Accent MC (2006-11) :: Started Burning Oil At Startup / Hard Right Turns
Apr 6, 2014
After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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So I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
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I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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My car is 2008 Sonata GLS 2.4L. Recently the ESC off light turns on always when I drive a while after started the car. It still drives fine. But I have concerns of safety issues.
I heard it's a common issue for Sonata even 2011 model. I also heard Hyundai recalls for a system upgrade because of ESC off light problem. If it's true, will the dealership do it for my 2008 pre-owned Sonata for free?
It drives fine, but anyway it could be an potential safety issue. So should I drive the car to the dealership to have it fixed? I heard may owners spent a lot of time and money but never have it fixed.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent automatic. For the past few months, every time I start up my car it makes a horrible squealing sound. This sound also occurs when I'm backing out of my parking space and when I do turns. A few times when I'm doing turns the steering seems to lock up a bit and it gets really difficult to steer. I had numerous people check under the hood and they say that the pulley is seizing every time I turn the steering wheel left or right while it's making that squealing noise. I have had all three belts replaced and a new alternator installed last year. The belts have been checked numerous times since they been replaced. The power steering fluid has been a changed as well. Do I need a new steering pump? Or is the problem something else.
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A week ago I started getting a quick clicking sound from my front end, it speeds up when I accelerate, but it goes away after driving for ~1-2 minutes. Also I get squealing on the front end whenever I start up. Usually neither happen if I just stop for a minute and start driving again, it's just the first drive of the day when it happens usually. I'm guessing a belt but really not sure..
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2009 Accent with a manual transmission
I am at about 65K miles so far. I changed my oil last night like I normally do. The car was on rhino ramps and as I started the car to back off the ramps, I noticed a very audible, "Tap tap tap" noise on start up, only. It goes away a second after I let off the key turn once the engine catches.
It did this when I backed it off the ramps and then when I shut the car off and waited a minute to check for it again on level ground and the same thing happened. Only two times and it has been quite as a mouse on start up since ever since. I want to say it is starter related as the noise sounds like a rapid tapping that slows and immediately stops as if the starting gear that engaged the flywheel is slowing to a stop once disengaged.
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I have a 07 accent coupe That is giving me a little bit of trouble. This morning when I started the car, it ran for about a minute and then quietly stalled. No hesitating or sputtering, just turned off as if I turned the ignition off.
So I tried to restart but it won't fire, i can crank it just fine and I have gas, so I'm not sure what could be the problem.
Sometimes though, when I fill up my gas tank. The car will splutter and try to stall for the first 30 seconds. I have to keep the throttle-up to keep it from stalling. But that only happens occasionally when I fill the gas tank.
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2006 Hyundai Accent
About two weeks ago I was told my tires were worn and I was experiencing what felt like a slight slipping sensation when turning corners on the highway. Mechanic chalked this up to my tires being worn. They checked them out and my passenger rear tire was significantly worn on the inside tread...
I replaced all four tires...I have checked the pressure and it is at 30psi as indicated on the inside of the driver side door.
Now when I'm driving on the highway I experience what can be described as a rocking sensation (as if you were on a boat) sometimes when driving straight and almost always when making left turns....once the rocking starts if I slightly turn the wheel to the right it goes away.
I'm thinking something with the rear passenger side is causing this as the compensation would appear on the drivers front (correct?!) and the worn tire gives it away...just wondering what component I should start looking at first and what cost I might be looking at.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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since the cooler weather, i have noticed a short squeal on start after sitting for a while and a squeal when i turn the steering wheel to full lock either direction. question, is the squeal at full lock normal for our cars?
another question, when adjusting the ps belt, do you all use a tool to put tension on the belt till you tighten it or do you just pull back with your hand? I am thinking and hoping the belt just needs a tad more tension on it.
i replaced belts about 2 months ago with gates brand- replaced originals with 30k miles on them. I had squeaking before while running which the belt change fixed.
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Heard a wining noise from the front end when I accelerated about 4 days ago, fast forward to today - it kept getting worse and worse, turning into a grinding. The mechanic said to replace the power steering line and something else around it..
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2008 Hyundai 4 door accent, red "air bag" light turns on with turn of key, goes off for 2 seconds, then lights back up and remains on...
Thought maybe it was because i left the back seat folded down for almost a week, but since then i have placed it back completely into position. Disconnected the battery and re-connected it, still stays on..
I have also driving almost 200 miles with the seat back in normal position, was hoping it would re-set by now.. I recently installed a stereo system in the car, everything got hooked up to the factory stereo, and the light didn't come on for almost 2 weeks after the install.. Could it be because of the back seat being folded down?
My subs hit pretty hard, could this be enough to trigger some sensor? I have two Rockford Fosgate 12" P2 subs, powered by a RF 1000 watt amp. I've asked many Car Audio specialist about air-bags deploying from hard hitting bass, and i pretty much got laughed at every time, none of them have ever herd of it happening, and i would think by now there would be some videos on you-tube of this happening.. I cant find anything anywhere saying airbags have ever been deployed from hard hitting bass...
I've also herd moving the front seats forward and back could trip some kind of sensor? My fiance is only 5'2 and i am 6' and its our only car so needless to say the seat gets moved quite often.. I know i should go to the dealer and have it hooked up to the "code reader" .. Just don't want to look stupid when i show up..
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Our second car is a 2007 Accent, 125KM's (70 miles). Today the engine light came on, I drove it very slowly to my indy mechanic and she is not throwing any codes. Engine temp was fine and she just had an oil change.
Engine light turned itself off so I drive it home and on the way it's all good then suddenly .... she dies. She starts again and I get home, i idle in the driveway and she stays on but a little rough as she is sitting at 800RPM, is this right or a little low?
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I have an 08 AWD GS350 ...
For the last few months, it has been squeaking whenever I make hard left turns, (into parking spaces etc, usually low speed). I thought it was the brakes, but just replaced all 4 pads and all 4 rotors. So that officially eliminates that.
The car doesn't have any unusual vibration, tracks straight, so I don't think its a wheel bearing or anything. I jacked the car up and tried to shake the tire/wheel to see if there was any play but don't see anything.
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I have an Accent 2008 model and i have a problem with the steering of my car. Sometimes the EPS lamp indicator turns on and the electric motor stop working. I stop the engine of my car and i turn it on again and everything is ok. Is any solution or i must change the whole steering system as Hyundai said?
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I have a 2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model) with 102k km (63K miles). Recently, I am noticing a rotational metal-like grinding noise from the front left wheel / engine area when engaging in hard right and left turns - usually a long looped highway on-ramp or sharp 90 degree turns. The interesting thing is this only happens when I am accelerating through the turns - when I left off the gas and cruise I don't hear it anymore.
On the side, I am also getting a single clunk noise when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is related (i.e. if this is all related to a failing CV joint or wheel bearing).
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Just changed second timing belt on my Accent. When starting it up afterwards it stuttered then started up. Ran fine for 10 minutes parked it and went inside. Came out 10 minutes later and same thing stuttered to start but it did second time. CEL came on P0016. I know what the code is after looking it up, but I'm sure that the timing belt is set on TDC. Could it really be the camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor? Didn't go anywhere near it when changing the belt.
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Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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