Accent MC (2006-11) :: Rapid Tapping Noise On Startup Only
Nov 24, 2013
2009 Accent with a manual transmission
I am at about 65K miles so far. I changed my oil last night like I normally do. The car was on rhino ramps and as I started the car to back off the ramps, I noticed a very audible, "Tap tap tap" noise on start up, only. It goes away a second after I let off the key turn once the engine catches.
It did this when I backed it off the ramps and then when I shut the car off and waited a minute to check for it again on level ground and the same thing happened. Only two times and it has been quite as a mouse on start up since ever since. I want to say it is starter related as the noise sounds like a rapid tapping that slows and immediately stops as if the starting gear that engaged the flywheel is slowing to a stop once disengaged.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent automatic. For the past few months, every time I start up my car it makes a horrible squealing sound. This sound also occurs when I'm backing out of my parking space and when I do turns. A few times when I'm doing turns the steering seems to lock up a bit and it gets really difficult to steer. I had numerous people check under the hood and they say that the pulley is seizing every time I turn the steering wheel left or right while it's making that squealing noise. I have had all three belts replaced and a new alternator installed last year. The belts have been checked numerous times since they been replaced. The power steering fluid has been a changed as well. Do I need a new steering pump? Or is the problem something else.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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I have a loud tapping noise in my 07 5.4 triton. when its really cold on the first start up I cant here the noise but when it gets warm its tap tap tap again.
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Came off the highway just now and there's a tapping sound coming from the engine. It's louder than the ticking these engines make so believe me it's nothing I've heard before. No codes, no overheating and doesn't seem to be anything else wrong. I am due for an oil change soon and I'm wondering if that could be it?
The engine wasn't cold obviously. I did shut off the car and then back on and it still did it. Just want to make sure my engine isn't going to explode anytime soon!
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I have a 2010 Accent. My Accent has a tapping sound when the engine is cold. I have read on this site that others have had this problems and it was the chain tensioner. I was wondering if this was something Hyundia would fix for free or how much it cost to get this fixed. Is there a recall for this problem? There appears to be a problem with a chain tensioner on the 2010 model of Accent.
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I've got a 2001 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed. Car has 105,500 miles. Whenever the car is running, it makes an irritating tapping noise somewhere on the left side of the motor. I've been told that it sounds like the timing belt, but the car runs perfectly, doesn't miss. The tapping used to go away 30 seconds to a minute after starting it, but now it's constantly there and slightly louder. The noise goes with the rpms. When the rpms are higher, the tapping is faster. I've also noticed some loss of power. I recently added some octane booster to the fuel but noticed no difference. My uncle told me it may be a main bearing starting to go out but the tapping does not have a metallic tone of any.
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I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
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I recently replaced my starter pin my Hyundai Sonata 06 v6 3.3 gls. Installing it was no real issue, but one (there is only one a single wire not the one that you fix on with a bolt and nut) of the electrical connectors from the car to the starter solenoid. The plastic around the conductor pretty much crumbled around my finger, what this connector is called specifically. Now the contacts will not contact properly so i suspect this the source of the rapid clicking issue, since my battery was fully charged. I plan to go to the junkyard too if i can find a replacement. Looking for specifics on the electrical connector?
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So this is a two-part question because that's the type of day that I'm having. 1st, I went out to start my car to find that it won't. The radio and lights come on, but it won't actually start, and makes a rapid, loud, clicking noise. I have a video of this however...
My boyfriend thought perhaps I need a jump start, so we were going to try that first but when we went to pull the latch inside the car to open the hood, we found that it doesn't work. So now we can't get the hood open.
So, I'd like to first know how I can get my hood open easily, and what may be going on with it not starting.
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I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
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A week ago I started getting a quick clicking sound from my front end, it speeds up when I accelerate, but it goes away after driving for ~1-2 minutes. Also I get squealing on the front end whenever I start up. Usually neither happen if I just stop for a minute and start driving again, it's just the first drive of the day when it happens usually. I'm guessing a belt but really not sure..
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After the -20 winter my 2009 Accent started burning oil at startup and after hard right turns. It was burning about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles. No codes ever appeared. I assumed that it was a pretty classic case of broken valve stem seals. Upon taking the valve cover off I found that there are two oil galleys leading back to the oil pan. One on the passenger side of the engine was exposed and had a large carbon deposit on the valve cover just above it indicating all the crankcase vapors were coming through that gallery and condensing. The galley was partially plugged. The other galley on the left side below the camshaft was completely plugged. Some cleaning first with a loop of welding wire and cleaning out the PCV chamber which was filled with oil has cleared up the problem. I followed with an oil change and then another change at 500 miles. I've used no oil in 1200 miles since the last change.
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I have a 07 accent coupe That is giving me a little bit of trouble. This morning when I started the car, it ran for about a minute and then quietly stalled. No hesitating or sputtering, just turned off as if I turned the ignition off.
So I tried to restart but it won't fire, i can crank it just fine and I have gas, so I'm not sure what could be the problem.
Sometimes though, when I fill up my gas tank. The car will splutter and try to stall for the first 30 seconds. I have to keep the throttle-up to keep it from stalling. But that only happens occasionally when I fill the gas tank.
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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since the cooler weather, i have noticed a short squeal on start after sitting for a while and a squeal when i turn the steering wheel to full lock either direction. question, is the squeal at full lock normal for our cars?
another question, when adjusting the ps belt, do you all use a tool to put tension on the belt till you tighten it or do you just pull back with your hand? I am thinking and hoping the belt just needs a tad more tension on it.
i replaced belts about 2 months ago with gates brand- replaced originals with 30k miles on them. I had squeaking before while running which the belt change fixed.
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While driving my 2006 Sonata yesterday I noticed a tapping noise that increased and decreased with speed. Not really loud, but audible. I looked and really didn't see anything. However, I looked earlier a little closer and noticed my left front wheel has a rubber looking belt, hose (unsure) laying across the inside part of wheel, closer to what I assume is caliper.
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My v-10 was clicking after starting (not the manifold or loose plug) until I hit the gas and it would go away so I figured I would start with an oil change and a new filter. Since I would have to drive 55 miles for a Motorcraft filter I headed for the auto parts store. I noticed on the box it said it had an anti-drain-back valve in it for startup. After some research I discovered these modular engines require that to keep the oil in the top end for start ups..................problem solved.
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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Two weeks ago my car would not start, so I had a friend try and jump the battery. This battery wouldn't hold a charge, I took it into O'Reilly Auto Parts and they said the battery was shot. I put the new battery they recommended, the car ran fine for about 5 days. I took the battery back to O'Reilly and had them test the battery, it was too low to start the car, so they charged it and sent me on my way. The car ran fine for the rest of the day. The next morning the car would not start again, so I called the auto parts store and they recommended switching out my alternator. We switched out the alternator and the car fired right up, it ran perfectly (lights, heater, radio, etc) until yesterday.
While driving down the street, I noticed the radio head unit flicker, then it shut off. The car kept driving for about 2-3 city blocks, then all the lights shut off (dash lights, headlights, tail lights, brake lights). I turned onto a side street and the car couldn't go above 10-15 mph, it seemed. The speedometer and other gauges started going berserk, followed by a ton of dash lights coming on. The car basically rolled to a stop. I put it in park, turned the key to off and had it towed to my house. When I turn the key to accessory, all the lights work, as well as the heater and radio. But when I turn the key to start the car, a rapid-clicking sound comes from under the hood.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent. Bought the car used at a lien sale over 3 years ago, with about 120k miles on it... it now has over 197k miles on it. I have changed the oil and filter religiously since I bought it, using Castrol GTX High mileage 5w30 synthetic motor oil. I have also (in the last year) replaced the plugs with platinum plugs, the plug wires, and the air filter. A the car has always made a tapping sound when idling since I bought it, but recently (in the last week), it makes little shoemaker sounds when I accelerate. I used to associate this with detonation and adjust timing (back in the day when you could put a timing light on a car and turn the distributor to set timing). Since timing is now controlled by the computer in the car, am I right in assuming that I need to replace the timing belt?
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