Accent MC (2006-11) :: Radiator Hose Replacement?
Nov 6, 2016
There were some minor coolant leakage from the upper hose radiator so I have it replaced. Took me 2 hours because the thermostat housing hose neck gunk up with white lime.
Everything works fine but the car still suffering from minor coolant lost. Found some water stain over the bypass hose neck so I get it replaced too. Took me another 2 hours to get it fix because of the white gunk buildup. Secured everything including the hose and the clamps. Minor water stain still can be found at the bypass hose neck.
Replacing the radiator hose? Does it takes few days for the new radiator hose to fit 100%?
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I'm going to be replacing my lower radiator hose so figured might as well switch over to the extended life stuff going to probably go with the Delo ELC.. Supposedly it's good for 750k.
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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It is a bit 'of time i notice that the water level goes down more than usual. Lately, the level drops from max to min in a month or so and, in addition, i smell of mold inside the car.
In the past I had the same problem on another car, and it was the tap on the radiator, which leaked. In the case of Rio/Accent, the radiator is a single body, so i suspect that will be drilled. Is it possible to remove it without completely dismantle the dashboard, as happens in many modern cars?
In the past i seem to have touched the internal radiator hoses, on the passenger side, but does not know if there's enough space to pull it off.
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
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Realized I was leaking coolant from the front passenger wheel well and bumper area. If I fill up the expansion tank it'll almost empty in about 2 days of sitting. Took to the stealership for a quick diagnostic and they said my Intercooler...(Auxilary Radiator) was leaking at the hose connections and will need to be replaced as well as the hose. I can't find a good DIY on this at all and I'm not sure which hose is connected to the Aux Radiator. So I'm wondering which hose connects to the Aux Radiator? Is there anything else I should replace or look for while I'm at it? Which hoses connect to this Second Radiator?
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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yesterday my upper radiator hose connector broke off and I replaced it filled it up with coolant and now the upper radiator hose gets really hot at normal temps while the lower hose is cold maybe and gets warm not hot or anything... I see some steam coming off the radiator but i think its all the coolant that splashed on it yesterday from the hose busting off and flooding it basically. the car does not overheat at idle or driving or anything so I am curious to what it could be
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I have 98 passat V6 and the lover radiator hose is leaking at the connector between radiator and the hose. Do I need to change the whole hose or is there maybe an o-ring that should be changed? How hard is to remove the hose? Do I have to go to the dealer?
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Is it difficult to replace the lower radiator hose on a 5.4L? I'm mainly thinking about access to the connection at the water pump.
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I have a 2000 F150 with 5.4 L motor. The last two trips I have had the top radiator hose come off while under heavy load (pulling a long hill) after 5 hours of driving. So far I have flushed the radiator, checked the thermostat, and refilled with G05 Gold and distilled water 60/40 ratio. I do not hear any gurgling in the heater core. Heater seems to work great.
The stock temp gauge shows it right in the middle range between Hot and cold, right before it blows the hose off. I have replaced top and bottom hoses and put new stainless steel clamps at all end except the top, where I am using the OEM clamp that came with the truck. I thought about replacing the top clamp as well but did not want to blow out my radiator, if in fact it is developing high pressure.
Do these clamps get weak with time? Should I use a vacuum attachment on the fill/overflow tank to remove all air before refilling?
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The inter cooler to throttle body hose and it seems to have coolant all over it.
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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I picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
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I own a Honda Crv 2000. I took the car for an oil change at a local oil change shop. They overfilled the oil. I went to the city and came back, and next day the underside of the car was oily and leaky. The car was dripping oil. I immediately siphoned out 300ml of extra oil from the car. After that the leaking stopped and it does not leak/drip anymore. At the same time I saw coolant dripping from the lower radiator hose (where it meets the radiator). I noticed when the fans come on it start dripping. But as of today the coolant dripping has stopped. I am thinking of changing the hose.
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I did all the flushing, cap, thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze, etc, fixes but when I floor it going up an on ramp on an 85 degree day it will go into limp mode / fail safe mode. Bottom hose?
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this winter i have found that my truck's heater core isn't flowing, meaning i have hot on the upper hose and the lower is luke warm and there is no heat while running down the road. I have changed the t-stat and the heater core and radiator are new as of four years ago. last year i could roast a chicken with the heat. i also have no pressure in the radiator hose at all, engine runs at normal temp, no over heat situation and i don't smell any loss of antifreeze.
1999 f-150 4.6 150k
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