Accent MC (2006-11) :: Significant Loss Of Power
Dec 28, 2014
Accent 2008, 130000km
For several days my accent has quite a significant loss of power (I have trouble reaching 100km h) and the check engine is on. At the beginning I thought it was a coil that was lacking but I have verified and 4 are ok. I verified the check engine codes and got the code 420 inches and po172. po = 420 capacity threshold and lower catalyst po = 172 system too rich .... I do not know what to do with that! can you recommend me a good Mechanic on the south shore of mtl.
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I have lost significant power to my 2001 B5 1.8T, my first though is that it was the turbo, i took it to a mechanic who said it could either be the CAT or the Turbo but wants to charge me two hours of labor to find out. Is there any simple way to determine what is the source of my lack of power? I know the turbo is not working at all but the mechanic said that it could be because of a dead CAT and the turbo could actually be fine. I do not have any fault codes which makes this even more strange. Also even with the lack of power I have still been driving it because I need a car, what's the potential harm. The car runs normally, its just slow, it doesn't make funny noises or anything.
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Getting DTC P0401 on my 2011 with 92K miles. First time I got the CEL, we were on vacation, so I read the code, took a screen shot, then cleared it. Called my normal dealer, setup an appt, verified that they thought the truck was safe to drive. Coming home from vacation, I was pulling the TT in my sig, and noticed significant loss of power on hills that I have pulled many times before that I couldnt even hold 55 on now. Transmission dropped into 4th a couple times, on hills that it would sometimes stay in 6th, or at most drop to 5th.
CEL stayed off for a week , and came back on again. The funny thing is that after a day or 2, the CEL went back out on its own. I read the codes the P0401 is still there as a stored code(I did not clear this time). Around town the truck drives fine, the only thing I noticed was the decrease in power when towing. Truck is at the dealer now. TECH "isn't convinced" yet that there is a problem. He is not finished diagnosing yet, and I am sure that he has specific tests to run, but I am starting to fear that I will be getting the call to come get my truck.
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After I drive a while I get a ticking , loss of power very briefly, white puff of smoke. Could it be rod bearings? Timing belt just replaced.
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My mother owns a 1996 Olds Eighty-Eight that has developed a magical ability plus another problem that multiple mechanics have failed to solve. Magic: The car, a few miles after an oil change and verifying the correct amount of oil was put in at the change, magically generates more oil to the point the level on the stick doubles. Problem: At the same time, the car has significant loss of transmission fluid, but no leak large enough to account for the loss. I suspect the two are linked, and one mechanic even said that there was a valve or something that could go bad or get stuck and allow the transmission fluid to get pulled into the oil, but no one has been able to definitively reach an answer or fix the issue.
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So, I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has had the CEL light on ever since I have owned it (about 7 months). I was told it was the O2 sensor and did not have it scanned. Occasionally, it would lose power and the CEL would blink. After I would take my foot off of the pedal and baby it for a sec it would usually go solid again and drive okay. About 2 weeks ago it started blinking constantly and it sputters and drives like sh*t. Now, I know that I should take it to Autozone or someplace so that they can tell me which cylinder is misfiring and all, but it is really sketchy to drive. I put NGK spark plugs in it today with no change. I ordered plug wires and a coil pack to see if that straightens out the problem. If it doesn't then I am going to lean towards intake gasket or perhaps a missing or bad o-ring at an injector. So, does this sound like a reasonable plan of attack to get rid of the blinking CEL (misfire) and restore my Accent back to all of its craptastic glory?
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Bought my first Hyundai, a 2013 Accent last Saturday. Love almost everything about the vehicle.
It is equipped with the EcoBoost which I can turn on and off.
Noticing when I accelerate almost every time there is some initial acceleration and then a noticeable power loss. It's much worse when I'm accelerating through a turn.
Honestly it's hard to tell too much of a difference with the EcoBoost and AC off.
Also noticing the car really surges at times with the cruise control on. Obviously if I hit an incline it's going to boost a bit, but sometimes even on very minor inclines or straightaways the RPMS just fluctuate more than they seem to need to.
Wondering if this is normal for this engine and something I need to get used to. Coming from a Honda Civic I didn't experience this consistent power loss / fluctuation.
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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I have a 00 Accent with 132k miles, I replaced the motor a year ago with a correct 2000 Hyundai 1.5 with 50k miles. I replaced everything that I could at the time, timing belt , starter, water pump, and clutch. It has been running fantastic getting 40 miles per gallon with zero problems , However in the last week I have noticed a rough idle that seems to miss with a vibration that it didn't have before. I have a noticeable loss of power and torque. My miles per gallon has also dropped to about 25 mpg. My check engine light is not on. I will check the plugs and change the air filter today but I would like to know what else could be causing the problem as I am not really sure what to check.
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I have a 2002 accent, 1.5L 16v. So the story is the other day my fiance was driving home and about 200m after she took off, the front wheels chirped all of a sudden and then she noticed it was lacking power. It was still moving along ok and got her home, however it didn't have enough grunt to even get up our steep driveway. I went outside and turned the car off and on again, then all of a sudden the problem was gone and the car drove fine up our driveway. To me this sounded like a sensor or computer issue, although no warning lights are coming up on the dash at all. The next day when driving it, it gradually lost more and more power as the drive went on, but didn't seem as bad as the first day. And again turning the engine off and on again seems to resolve the problem short term. My only thoughts are possibly the maf sensor or the trp sensor. But I'm not really sure.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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2004 Accent 1.6L
Changed the timing belt and water pump this past weekend. I made sure the timing marks aligned before I put the belts on. They were still aligned after turning the engine by hand and still aligned after taking the car out for a test drive. I did not notice rough idle when I started the engine in the garage nor did I notice a rough idle during the test drive.
A few days later I am now noticing the car will idle roughly when I come to a stop. The idle will get rough enough to gently shake the car. No engine light and no unusual noise from the engine.
I am going to check the timing marks again tonight. I suspect the belt may actually be off by one tooth. I have driven over 100 miles since changing the belt so I don't believe it is off anymore than one tooth or else I presume I'd probably have already broken down or been hearing unusual noises.
Furthermore, I do not seem to have any loss in power. I still have good acceleration and no roughness unless at idle engine speed. I do, however, run rough at higher speeds (75+ mph) on the highway, but this was present before the timing belt change. Unfortunately the car does not have an RPM gauge.
Having said all of this, are there any other possible reasons why I might be idling rough now?
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My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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I have a 2006 S6 2.5T. My car drove fine 3 miles to school drop-off, where I turned off my car. 5 minutes later, I restarted the car but it stuttered significantly in idle for a minute or two.
It drove fine but within a mile I noticed a yellow check engine light and green engine system service required. Haven't had this problem previously. Some background, that might be not be important:
- I recently had a 75k service and have driven approx 500 miles since.
- The car was not driven for 1 week until yesterday, when I drove ~6 miles.
- I noticed my cruise control was on, or at least the indicator was ... I certainly didn't turn on cruise control purposely.
- Temperature approx 45 degrees, no rain
Is this something I need to see my mechanic about urgently? I need to drive 50 miles later today.
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Got this nugget this morning after dropping my daughter off at school. I also noticed a significant reduction in power. Had to get fuel so while pumping, I checked the code with my WiFi reader and Engine Link app.
Got the code number which came up with this: 6.7L ? MIL on with DTCs P208E P218F P204F ? 2011-2016 Ford F-Super Duty
I decided to clear the code and see if it would instantly return which it didn't. Power came back as soon as it was cleared too. Will see if it comes back. Looks like the code is saying there might be crystals on my DEF injector. I did have a regen last night right before I parked for the evening and then this showed showed up first thing this morning. Would a DEF injector nozzle be covered under the emissions warranty if it comes back?
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well I don't exactly know if that's what I should call it... I was driving last night around 10 and I pushed the gas down 3/4 of the way or so to pass around this car but instead of downshifting and accelerating, it just revved up all the way, i kept hitting the gas and it was like revving it in neutral then it kicked back into gear... should i be concerned? It was fine the rest of the night but I wasn't driving it hard.
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What's going on with my sonata. Its an 06 GLS 4 cylinder, 168k miles. I've actually had the problem before, and it lasted maybe about a week or two before the car went back to normal by itself. But a couple days ago it has returned. The car barely goes! All it wants to do is rev and not go. Coming from a complete stop is the worse, as it takes me forever to get up there in speed. I already feel like a danger on the road by sometimes not being able to keep up with traffic. Once I get up there in speed I'm able to keep it at that. I thought it was maybe the spark plugs last time, so I changed them, but that didn't seem to be it. I know the car has electrical issues, now I'm just thinking its that since its done it before and went back to normal. I took a video to get a better idea of what its like. [URL] ....
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I was cruising on the highway and tried to accelerate and no more power. Could feel engine losing power. After I shutdown the car and start again, car was fine.
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I recently purchased a used GS350 AWD.After purchasing it, I replaced all of the wheel bearing hub assemblies. The rear ones were grinding, and I decided to just do all 4 at the same time.
After swapping the hub assemblies, the slip indicator light comes on when I go 55+ mph. It's usually when I push on the accelerator. It's not always on. It goes on, then turns off for a while. Sometimes when accelerating it doesn't come on at all. When the light turns on, I loose power for a few seconds but I don't hear or feel any braking.
I have tried an alignment, reset the YAW sensor, etc. The mechanic had a very expensive snap on diagnostic computer and he said everything seems to check out. The steering angle is good, acceleration looks good.
I'm thinking that either one of the hub assemblies has a slight defect that affects the ABS sensors, my VSC computer needs replacing, or YAW sensor starting to go bad.
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Purchased a used 2006 prius with ~180K miles on it from south bay a few months ago. At the time of purchase the guy warned us that it 'ate' motor oil.
After 2 months of driving without issues (driven couple of hundred miles), on an uphill road the engine overheats and throws the red triangle, vsc and check engine lights on the dash, along with loss of power. After cool down I check oil level and sure enough it is low, since this is on top of a hill we essentially coast all the way back home without any real issues. Once home I top up the oil. I do a test drive around the block without issues (no loss of power) though the check engine/red triangle/vsc lights are still on. But after I take it for a longer drive the loss of power returns.
Since my bluetooth obd2 connector wasn't working I borrow one from my friend and try to get a read. Unfortunately the thing puts out no obd2 error codes. Living in the bay area I apparently cant just take it to an autozone, to get code readings. I take it to meineke auto repair, they too are unable to get an obd2 read, and want to charge me $100 for a full reading, which I decline.
I do a few diagnostics steps including 'resetting' the computer by leaving it off of the 12v battery for a few mins, this clears the red triangle et al on restart. I do a test drive, at first everything is working just fine, but after about 10 mins or so of driving the red triangle/check engine/vsc lights returns, along with loss of power. (under ~20 mph only, cant go uphill).
Take it to a mechanic and they come back with code: "APOA92. Trans Axel issue - MG1 performance is off. Measured torque is different than executed torque, enough to be a problem. 95% sure it is the transmission." I still haven't checked the 12v battery.
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My wife was driving yesterday from work and suddenly felt the steering becoming hard to steer so she was able to drive home but barely made it to our driveway (very hard to steer). I saw fluid dripping down the right side of the car. I opened the hood and saw lots of brown fluid spilled all over. Power steering fluid reservoir was empty. So my question is, is this primarily caused by power steering pump failure causing spillage of fluid contaminating the drive belt causing it to slip (car overheated a little bit) or Serpentine belt failure (120,000 miles with original belt) causing power steering pump to fail and eventually leak fluid.
Photos: [URL] .....
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