The power locks on the front right door started making a ugly sound. I disassembled everything including the actual electric actuator and found that the problem is caused because one of the gears that got a teeth broken.
Now, I forgot to take a picture before I put it all together, but it was white gear about one inch in size with a little square thingy in one side that moves the actual lock.
Every time when i accelerate, there is a 'blade spinning sound' coming out from the engine, i noticed it when my car hit around 5k miles, now it's about 7300 miles. any idea what that is? could be the belt problem?
The second noise is a constant 'locking' sound comes from back passenger side. when I locked all doors, (especially in quiet night makes noticeable) about every 10 minus, the door kept making a 'locking' sound, it sounds the latch and the lock can't fully attached each other, and the door has to constantly reboot the auto-lock system.
What are the issues of these two annoying sounds?
Just installed 2 new door lock actuators. While at a very long stop in traffic, a door lock clicking sound started to come from the door panels. The actual locks were not moving. Just the sound.
View 1 RepliesMy gas lid will not shut flush. When I lock the doors it makes a loud sound as if it is having a hard time catching the lock. The lock still catches but its still not flush. When the car is unlocked and I shut the door I can just pull it open without pushing on it as it is not sitting flush. I checked for anything that may be in the way of the hinge and all seems normal.
View 6 RepliesI do have an Accent 2002 automatic 1,6 L. All doors have a power lock door motor EXCEPT driver door. The only way to lock or unlock ALL doors is with the key.
If I unlock the driver door, all door unlock. I know I have to add a motor to the mechanism in the driver door, but I don't know what to add exactly...
Had drivegear springs installed about 7 months ago or so and recently the front started making a swoosh sound when going over bumps. Took it into the dealership and they told me they tightened some chassis bolts. So I take it home. Problem is still there. So I go back and let them know. I go for a ride along with the manager and he tells me the noise is normal. So now it's not a matter of it being covered under warranty but more of is it a problem at all?
I remember someone telling me it might of been the control arm bushings. I need rubber ones or something. How I should approach this so my car doesn't sound like a 1980's chevy.
Was about three blocks from home when the front of the car started making a horrific metallic scraping sound as the front wheel turned. I mean LOUD. Did a quick look for something stuck in the wheels somewhere but nothing. It's not like a branch stuck in the wheel sound, but scraping a shovel on a steel beam kind of sound. Braking seems to change the makeup of the sound, but did not stop it. Parked it in the garage.
I pulled the left wheel off, looked and looked, and looked. Nothing. Fear and sadness setting in. Everything looked normal....except....a faint line on the rotor very near the inside edge. Got a mirror and looked some more, and there, wedged on the inside edge of the pad's metal part and the rotor, was a rock the size of a bb. At most. Got a small screwdriver and hammer and popped it out. Done. Sheesh.
Seriously it was so loud it was amazing. So store in file folder for future reference if needed.
The line can be felt barely with a fingernail and is half the width of a pencil lead, and goes under the innermost 1/8" of the pad. I'm thinking do I want the dealer to pull and turn it, or is it going to affect my braking at all. Pretty much gonna leave it be I think.
We purchased our 2009 Accent 4 door used about 3 years ago and it came with only one keyless remote. Last week we began having problems with the keyless remote sometimes not locking the driver's door. It usually locks the other 3 doors on the first press of the button, but it usually takes 2 or more presses to get it to lock the driver's door. It always unlocks the driver's door on the first press. I replaced the battery in the keyless remote fob, and opened and closed the hood and trunk with no effect. We still have the original battery in the car.
View 2 RepliesMy engine has been making a ticking sound when it starts and when i hit the gas the ticking sounds stays there but go faster depending on my rpms and before it would go away after the engine got warm but now its here to stay. What it could it i feel like sound is hitting against the acceleration cable.
View 14 RepliesI spoke to a mechanic and he is confident that there is no damage since it is not making any noise after oil is added. He is saying that the lifters would have made the noise and now that oil is added, everything is okay.
It is a 2006 Hyundai Accent.
I have a 2007 4 door Sonata, and the Driver door power door lock does not always function. It make a noise like it is working, but most of the time it does not lock or unlock the door. The other doors work fine, and I need to manually lock and unlock the driver door with the key. I'm told that the problem is probably the door lock motor. Looking for some detailed instructions on how to remove and replace this motor?
View 4 RepliesThe little piece that flips when you lock the doors (you know what I mean, it is orange when it's open) has been acting up on my 06 Sonata. If you move it by hand it's fine (the door locks and unlocks) but when you use the fob and lock or unlock the doors, sometimes this one just doesn't move.
It looks like it wants to go, but doesn't. If you press lock and unlock again, it opens. on occasion.
Got a 2011 f 250 6.7...turbo started making a sound more like a turbine in a plane when I hit the throttle to cross the street...boost gage went to 0...i got a new turbocharger from garrett. Installed it and when I started the car there was no boost at all. I searched for any leaks and nothing. I get a code p132b.
View 7 RepliesI have a problem, the passenger front door won't open from inside or out, neither handle on the inside or out works.
The lock goes up and down and the handles move but you can feel that they are not connected to anything. I took it to two mechanics and they shrugged.
If I can't open the door, I can't take the panels off and look inside the door. What I can do? I hate to destroy my door panel.
I have 2011 elantra, front driver power door lock only works sometimes.
View 2 RepliesOk so this started with the ignition key cylinder locking and refusing to turn. Some tri-flow, patience and judicious taps of a hammer fixed that issue, but not before i pried apart the plastic cap that keeps the little spring loaded plunger in place that actuates the ding ding when the key is inserted to the ignition. This little plunger has a couple of contacts and is wired to the little green bulb that illuminates the ring around the ignition key. Everything was just fine until i caused an arc between the exposed contacts and the side of the ignition cylinder.
Now neither the fob nor the door switch will lock or unlock the doors or the trunk unless the key is in the 'on' position. It should be hot at all times. What have I shorted out? I checked all the fuses and of course they are fine. My nightmare is that i have messed up an expensive module. I did find the plastic cap and plunger hiding under and behind the heat ducts to the rear seats and put that back together, so there are no exposed contacts, but the damage has been done.
I noticed that the driver side front wheel makes a metallic scraping noise while the car is turning right. It sounds like something scraping the rotor or shield behind the rotor ( a rotational/moving kind of scraping noise)
This only happens on a relatively sharp turn (wheel is turned 70~80% to the right). I don't suspect the power steering as there is no noise if the car is not moving even when wheel is turned to extremes. The scraping noise happens at any speed, as long as the car is moving. does not happen when car is turning left.
Note that I am 90% certain it is from the front... my ears may be playing a trick on me (kind of hard to listen precisely while driving). Where to start looking?
Had this happen to me a few times now. Driving down the highway (120kph) in 5th, revving around 3,000 or so and whenever I hit a hill and come onto the gas pedal, I hear a ticking sound coming from up front. The harder I press on the gas - the louder it gets and vice versa.
Only happens in 5th and only under load. Scanned for codes - nothing, looked under the hood - looks normal. Timing belt was done around 56,000km, car has about 67,000km now and is in fantastic shape otherwise.
Spark plugs are still original and I have a new set waiting to go in, drive belts were replaced back in the spring but the tension is correct and all pulleys were checked okay at the time.
I have a f350 2012 that makes a strange clonk sound in the front when I go over bumps the problem is that we dont have too many us ford dealers here.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
I have a 2006 f350 PSD 6.0l that blew the turbo a few months back. Has 102k miles. I had a large truck diesel mechanic near where it blew up replace the turbo. Everything seemed to be fine but started noticing a chirping sound that would start at 2500 rpm but only with a load like pulling a trailer or going up steep grade. I have looked everywhere online to try to find something similar with no luck. The problem is getting worse and I need to find out what it is. Now the noise has gotten worse and it sputters after each chirp. It is now between 2100 and 2750. The more I push it on that rpm range the more it will sputter. If I push it enough that it down shifts, it all goes away and drives fine although seems like less power..
I am running the stock program and have changed the fuel filters, batteries, pulled off and looked at everything coming and going to the turbo and just can't find anything. I'm not sure if there are some other gauges I should be looking at while driving but I haven't found any that look like they show anything while it's sputtering and making the noise. Also I feel like it does not have the power it used to have before the turbo blew and was changed.
I also added a clip of the exhaust. I put the 5" turbo back AFE. I'm not sure it's sounding quite right. Seems to hiss a lot more than I thought it should, Don't know if it's related to my problem.
In the video I'm hauling a 14' dump trailer with very little weight in it. 2006 f350 lowres - YouTube....