Accent MC (2006-11) :: Purge Control Valve Replacement In GLS
Aug 24, 2013
My 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
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So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
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I recently got a check engine light. I went and got it checked, the person said its the canister purge valve that needs to be replaced. Where it is located and the difficulty replacing it. The part is cheap and I want to replace it this weekend. 2007 elantra
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2006 Honda Element 2.4 ... I developed an unknown bad oil leak. Low oil indicator light did not come on. Highway drove it down to one qt. Now blowing blue smoke and lost power. Why my oil light did not come on?
Also, I have needed a purge control valve for quite some time. Could this of caused the oil leak?
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The purge valve keep clicking means it is fail?
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I need the PCM pinout for a 2002 F150 4.6 For the Purge Control Valve Circuit. If possible the wire schematic would be nice also. Getting code PO443 (( hard code )) I have checked battery voltage at valve connector with key on (( 12.2 volts )) valve resistance is at be 35 ohms so I'm thinking I may have a bad wire or a bad PCM .
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Where are the canister and solenoid valve located, above the tank? 2009 Sonata 2.4L ....
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For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
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Not too terribly long ago I got assistance on identifying and fixing an engine misfire on my 2009 Accent. I assumed was directly connected has cropped up again - a P0497 Low Purge Flow error has come up on the car.
We recently replaced the purge flow valve, and everything seems to be running fine - there is no visible cause for the error, and I've even tried making sure I get the fuel cap as tight as possible.
The code is not popping up constantly - this is only the second time it's come up since the misfire was fixed(without obvious symptoms I always clear a code once just to make sure it wasn't a computer glitch), and the first time it popped up on it's own was the day after I fixed the misfire. Need to know what to check to find out what's wrong and, of course, how much priority I should place on fixing this issue.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent 4-door 1.4L auto, 123,000 miles.
Before you ask: The high mileage is because it's used for a newspaper route. We(as in, myself and my father) take great efforts to keep it in as good a shape as possible given the amount of stress this puts on it - one minor deer impact aside, I think we've done a good job.
Recently(read: a week ago), we replaced the purge flow valve due to it causing stalls and difficulty starting after refueling. After a week of apparently fine operation, as I was nearing completion of the route, a very clear cylinder misfire began. Not the worst misfire I've ever heard - the car barely seemed to struggle on initial acceleration(except in reverse, which made me slightly concerned I wasn't feeling an engine issue, but a transmission issue), and only got really shaky at higher revs.
We have an OBD-II reader at home, so when I returned I plugged it and discovered not one, but TWO error codes: P0497 -low purge flow- and P0301 -Cylinder 1 misfire- with the reader listing them in that order.
Looking up information on these two being connected has turned up little support - I've only learned that either one can be cause and effect. Needless to say given timing I strongly believe that it is highly likely that we either made a mistake installing the new valve, or that the new valve was bad from the get-go.
We'll be checking the spark plugs as soon as we are able(I am about to go to sleep and my dad has work - we tag team automotive repairs since two sets of eyes and two brains can figure things out better and an extra set of hands is always good to have ready even if only one set can actually do the job), but even if the problem isn't the spark plugs, it doesn't automatically mean it's the purge valve, either - at least as I understand things.
So with the background out of the way, my questions are thus:
1) Is the spark plugs don't fix anything, what is the quickest way to figure out which error is cause and which error is effect?
2) Are there any serious risks to continuing to run the car in this state if a fix cannot be made immediately? (being able to borrow another car is possible, but problematic - need to stick with this car if safely doable)
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Replacing a heater control valve for a 2004 Jetta? My car's vents only blow hot, and I checked the cables and saw that the control arm was disconnected. I tried to put the cylinder piece back in and had some luck, but I can't get it to sit tightly in there and it keeps falling out. Also, it still wont change the temperature coming out of the vents. I assume that something broke on the inside piece that the cylinder connected to.
[URL] ......
Here is an example of what mine kind of looks like, but mine is way more loose.
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2004 Prius, 98K miles ... I recently replaced the coolant control valve (received code P1121) and added coolant. Trouble codes were cleared. I am now getting the red triangle intermittently. When I drive the car, after a few minutes, the red triangle comes on. I can shut off the car, and turn it back on, and the red triangle comes back after a few minutes. The car seems to drive normally.
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Replaced this gasket that seems to be leaking oil. Looks simple enough, is there anything i should do or know before taking on this job? It's a 2002 Accent GS 1.5L ....
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I was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
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I have difficulty starting after I fill the tank (usually to about 3/4 fill, not topping off.)
I searched the forums and noticed the evap. system N-80 purge valve may be the culprit. Other VW's have the issue including one thread on a Touareg.
I think I'm the first with this issue on a Phaeton. Sometimes getting loose gas cap faults too and on occasion a CEL. I had a fuel pump replaced last week, but this problem predates the pump failure.
Does this sound like the issue here? Doesn't it throw a code? I'm wondering why they didn't discover it when the diag'ed the bad fuel pump.
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I have a 2001 saturn l200 2.2... Well I put the new EVAP Purge Valve in last night.. Today I start the car and started to clicking so I unplug the new EVAP Purge Valve and it stop clicking and i plug it back in and started clicking..
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Looking for the location of purge valve on a 2003 aviator ?
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I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
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I only have 2200 miles on my new 2012 Passat SE V6 and the check engine light came on the other morning. I took it in to the dealer and they found codes P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Small Leak Detected) and P0456 (EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak Detected). The tech says on the work order that he removed and tested the EVAP Purge Valve with a vacuum pump and the valve would not hold a vacuum. The dealer replaced the EVAP Purge Valve under warranty. They say this is the first 2012 passat V6 they've seen with this issue. I've only had the car for 4 weeks.
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I just had my 3rd Canister purge valve installed a month and a half ago, and it's already dead.
I noticed while I was driving that it was constantly pulsing after the engine warmed up, and continued to do so as long as I was driving.** This did not seem normal to me (I can hear it in the cab).
The solenoid is burning up and measures open circuit. No codes are thrown during the time it continues to pulse, but when it burned up again, the 3 codes (P0441 Incorrect Purge Flow, P0440 Solenoid Failure, P0443 Purge Valve Circuit Trouble) are immediately thrown? indicating the solenoid is fried.
The system runs a series of tests during normal operation, so if there was a problem with an actual leak or clog, it should show up as a test failure code, but does not. My inclination is that the problem is a sensor.
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Engine light came on a week ago, finally made it in to get the code pulled yesterday : P0441
From reading on this site, thinking its a faulty purge valve.
I have found pics of its location on an 04, but cant seem to find it on my 08 2.7L.
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