Accent MC (2006-11) :: Running Very Rough / Won't Pass 3000 RPM
Apr 2, 2013
I have a 2008 Accent 1.6L automatic that is running very rough when it accelerates. First of all there was some engine check light, I got the codes and it was a Cylinder misfire. Then I checked the following:
1.- Spark plugs (replaced them same NGK but I didn't gaped them, same result)
2.- Fuel injectors (removed them, cleaned them and installed in different order, same result)
3.- IGN coils (measure resistance, swap them in different places, same result)
4.- Checked most of the sensors including TPS, Crankshaft PS, MAF, Camshaft PS and nothing.
5.- I checked for any type of vacuum leak and I couldn't find one
After all that troubleshooting I cleaned the codes, started the car again and I have the same problem with no check engine lights on except that sometimes I would get a "running rich" code.
I also noticed that the air intake is LOUD like a performance air intake, is that something normal on the accent? (I checked the air filter and its not clogged FYI). I could only think of:
Gap spark plugs to .035
check timing belt
check fuel filter (I don't think so)
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So, I have a 2016 Elantra SE Auto w/ 26k miles, I have 1k miles life until my next oil change.
Since about Saturday, whenever I accelerate, around 3k RPM - 4k RPM it's running/ sounding really rough! Not sure what's causing that, I checked my air filter earlier that day & put it right back in, also put in some HID lights in. I thought maybe the containment cover or gasket around the filter wasn't seeded properly, but everything checks out. I'm pretty car savy, so I know this isn't normal for brand new cars. Doesn't seem like it's loosing power, I still get pretty quick throttle response when I really gas it!
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The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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Check engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.
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A few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
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My 2000 Accent 1.3 has developed a problem recently: starts fine and revs freely and smoothly when parked. When I pull away it will get very rough like it's firing on only 2 cylinders or so, at certain points during the rev range rather than continuously. Very juddery.
After a minute or so, before the engine temp is even up to normal operating temp (according to the dial) it runs perfectly. When I start it up later the same day it's fine. It only happens the first time in a day that I use it. The more days I go without driving it the worse it is.
In the last couple of years I've changed spark plugs (always in good condition when I replace them), HT leads, coil pack, a lamda sensor (the first after the exhaust downpipe) and a fuel pump and filter.
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I have a 2000 LC that has a few symptoms - intermittent misfire/running rough at these times it has:
dark smoke
uses 3 times the fuel
loss of power (to normal)
will pick up revs slow without running rough and runs normal at high revs.
dies misses and then picks up revs slowly when accelerator is pushed fast to the floor from idle.
Hyundai mechanics checked computer and it coded change spark plug leads this did not fix the problem, and have no idea.
About 6 months ago the car was doing the intermittent thing when it died and liquid was heard splashing on the ground. I found the main petrol line connecting to the pump had come completely off. After replacing all problems ceased and the car ran perfect with full power etc.
I've checked the fuel lines none appear to be leaking etc.
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Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
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My 2007 gs350 is acting up lately, I was on freeway doing around 70mph but speed needle only pointed at 40mph on the gauge. Could it be speed sensor?
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
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Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
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I had a valve job on my 2006 Bmw 750 li, when I picked the car up from the shop the engine was loud ,before the job it was quiet couldn't tell the car was on , it also shakes back and forth while idling at every stop light,and when I take my foot off the gas the engine kind of jerks I have taking it back to the shop several times and they seem to not know what it could be they have recalibrated the valves and it seems to not shake soon after I leave but right when I'm a mile or so away it starts to shake again, what could be causing this? I'm pxxxed I paid them close to 4000 to replace the valves and now the car is running rough.
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My 2007 Accent just quit running setting in traffic. Checked fuel pump fuses and relay, all ok. What else could it be? Has 100,000 miles on it. Just turned over yesterday.
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I have Hyndai accent Sep-2009 executive model. I have fitted normal CNG kit in my car. I ran it very smoothly for 6 months. Now my car is missing when I am running on petrol but running fine with CNG. If I am removing the battery cable and leave it 4-5 minutes its running fine for 2-10 days, after 7-10 days I am getting the same issue and doing the same procedure for solution.
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This morning my son started the 2008 Accent and it ran really bad, he shut if off started it again and still ran really bad and check engine light started to flash. Shut it off and ran for the bus to school.
Went and picked up a OBD scanner and found a cylinder 1 misfire. Tried to start it and had a really hard time and when it did start ran like crap and smelled gas. Checked the codes again and now got Multiple cylinder misfires, cylinder 4 misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
Pulled the engine cover to pull the coils and plugs and I find a ton of mouse crap. No signs of any chewed wires or anything that I could see. Drove it to the local Hyundai dealer tonight because I am worried that it may not be the coil packs. Drove OK to the dealer. My brother is the service manager at the local Mazda dealer and he sees a lot of mouse damage. Said I should put a couple of old socks with moth balls in the engine compartment to deter the mice.
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I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Accent that won't start. My wife was driving home the other day, and while she was sitting at the light she said she noticed a sudden change in the idle. She said the car starting shaking a little and idling really rough. When she tried to accelerate after the light changed, she said the car sputtered and would barely go.
She was only a couple of blocks from the house so she continued home. The car made it the rest of the way home, but she said it never went over about 5 mph even though she was pressing the accelerator as she would if she were going about 30...the car just never responded. When she pulled into the garage the car died as she was turning. Now it will crank but it won't start at all.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor with my multimeter and it was bad. I bought a new one and put it on, and I tested it immediately. The new one works, so I plugged everything back in and tried to start the car...nothing, just cranks and won't start. It's getting fuel and fire as well (tested both), but it's not hitting on any of the cylinders.
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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So, back when my car was my dad's, he used to drive a lot on the freeway for his job. He said that after getting off the freeway and transitioning to in-city driving, the transmission would start to act up. It only happened when the car was hot, and it's generally fine for just driving a couple miles to work like I do, albeit the occasional rough shift every now and again, but I'd like to be able to hit the freeway if I need to without worrying about the transmission badly misbehaving.
Also, I'm not sure if it's even relevant to that issue, but I've been aware of the fact that at least two of my ignition coils are bad, a common problem in MC Accents to my knowledge, and the engine hasn't been running as smoothly as it could be for the past several months. Is it at all possible that a long-standing misfire issue could play havoc with shifting patterns when the transmission changes from freeway to in-city shifting behavior?
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Two big issues of concern with my newly purchased used Accent with 40k on it.
When starting the car first thing in the morning, when I drive the car out my drive way in reverse, it feels like it runs a little rough in reverse. Nothing dramatic, but still strangely rough to cause me a little concern. The rest of the day i only have to reverse briefly from parking spaces, so i dont really notice it then. Is this normal? My driveway is also at a slight downhill angle, which may be related to the roughness?
My second big concern, is my AC makes a very low, hardly audible, but still noticeable growling sound. It is most noticeable after the car has been sitting a few hours, then I start it, and if I wait for about 30 seconds, I hear it growl for about 10 seconds. While driving the car around I hear it sporadically make the sound then too. It isn't consistent enough to say I hear it every certain amount of time. Its very random, except I always hear it after it's been sitting for a long time.
I can hear the sound best when the fan is set to Level 1. Turning it up to Level 4 doesn't make the growl louder, but it makes the fan so loud that its harder to hear the growl. Also, when I have it at level 1, and turn the AC button off, the growl goes away. It's concerning to me, and when I took it to the dealership, it wouldn't make the growl sound when the guy listened.
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