but I don't know how to troubleshoot the issue....
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I bought an '08 Elantra about a month ago. A few weeks after buying it i noticed a creaking noise while turning the steering wheel to the left. It happens at low speeds or when stopped, but I haven't heard anything at high speeds. I can't tell for sure but it sounds closer to the inside of the car than the outside and will happen the entire time the steering wheel is turning to the left. No sound turning it to the right.
My brother liked my car so we test drove 3 other Elantras, 2 '08s and an '09. Two of them made the exact same noise. He ended up liking the one that didn't but after a while his started making the EXACT same noise too. I'm thinking this must be a common problem with the '07-'10 Elantras as all 4 cars had the same noise, but I can't find anything about it.
My right strut is bad and I'm having both front struts replaced Monday, so if it's something that can be done while he's doing the struts I'd like to find out before he takes everything apart so he doesn't have to do it twice.
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I have a 2009 Accent GLS. I bought it used, but it came fully loaded- AC, power everything- in fact, I checked the package list and everything that was an option, I found in my car. I never thought to check for the tilt steering wheel, though.
Recently, I decided to try and play around with it. I feel the lever there to pull and adjust it, however, it seems stuck. The lever just won't move. Is there some special way to release it to tilt the steering wheel?
Not that I need it tilted a certain way, just a minor thing I was wondering about.
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 59,000 miles. When it is warm out (70 F+), the sterering wheel makes a binding noise (squeeking noise - it is hard to describe) when turning. It doesn't do this all the time and it is much more noticeable when it is warm out. The temps are usually mild. This is a recent problem as I haven't noticed it before.
Should I be concerned about this? I want to get it checked before the 60,000 mile mark in case this is a serious issue such as rack and pinion steering problems.
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I have a 2007 elantra. I drove it for a while, then my ma needed a car (her tercel was a little unsafe) so I traded her. She loves the car, but as sometimes is the case, her dealer is not very nice. She has a severe side to side knocking noise in the steering- can be easily duplicated by sitting with the car idling and turning the wheel back and forth, even a little. Doesn't correspond with driving over bumps unless the wheel is inadvertently turned by the bump. If the suspension is unloaded (front wheels off the ground), noise disappears. No EPS lights, no codes in any system.
Listened with a stethoscope inside the car- not that loud through column within car. Inner and outer tie rods are tight, noise is not heard loudly with stethoscope through struts, upper mounts, lower arms. Under the car with loaded suspension (rhino ramps), noise is deafening in the rack, with a stethoscope. Dealer told her it needs a steering rack, I definitely understand why they would say that as the noise is clearly audible through the aluminum housing directly below the entrance of the column shaft into the rack. Only TSB I found was for a worm shaft flexible coupling, but the TSB says this is bump related.
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I was driving my 2004 VW Phaeton V8 (USDM) and stopped at a corner in the neighborhood. I then started going around the corner, when the steering just locked up for no reason and the battery light came on. I then shut down the engine and restarted it, making everything ok. What happened?!?
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I have that annoying squeal when I start my car and when I turn my steering wheel (also noticed I can't turn the wheel very well as it feels dodgy, as in the belt catches then lets go if that makes sense). Now once the car warms up it usually doesn't happen again but obviously I want to rectify this as my car draws enough attention at start up but this is getting ridiculous. I checked my power steering fluid and it's bad, brown and has some sediment so it needs changing for sure but here's my problem;
How do I check things to make sure I don't get ripped off at the mechanic? I'm sure a power steering flush and re-tightening of the belt will probably fix it as I've only but 40K on the belts since ikilledbarbie and I changed all of them out. Whay I don't want to have happen is go in and hear "oh you need to replace XYZ" when the problem really is only ABC if you catch my drift.
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since the cooler weather, i have noticed a short squeal on start after sitting for a while and a squeal when i turn the steering wheel to full lock either direction. question, is the squeal at full lock normal for our cars?
another question, when adjusting the ps belt, do you all use a tool to put tension on the belt till you tighten it or do you just pull back with your hand? I am thinking and hoping the belt just needs a tad more tension on it.
i replaced belts about 2 months ago with gates brand- replaced originals with 30k miles on them. I had squeaking before while running which the belt change fixed.
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My steering wheel locked up on me after i parked it it now says steering defective workshop..... I can't start it nor change gears it does nothing...the battery in the remote is fine what do i do?
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My steering wheel and ignition locked up 2 days ago. I tried turning the wheel and the ignition at the same time, tried the brakes, tried shifting gears and anything else i could think of. I think the problem might be with the ignition coils, or multiple ones, but i have bypassed that by hot-wiring the car(which was a pain because of all the anti-theft features).
So I have the car running now and it is almost drivable except the steering wheel is locked up. I need to know how to fix this, i have read plenty on it and i think i can break a pin that locks the steering wheel to make it work, but i don't know where this pin is(might be behind the ignitions, or attached to it somewhere). if i could do this without breaking anything that would be great, but if the car will run, I am ok with it begin broken, because i already hot-wired it so I'm not worried about breaking anything unless it will make the car not run.
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2000 Honda Accord - will go to put the key into the ignition, key slips right in, but will not turn. The steering wheel is locked. This has been happening intermittently for a few months with no improvement. Sometime it will take me 10-30 minutes of wiggling the key, turning the steering wheel, etc until the steering wheel unlocks and key turns in the ignition. My patience is wearing and I'm concerned that it will eventually get to the point where it won't turn at all! I've tried with an alternate key and same results.
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First I have to say my Santa Fe is my pride and joy, never have I enjoyed a vehicle so much but today I encountered a problem. I went out to start my car, steering wheel is locked, key in ignition won't unlock, can't turn steering wheel to unlock.
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Car 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Engine 3.8 series II 160,000 KM
Problem : The Steering wheel won't move, I can start and drive the car forward/reverse but the wheel won't move right or left?? I was planning on scrapping the car in spring 2015 but need to move the car and don't have a clue on fixing this issue.
The key cylinder is located in the dash and I don't have any passlock II codes errors when trying to start the car, My power steering pump doesn't squeal or is locked (not Burning belts) but the pump is empty. I was thinking a seized rack & pinion but have never heard of that,I should still have manual steering I'm guessing still.
[URL] ......
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter in line 6.tilt steering wheel is lock in one position. The handle that you release to move the steering wheel up or down don't have any tension on it.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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