Accent MC (2006-11) :: RPM Drops After New AC Compressor Installation
Sep 4, 2015
Just want to share my issue in my Accent 2009 model. I changed my AC compressor 2 days ago. When I had the new compressor installed, at first it was running normally. But after maybe 2 or 3 hours, when I am starting the engine then turn on the AC, RPM becomes lower. Sometimes it turns off the engine. That's why I need to press on the gas several times so the engine wouldn't turn off. Even when I am running, when I go on slow speed then shift to gear number 2, the rpm drops to less than 1000, needs to press the gas several times to increase rpm to make the car run faster.
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i have a 2010 hyundai accent base model with 84,000 miles, recently i fixed my misfire/P030X codes. worked fine for about a couple days then CEL P0420 code came on and performance dropped dramatically. Replaced both o2 sensors and erased codes, drove for about 50-60 miles no CEL but still bad performance. cant get over 60 MPH and sometimes drops down to maxing at 50 MPH. Looked down exhaust manifold with O2 sensor out and saw an intact honeycomb for the cat. What to try next.
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when i use the squirter for the water on the windscreen i get full pressure for a second then it drops to barely any pressure at all. I thought it was the jets so i checked them with a drawing pin and they flow fine. Are there 2 motors that operate the squirter , is it likely one has gone?
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We have a 2010 Hyundai Accent, with low miles (10,000), and the A/C Compressor is making a "growling" noise. The only way to explain the noise is when you hear a human try to immiate the sound of a dog growling. That's exactly what it sounds like.
First thing in the morning it doesn't make the noise to much, but as you drive for a bit you will start to hear it. Sometimes it's really loud, sometimes quieter. When you shut the A/C off, it will continue for a few seconds then stop.
The service department told me it was the compressor and it is, "pretty normal on the cars." How is that normal though? It sounds awful.
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2009 Accent with 103K miles, which has been good to me so far. Over the past week or so, I've noticed that when I'm driving on the highway with the A/C on, the car occasionally hesitates, maybe every minute or two. I'm guessing this is from the A/C compressor cycling on and off, but it's never done this before. Does it seem like this is the beginning of the end for the compressor? Anything else it could be?
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It does not like to stay in 5th gear, drops out to neutral. 2001 Accent Hatchback. 1.5l 5-speed
The other day it started slipping out of 5th gear on the expressway. Held good for the first 10 to 20 minutes. Afterwards I had to hold it in 5th for it to stay in gear. While holding I noticed it pushed on the shifter when applying throttle, and let up some when I let of the gas.
I inspected the pivots at the transmission. The forward / back bushing was not installed properly by the previous owner. I rigged it up better with a fender washer and cotterpin. It previously had just a pin and the bushing had expanded out. This removed the play from shifting I had previously noticed. It also halfway fixed the popping out of gear. It stays in gear a little longer, and when I put it back into 5th it stays there for a while most of the time.
I have not inspected the lubricant level yet. Where to check next?
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2004, 3 door Accent, 150K miles. This has been going on for many summers now (had an idea when driving from work). Well when I got home from work, gauge still read E, turned the car off, then back to ACC, still read E.
Opened the fuel cap, didn't hear any hissing noise or any indication that there was alot of pressure build up, put cap back on, turned to ACC, and gauge read normal.
So after a long story my question is this, is there a pressure regulator that when it over pressures, lets it vent, and what is it called and where is it located? I am thinking that regulator might be stuck closed.
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l have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
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Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
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Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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So I bought a 2006 impala SS about 2-3 months ago. After a month of having it I put flowmaster 40 series mufflers on it. Ever since I put the mufflers on I've had problems with the car stalling out at random times and then not being able to start up for around 20 mins. I took it back to the dealer and they can't seem to figure out what's wrong. It's been to the shop three different times because they thought they fixed it a couple times.
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I have a 2009 GS350.
Its Satellite radio ready, meaning it has a SAT button and it has the shark fin antenna on the roof. When you push the SAT button nothing happens. I was told I need to get the unit installed. I am assuming all the wires are run through the car and its just a simple plug and play, but I'm thinking that would be too easy. Also where does the unit get installed? Where to even look to see if the wires are there.
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
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I have purchased this front brake kit from ECS tuning and installed them on My 2006 Passat, After I installed them and took for test drive and initial breaking is good better that before bat notice some squeaking when rolling slowly like before stop light, only on light applying break pedal not if I have to hard break, I said maybe they need too wear in or so... It now more that month and squeaking is becoming worse. Is it bad kit or something else that causes this problem...?
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1) I'm assuming that since the pressure is now higher with the 20" wheels, the tire pressure sensor won't warn me unless it drops below a really low level (maybe somewhere around 28 psi). Is there any way I can set a higher threshold so that they come on at around 36 psi?
2) The tire shop that installed the wheels transferred over the sensor, but I'm not sure if they actually work since the warning light has ever came on. Do I need to take the car to the dealership for them to start working again?
Based on the my research, some people are saying that only the dealer can reset the TPS so they can start working again. Others are saying that I can reset it myself, but does this reset actually raise the threshold?
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