Accent MC (2006-11) :: Noisy Clutch And Brakes
May 3, 2012
I am getting a lot of noise from the clutch and brakes on my 2008 accent.
First the clutch: the noise is coming from the clutch release cylinder under the hood, at the front of the engine bay. I've tried lubing the cylinder, but it didn't work. Is there something else I can try, or do I need to replace the release cylinder to get back to a quiet clutch? Would a rebuild work? Is it even possible to get a kit to rebuild a clutch release cylinder?
I checked the hmaservice website, but the troubleshooting didn't have any mention of the clutch noise. I've seen plenty of references online to people having similar problems, but I haven't found any specific solutions (besides the standard "take it in and get it fixed" response). I'd love to take care of this problem without going to a garage.
That's been going on for a while, but the brake noise is new. It's a squeak noise that happens only as I release the brakes when the car is standing still. It's fairly quiet now, but I want to make sure that it's not going to lead into a bigger problem down the road.
I've done plenty of disc brakes in the past, but I've never worked on drums before. I'm not even sure if the noise is coming from one brake or all four. My best guess is that it might be the caliper pins that need to be lubed, but that's a complete shot in the dark guess...
What should I be looking for when I try to diagnose and solve this annoying noise. Is it something typical that happens with drums?
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My read brakes have been grinding. I bought new pads to replace them. After pulling the drums I noticed that they were hardly worn. 50,000 miles on the car. They was a bunch of brakes dust in them. Cleaned the dust out and put the drums back on. It was quiet for about 3 weeks, now the grinding is back.
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2009 accent sedan has had an issue with noisy front hub bearings? I had my Accent in for an alignment today and also had the shop check for a humming noise that seemed to be coming from the front end. The humming varied with speed. The technician said it was a noisy hub bearing. He said that the bearings were both tight and had no play in them. I was told just to monitor the noise, as the bearings were tight. Just had the transmission fluid changed too. (Used genuine Hyundai fluid) The noise doesn't seem to be transmission related, as the transmission shifts perfectly with no noise. Also, the level of the noise changes on turning the wheel in either direction.
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Since I have this car i noticed that the brake calipers (especially the front) are very noisy. This problem is caused by caliper's floating guides that become loose and the entire brake caliper shakes. I asked at a kia mechanic who answered to me to change the calipers support. For my trusted mechanic is useless because, according to him, this type of support have this problem (he tell me that also others car have this problem like older nissan micra) and sooner or later would return noisy.
Some time ago with greasing the floating guides i temporary solved but drying up over time the problem come back.
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I've got an unknown issue with my 07 Accent (1.6L):
There is a low tone noise coming from near the upper area of the engine. It sounds like air or fluid traveling through a hose. The tone of the noise has recently become progressively louder, so that it is noticeable over normal road noise when driving. The noise does not fluctuate in tone or intensity with changes in RPM. However, the tone changes to a higher pitched frequency, almost like a hiss, when the clutch is fully engaged and held to the floor, both when in gear and when not in gear.
What the cause may be? And potentially required maintenance?
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I have a 2009 Accent GLS. The PS pump has become increasingly noisy, especially when the car is first started and when the steering wheel is turned. The noise is coming from the belt and when it does this it looks like the PS pump slows down and the belt is being forced through by the water pump. I bought a new/remanuf pump; however, the PS pressure switch thread diameter is smaller than the hole in the new pump and does not fit.
I took it back and tried another pump and same problem. Looking at a pump on RockAuto, A-1 CARDONE 215473 {#571001E000, 571001G000}, this one shows a plug with a slot in the hole where the switch screws in. I am at a loss with replacing the pump when I cannot seem to find what the car came with.
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Experienced rattling rear seat? Basically every shift and bump the rear drivers side back seat makes a very annoying rattling sound. It seems to be coming from where it latches on. I was thinking of taping the metal hook thicker so it would be tighter on. What to do to rectify it?
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As the title states my clutch is almost gone , been teaching too many people how to drive 5speed and the other day when my girl was driving she burned it real hard and now I can totally notice its engaging very late..
My question is : We just put a stage 1 every clutch in the rx7 and it was amazing but they only make a OEM replacement.
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My daughter was driving to work a couple of nights ago and ran over what she thought was a 2x4 blowing out the R/F tire. The next morning we got a new tire put on. She drive it back to work and when she came home, she said the engine was making a funny noise when she pushed the clutch in. I opened the hood and had her start it. No funny noises. I then had her push the clutch in and as soon as the hydraulic cylinder started to move out, I could hear a bearing noise which I attributed to the throw out bearing. I figured I would need to be putting in a new clutch soon and wondered why I hadn't done it when we put the new engine in last year. The next night, she called me from work and said the clutch didn't work and she coasted into her parking lot space at work. She said she tried to shift it into gear but it wouldn't, either with the engine running or not running. We put it on a trailer and towed it home. I think the running over the board and the possibility of the throw out bearing is just a coincidence but ???? The clutch cylinder does push the rod and throw out bearing fork forward but now no noise. Total failure of the T/O bearing??? This car has really been a test of my patience and wallet.
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2007 Accent with 86k miles. It's not very noisy but sounds a bit sick. It seems to shift fine.
I checked engine oil and the manual transaxle oil. Do I need a new clutch?
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Just bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
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2010 with 85k miles.
My car will randomly seem to stutter, almost like a very quick cut of power or skip, sometimes multiple times in a row. I feel like it may be the clutch slipping. It happens only at lower rpms (that I've noticed), and in any gear. When it skips, I don't see the tach jump at all and I have no cel. Are there any tests i can do? The car will move from a full stop to rolling just under the power of idle, I don't know if that means anything.
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2009 Accent 5 speed 66K miles. This is something which I recently noticed with the onset of winter. When I depress the clutch pedal, I have a very audible squeak. Think old door hinge squeak. So metal is rubbing against metal somewhere inside the bellhousing without enough lubrication.....not good. I pulled off the dust boot on the side of the bellhousing and tried my best to push moly grease around the clutch fork stud, hoping that was the origin. The noise went away for roughly a half a day but is back in full force....funny how cars do that.
Space seems EXTREMELY limited on lubricating the proper area. Or....is this a warning mechanism built into the clutch pressure plate assembly to warn of replacement soon? While I am asking these questions, what is a good time to look into replacing the clutch? The parts for the car seem relatively cheap, if I replace the clutch assembly, I may consider replacing the flywheel and clutch hydraulics as well as a whole system replace/refresh.
That aside, is there anyway to eliminate the squeaking without having to crack open the bell housing?
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At low speeds before coming to a stop the clutch shudders somewhat when I push it in. When quickly depressing the clutch when coming to a sudden stop....
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Ok, so I got my car at 60k miles, and the clutch went out almost instantly so I had the entire clutch replaced, and it was working just fine until now. It has been 25k miles since I did the full clutch replacement so it shouldn't be messing up again already. It is not going in to reverse at all, it goes in to 1st gear, but only after a lot of coaxing and grinding, and the clutch feels strange. The clutch is too soft (too easy to push down), but after a while it seems to get better.
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
Manual, hatchback
85k miles
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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2008 Hyundai Accent ... ~105k miles ... Up to date on scheduled service
So my wife was driving today, in mildy wet conditions, around a turn at low speed. This occured during light acceleration to prepare to pull onto a highway, so the brake pedal was not engaged. She says that she felt both front wheels lock up simultaneous, and unexpectedly. The rear wheels continued to roll, but caused the car to slide sideways off the road. The front brakes did not release for several additional minutes. Then she pulled off the side of the road and drive ~1/4 mile to park the car at our home.
From researching on the internet, I saw that there may be a problem with the brake master cylinder, or possibly contamination in the brake fluid. The brake fluid has not been serviced recently, and the brakes are a few months old. No other problems or strange noises we have noticed before this. The service center is not able to take us in for a few days, and given the safety concerns, I do not want to service it myself without being able to definitively diagnose what the issue is. The last thing I want is to service "A" and find out the hard way it was a problem with "B".
How I would confirm that diagnosis, and then initiate the repair?
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Had the car for less than a week and I'm getting a constant chirping/cricket sound, the moment I touch the clutch even slightly it stops. Sound is gone when clutch is touched in any way or engaged. My first thought is Throw Out Bearing, or perhaps pilot bearing?
2010 GL Sport model.
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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I am having a issue with my 07 accent. Had front rotors and pads replaced because they needed to be. Clicking continued. Had drums and shoes replaced last month. Clicking went away for a few weeks. Recently started back up just the other day. The clicking is only when applying the brake and it sounds like it is coming from the right rear drum. It doesn't interfere with stopping, but it s so annoying and brakes shouldn't make that kind of noise anyway.
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I've had my Accent for a year and a half and now it has about 23k miles on it. I noticed that whenever I would apply the brakes, and the lift my foot off the pedal, I would hear a squeak . . . kind of like a squeaky door. It would happen every time I would lift off the brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the pedal itself, then I rolled down the window and realized it was coming from my rear drums.
So I took the rear drums off which was a PITA to get them off, and used some brake cleaner and white lithium grease on the backing plates of the shoes and on the springs, and the squeak is gone!
I suspect this is probably an issue with drums since it's a relatively closed system and brake dust tends to accumulate in there. Any good technique to remove the rear drums, other than using a hammer to tap it loose?
Here's a pic of the rear brakes with the drum off.
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