Accent MC (2006-11) :: Shuttered And Stopped Accelerating And Now Won't Start
Nov 18, 2013
I was driving my Accent yesterday when suddenly it shuttered and stopped accelerating, it was still on because my RPM gauge would move when I hit the gas, when I went to pull over it was very difficult almost as if my power steering was not working. Now that it is off it will not start, it cranks but will not turn over. We tried a new battery, but that did not work. What it most likely is, I have 109k miles on it.
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About 2 weeks ago my Elantra began displaying the symptom of struggling to start after fueling. The check engine light came on with P0170/P0171 codes for fuel trim malfunction. Did my research and replaced the fuel pump. After this, the car struggled to start all the time until after a few days, while I was driving, the car struggled to accelerate and jerked like crazy trying to. Did more research and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. After this the car drove beautifully for about an hour and then again stopped accelerating, jerking like crazy and lost all speed. Error code P0441 Evaporative Emissions now was the only one on. I filled the gas tank (it had been low) and for another hour the car was fine and then the trouble started again. After turning it off the car would not start at all. Now I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor but that did not fix it. All the relays and sensors look good. What to do next. It still won't start.
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Have an Accent 2006 manual drive. Had this problem 3 times after considerable gaps.
First time, driving normally during the day, stopped for fuel. Switched off ignition, filled up, then suddenly did not start. Turned over but did not start. About after 3 minutes of trying (sometimes continuously and sometimes keeping a short break), started normally and I was off. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing. Did not mention to the service center during regular servicing as thought it was a one off incident.
Second time, several months after first incident, a warm and sunny day, went for a pollution test. Parked to wait. Was called for the test. Started and went over, completed and parked again to wait for the certificate. Got it in about 15 minutes. Then again, turned over normally but did not start. This time, battery died after several tries. So I had some people push and it started first time and I carried on. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Third time, about 2 months from the second incident, was driving normally in the early evening with no issues during the morning/day. Slowed down at a pothole in the road, and the engine just died. Turned over normally but did not start despite several tries. So while preserving the battery, I had some people push the car confident as in the second time that the car would start. But did not even after several tries. So while pondering what to do at the side of the road, after about 10 minutes, gave it another shot. Turned over and started normally on first try as if nothing had happened. No error/warning light, etc. Nothing.
Has been about a month since, no problems. Just takes a wee bit longer than usual to start.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L V3 Lariat with 90,000 miles on it. For about 5-6 months now I have noticed a strong sputtering when I am driving at low RPM's around the 44-50 mph range. When I lightly give it gas the sputtering begins and doesn't cease until I accelerate out of the current gear into a higher RPM/speed. This has become more pronounced over the last few weeks so my mechanic replaced the fuel flter and checked to make sure the pump was working as well. We also added some 5w-30 oil to make it full, even though 5-20 is preferred.
Truck ran smooth initially but then it got worse with the sputtering. A couple of days later I filled up my gas tank and as I pulled out of the station my truck shuttered alot and died. the CEL came on, LOP came on, and even the low tire pressure light came on. The truck will not start now, but it cranks smooth and strong until the battery loses power. I had the truck towed and then we reset the gas shut of toggle, sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, and checked all fuses, as well as the fuel pump engagement. Still no ignition. Next we replaced all spark plugs(4.5 hours later). Still no ignition. Only CEL light and low tire pressure light. I bought it used less than 18 months ago?
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2010 Hyundai Accent GLS (automatic)
Just noticed the last few days that my car has developed a shake when accelerating, but stops after a certain speed. It isn't bad yet, but when I started going up a hill today it was significantly worse. The entire car started shaking, but stop after the car leveled out.
I just put in a new front left and right axle two weeks ago, would that have caused anything ?
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I have a lateral vibration while accelerating between 40-60MPH. There is no vibration if the car is at constant speed, decelerating or if I drive, at that speed, with the clutch depressed.
The problem persists in spite of having aligned and balanced the tyres, a few days back. Subsequently, I again rotated the tyres because the mechanic insisted that it was a tyre and rim issue. But no luck! The tyres are in great condition and the rims aren't damaged.
Visual inspection of the under body also revealed no obvious problems except for slightly leaky rear shocks.
The car is a 2009, Hyundai Accent sedan, 1.4 litre petrol.
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I have a 2010 accent 2.0 with 110k. When accelerating from a stop it seems to hesitate or miss in the first 20 ft or so. The service engine light has not come on which indicates to me it's not in the emission sensors. Where to start looking?
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I purchased a 2007 Sonata with the 3.3L about six months ago. I really like the car, it has a lot of good features and lots of power; however, I am starting to have problems with the car. On accelerating from a stopped position the car almost quits (hesitates severely) and then picks up and goes on normally. Also, between 40 and 50 mph the car starts to jerk pretty hard for a few seconds and then it straightens out and runs normally again; it will do this repeatedly if it is kept between 40 and 50 mph.
When this first started happening the CEL would come on randomly and stay on for a day or two and then go off. While the CEL was on I took it to Autozone and had them pull the code, they said it was the crankshaft position sensor. Well based on the symptoms the diagnosis made sense. I replaced the sensor and the car seemed to be running normally on the 30 minute test drive. The next day my wife drove to work and she said the same symptoms had come back. It has been several weeks since I replaced the sensor and the CEL has not come back on. I have seen several postings about the spark plugs and wires and that is my next step. BTW the car has 94k miles.
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My 2007 Hyundai Accent gs shakes really bad while I am accelerating at lower speeds. I thought the front driver's side tire was loose or possibly had an air bubble, but could find no evidence of such. The rim and the tie rod looks fine, but it is shaking bad. It pretty much stops shaking when i reach higher speeds (60+mph), but when I am stopped and need to accelerate or turn it gets frightening.
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My wife recently bought an automatic 2007 Accent. And I'm in charge of fixing some issues, then of course eventually upgrading some parts.
Now here's the first issue. I notice this strange sound like something is loose and rattling coming from the driver side not sure if it's from the inside or under the hood.
Only happens when the car is stopped, brake pressed, and in Drive. Put the car in reverse, park, neutral, no sound. Also no sound when in D but only when the handbrake is engaged and the brake pedal is depressed.
The car runs smooth, tranny shifts good, sluggish acceleration though. I drive a 2.4L turbo car so maybe this is just normal for the 1.6 Accent.
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So, yesterday, when I stopped at red light, my car just turned off. I tried to turn it on, but I couldn't. I kept trying, and after 30th try it turned on. I had this same problem month ago, but it disappeared until now. I can turn it on by pushing when it happens. Is it fuel pump? Or some sensor?
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My 2007 Accent just quit running setting in traffic. Checked fuel pump fuses and relay, all ok. What else could it be? Has 100,000 miles on it. Just turned over yesterday.
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My friend has a 2007 accent with a manual transmission they said that they were driving and the transmission stopped shifting gears. The clutch pedal still has pressure so I don't think it is a master or slave cylinder issue. They freaked out and turned off the car and now the car will not start up again. Have any of you experienced anything like this before or know on this car where to start looking? I think the issue with not being able to switch gears could be a pressure plate issue but this would not cause the car not to start.
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Suddenly my brake lights quit. Press the brake and nothing. Turn on the headlights and the rear lights turn on. Press the brake and no change. It's like I am not pressing the brake. What are the first things I should check?
2008 Accent GLS 66,000 miles
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I'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
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I have the base model GLS, but I put fogs in and hard wired them to the battery. They've been on for about 2 years now, and yesterday I went to turn my switch on under my dash and they didn't work. Fuse is fine, wires are fine, and the bulbs look fine. I'm still thinking its the bulbs though because the other day I put my header back on and I think the bulbs hit floor and kinda bent from the contact, so I'm thinking that might be it.
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Today I was informed by a passing motorist that my brake lights had stopped working. Upon checking, they were right. The lights do not come on at all when the brake is pushed, including the center one. When my headlights are on thought, they do light up, just do not brighten when the brakes are hit.
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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Got a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
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My taillights, reverse lights and brake lights all stopped working! What the problem is. The fuses are fine and the bulbs are good too. How to fix this or what I should look for to try to fix it?
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Ok so I have I 2007 hyundai accent with a weird problem. When the car is in normal operating temperature (180-210) and stopped at a stoplight or stop sign the car will have a fluctuating idle. This problem only happens when the car is at idle and with the heat or air conditioning on. With the heat and the air condition off the car will do it once in a great while. Things I have done so far. Replace the pcv valve clean the egr. To me it sounds like a voltage problem like the car is having too much load at idle. But I am unsure. Took it to a mechanic the other day and he couldn't replicate the problem.
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