Experienced rattling rear seat? Basically every shift and bump the rear drivers side back seat makes a very annoying rattling sound. It seems to be coming from where it latches on. I was thinking of taping the metal hook thicker so it would be tighter on. What to do to rectify it?
View 10 RepliesMy read brakes have been grinding. I bought new pads to replace them. After pulling the drums I noticed that they were hardly worn. 50,000 miles on the car. They was a bunch of brakes dust in them. Cleaned the dust out and put the drums back on. It was quiet for about 3 weeks, now the grinding is back.
View 3 RepliesI am getting a lot of noise from the clutch and brakes on my 2008 accent.
First the clutch: the noise is coming from the clutch release cylinder under the hood, at the front of the engine bay. I've tried lubing the cylinder, but it didn't work. Is there something else I can try, or do I need to replace the release cylinder to get back to a quiet clutch? Would a rebuild work? Is it even possible to get a kit to rebuild a clutch release cylinder?
I checked the hmaservice website, but the troubleshooting didn't have any mention of the clutch noise. I've seen plenty of references online to people having similar problems, but I haven't found any specific solutions (besides the standard "take it in and get it fixed" response). I'd love to take care of this problem without going to a garage.
That's been going on for a while, but the brake noise is new. It's a squeak noise that happens only as I release the brakes when the car is standing still. It's fairly quiet now, but I want to make sure that it's not going to lead into a bigger problem down the road.
I've done plenty of disc brakes in the past, but I've never worked on drums before. I'm not even sure if the noise is coming from one brake or all four. My best guess is that it might be the caliper pins that need to be lubed, but that's a complete shot in the dark guess...
What should I be looking for when I try to diagnose and solve this annoying noise. Is it something typical that happens with drums?
2009 accent sedan has had an issue with noisy front hub bearings? I had my Accent in for an alignment today and also had the shop check for a humming noise that seemed to be coming from the front end. The humming varied with speed. The technician said it was a noisy hub bearing. He said that the bearings were both tight and had no play in them. I was told just to monitor the noise, as the bearings were tight. Just had the transmission fluid changed too. (Used genuine Hyundai fluid) The noise doesn't seem to be transmission related, as the transmission shifts perfectly with no noise. Also, the level of the noise changes on turning the wheel in either direction.
View 3 RepliesSince I have this car i noticed that the brake calipers (especially the front) are very noisy. This problem is caused by caliper's floating guides that become loose and the entire brake caliper shakes. I asked at a kia mechanic who answered to me to change the calipers support. For my trusted mechanic is useless because, according to him, this type of support have this problem (he tell me that also others car have this problem like older nissan micra) and sooner or later would return noisy.
Some time ago with greasing the floating guides i temporary solved but drying up over time the problem come back.
I have a 2009 Accent GLS. The PS pump has become increasingly noisy, especially when the car is first started and when the steering wheel is turned. The noise is coming from the belt and when it does this it looks like the PS pump slows down and the belt is being forced through by the water pump. I bought a new/remanuf pump; however, the PS pressure switch thread diameter is smaller than the hole in the new pump and does not fit.
I took it back and tried another pump and same problem. Looking at a pump on RockAuto, A-1 CARDONE 215473 {#571001E000, 571001G000}, this one shows a plug with a slot in the hole where the switch screws in. I am at a loss with replacing the pump when I cannot seem to find what the car came with.
I have a 2008 Accent GS 3 door hatchback AUTO (60,000 Miles). From Last week When I drive over a bump I can hear squeak / creaking sounds from Front somewhere.
View 4 RepliesThe car drives great on smooth roads, but as soon as I hit a bump it jerks the wheel and if turning the car it jumps sideways (overall feels like the rear is kicking out)... Not a fun feeling.
View 7 RepliesI have a bothersome bottoming out type of noise coming from near my empty trunk or underneath the trunk area. I have the 17" stock rims with stock mich. tires. I had VW check for the rubber rear shock absorber plate which I do have. I Have the rear tire secured as well as the battery. I have insulated the hard foam tool storage kit so it will not bounce going over irregular surfaces. Yet I still get this sound like a loose bar hitting against the underneath on less than perfect roads.
View 5 RepliesSo my automatic accent with 82000 KM is doing some funny things. The first, is occasionally when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, it will shift, and then almost shift again with a bit of a jolt (double shift?). The second, is when in 4th gear, when at 2000 rpm, it will jerk, almost like if it shifts yet there is nothing to shift too (4th is the highest gear). What is going on here?
View 3 RepliesI noticed this week the gear shift light was out on my 2008 Accent GLS. I tapped the side of it and it came back. Next day, same behavior.
View 11 RepliesSo, back when my car was my dad's, he used to drive a lot on the freeway for his job. He said that after getting off the freeway and transitioning to in-city driving, the transmission would start to act up. It only happened when the car was hot, and it's generally fine for just driving a couple miles to work like I do, albeit the occasional rough shift every now and again, but I'd like to be able to hit the freeway if I need to without worrying about the transmission badly misbehaving.
Also, I'm not sure if it's even relevant to that issue, but I've been aware of the fact that at least two of my ignition coils are bad, a common problem in MC Accents to my knowledge, and the engine hasn't been running as smoothly as it could be for the past several months. Is it at all possible that a long-standing misfire issue could play havoc with shifting patterns when the transmission changes from freeway to in-city shifting behavior?
I have brand new ( 800KM ) Accent with Automatic transmission and I noticed that it shifts from 1st gear into 2nd kinda rough. By this I mean that I can feel shift pretty good, and I don't feel shifts from 2 to 3 to 4. I don't rev engine high, typically shifts occur when engine revs around 2000 rpm.
I am not sure if it is a transmission defect or this is the way it shifts? May be I need to breaking my car first and it will go away?
I've had my new left over 2010 SE for couple weeks now. done 600 miles.
I noticed at first a couple times when shifting from 1st to reverse while parallel parking and still slightly rolling forward, the the gear grinded a bit, despite the clutch being fully depressed. I figured maybe with this manual tranny compared to others i've driven that you just have to be dead still before shifting into reverse.
But then yesterday morning from my driveway, from a standstill I shifted into reverse and it grinded too, again with the clutch fully depressed. Is this normal with these cars? I've driven manual gtis and a ford focus and never experienced this before? Is this a problem?
the fact that it's happened three times now within a couple weeks tells me it's not me being sloppy on the clutch, it is definitely grinding with my foot all the way down on the clutch.
So I just installed my short shifter and everything works great, all the gears engage, however, when I put my shift knob on I noticed I couldn't engage reverse because it sits down too low and doesn't allow the reverse lockout to get over the rail and engage reverse. I have to loosen the knob so it sits higher and then I can engage reverse, but it moves around, so I can't leave it like this...right now my plan is to make some sort of spacer for the knob to sit on and then put loctite on it...seems like it would solve my problem. I have a Hyundai Aluminum shift knob and the short shift is OEM so I don't see what could be wrong ...
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 accent blue model with stick shift. been fine for 50k miles. Lately i have noticed an issue where i am in first gear and then when i push clutch in to go into second, the lever won't budge. it does eventually go in but it just isn't like it used to be. it happens say about 25% of the time. Since at higher rpms it won't do it but normal rpms it will.
Also, i just had a new short block installed, perhaps something is binding? If I sit in the car, stopped, i can shift into and out of all the gears perfectly. Maybe my 1st gear synchros are going?
It is a bit 'of time that my engine have some loss of power with bumps that is not much noticeable and, for now, only just annoying while driving. But lately it has happened that, especially with the AC turned on, the engine dies during gear shift. I noticed that when this happens, the engine rpms drops more fast than normal, causing rough idle for 3-4 seconds (it go down to ~4-500 rpm) and subsequent automatic acceleration from the ecu to ~1200 rpm to settle again to the normal idle (~700 rpm). When this happens if the AC is on, sometimes the engine dies.
I checked the idle control valve and it work good and it's clean. The spark plugs have less than 5000 km, spark wire are good and also coils are in line with the reference values, Primary Coil 0.87 Ω 10% at 20 C (68 F), Secondary Coil 13.0 kΩ 15% at 20 C (68 F) (I don't have the coil on plug but external coil version, like this: [URL] ....)
The only thing a bit 'strange that I noticed is that the throttle position sensor has a strange range when i check it with an obd2 scanner. The idle % reported is 8,7% and at full throttle is 87,5%. I never removed or changed this sensor. If I remember correctly once I unplugged its connector, but the engine was turned off. Is this the normal range??? There is some reset procedure for this sensor?
Earlier this year, I worked with my dealer to get a new automatic transmission for my 2007 Accent. I had only had the car for a couple months (purchased used, from my Grandmother who I knew, if anything, had probably been TOO gentle with it.) Only about 40,000km. I found the car extremely hesitant to shift on cool mornings, and allowing the engine to warm up first didn't make much difference. The 2-3 shift was especially late.
The last straw was when, on a frosty morning, the transmission failed to engage 3rd, bucked back out to find 2nd again, and then got 3rd on the next try. It did this a couple of mornings before I was done negotiating with the dealer, who ultimately agreed to supply a new transmission if I paid labour. This despite the car being just outside the 5-year powertrain warranty. I was quite satisfied.
So I enjoy the Summer with no problems -- only the barest hint of transmission "morning sickness", but only if I'm rushing it. I figure "that's an economy car for you". Now that cooler Fall weather has begun, I'm convinced that the new transmission behaves the same way as the first one. I haven't had the "bucking out of gear" problem yet, but the 2-3 shift is already a real dog on cool mornings.
I had to replace my brake sensor on side of pedal, and now my car won't recognize the brake is depressed to release safety on sifter to allow me to shift out of park.
View 7 RepliesMy 2009 Accent started doing the Hard/Jerky shift problem that I seen discussed in the forums. Had check engine light, scanning showed a code P0717. My question is, which sensor should install?
View 4 RepliesMy 2008 seems to be having some intermittent trouble shifting into the proper gear at a couple of speed ranges.
Occasionally I'll start it up and pull out of a parking space (or leave a stoplight) and it feels like it's stuck in 1st well after it should have switched to a higher gear (I sometimes feel the upshift at about 10* mph). If I continue accelerating and hit about 40-50 mph, once again it appears to stay in the current gear instead of shifting.
When this issue is happening, the car feels even more underpowered than usual and takes way more throttle than it should to accelerate. This results in a cruising RPM of 3.3-3.5k at 60 mph. At that speed the engine would normally be doing about 2.2k RPM. Similar power and RPM conditions exist in the lower-speed range, too.
This whole thing is usually preceded by a rough shift into gear (D or R) when I first start the car. It's always had a slight lurch in the appropriate direction as I take it out of park, but this is really noticeable.
If I stop the car and come back in an hour, it (usually) appears to have reset itself. I can drive around and the transmission control is as good as always.
This has been going on for about a month, with an episode maybe every week or two. I took it to a shop and they didn't find any problems (I told them about the weird shifting and lack of power).
Does it sound like this is what's happening (it's not getting into the right gear)? Thoughts on what I should do? I can't really remember the speeds.