Accent MC (2006-11) :: Noise That Increases When Vehicle Goes Faster And Decreases When Slows Down
Apr 30, 2016
This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.
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2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
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I recently had my 2002 1.8T in for clutch replacement at the dealer and they came back and said the crankshaft was bad ( the car was occasionally making noise when pushing the clutch in, they thought it was a throwout bearing) I took the car back to bring it back to an indie, and it is loud at idle and while accelerating (sounds like a chattering noise that gets faster as speed increases) It's now sitting in the parking lot. My question is, am I going to have to put in a whole new engine to fix this problem? can just a crankshaft be replaced?
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Starting at about 30mph there's a humming noise that gets louder as speed increases. It doesn't seem to change if I am steering right or left and i have no steering wheel shake or any sort of noticeable bumping at 60mph. Could this just be my tires making noise, they are quite worn by now.
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I love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
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I have a problem with my 2006 Sante Fe. When driving (at all speeds) my SF has developed a "cyclical", repetitive whining sound in the engine compartment that directly corresponds with the speed of the car. The "revolutions" of the sound are slow at slow speeds and very high pitched and fast at high speeds.
It happens at all speeds, with or without throttle being applied. I do NOT hear it when the car is in park or in neutral and I rev the engine so it has something to do with the rotations of the wheels/axles/drive shaft/gears or something that rotates in synch with how fast the car is going. I still hear it when coasting.
We recently put on new tires a few months back and I thought maybe it was just the sound of the new tread on the road but now I am almost positive this sound is coming from somewhere in the engine compartment. It is possible that it is coming from under the car but the problem is a can't confirm that because I only hear the sound when the car is moving. So far, it's just an annoying sound, it does not affect the performance of the car.
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My parents have a 2007 Mercury Mountaineer, 100,845 miles. They change oil like a religion. It has under the hood ticking that increases and decreases with RPM. The ticking (tickity-tickity) sounds like when there is low oil. People have said,"You better put oil in there..."The oil is full. I can't tell if the sound is coming from inside the engine, or if something on the engine might be loose that is causing the ticking as the engine RPM changes. From what I can remember from auto shop in the 80's...it kind of sounds like valves/lifters.
Also, it has a strange road noise that I think is coming from the tires. It sounds and sort of feels like riding on knobby off road tires. I can put it in neutral and turn off the engine, and the noise remains and decreases as the speed does, so it is not from the engine.
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1998 Lexus LS400, ~130k miles, town driving, auto shift.~35mph develops fine vibration with accompanying hum. Both increase when speed up. Hum develops a harmonic and shaking increases to almost a shutter.decreases or stops when release accelerator.
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I recently purchased a 2012 used Santa Fe. I've only had it about 2 weeks and just noticed something the other day. When I shut the vehicle off and exit, I hear a very low ticking noise coming from behind the front grill vents. It lasts for about 15 seconds and slows down until it stops completely.
I'll be the first to tell you that I know absolutely NOTHING when I comes to cars (other than how to drive one ). My guess would be that it sounds like some type of fan coming to a stop. If this is the case, I'm wondering if one of the blades could be bent, and how potentially serious of an issue this might be? Other than that, it drives great, with no other notable noises while in motion.
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Ok, maybe point me in the right direction before I take it somewhere. Pulls to left, worse when you go faster, hardly not at all at low speeds. Stops straight. Front left is the Oldest tire, due for replacement. I haven't rotated to try isolate it. Haven't hit anything, just started 2 days ago. Normal wear on the tires. Pressures are all at 32. Bad tire, right?
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My i40 (18 months old and already on it's 5th problem) has just developed an enormous noise (thud thud thud) when going over 15mph and gets faster with speed. If I go into neutral and turn the engine off at speed it is still there. The crazy thing is as soon as I veer or turn right it stops but when I turn left it does not stop. It's really lot and I can feel it through my feet and on the steering wheel. I am taking it into Hyundai (again) but I'd like to understand possible issues before I go in.
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96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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Today my Prius surprised me. I drove it out of the garage and it had 2 bars charge. After a few secs, as usual, it fired the ICE. Ambient temp was 21C/70F. The ICE stopped after only 1 min as per 1-min fuel consumption screen. Maybe it was a bit longer (more than 1 but surely less than 2) - it never warmed up that fast after a full night cooling off.
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I have a 2012 with 5k miles. Starting near 3500 miles, the car started doing hard shifts when 'cold', e.g., when started after sitting overnight. As the engine warms over the first few miles, the shifting smooths out.
The shift behavior also occasionally presents when the engine compartment cools during normal driving. E.g., if I drive several miles at 45mph on a cool day, the airflow under the hood allows more cooling than when stopped at a light.
The cold shifts are getting harder as the mileage of the vehicle increases. Changing from 'D' to 'S' does not work for the problem.
After several rounds with the dealer, they connected me with a Toyota regional representative. He and I drove my car, along with several other 2012's on the dealer's lot, each with a different odometer reading from 2k to 10k. I have also driven a 2012 owned by my parents, that has 2k miles. The conclusion he and I both reached is that the 2012's have a common cold-shift problem that starts around 3k-4k miles, and worsens with mileage. The highest mileage car I drove (an XLE) had 10k miles, and its cold-start shift performance was terrible.
After a month, I'm still waiting to hear from Toyota about what they plan to do (if anything). What was the resolution?
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When looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle. what numbers are the cylinders from left to right? To curtail off of that question where do I locate the corresponding ignition coils to these c I have been dealing with intermittent misfires on cylinders 1 and 3 codes P0300, P0301, P0303. I replaced the spark plugs to no avail. Whenever the vehicle shudders the headlights dim and the shuddering is worse when the vehicle is placed in gear, the A/C fan is on, or the vehicle is accelerating. Once I reach a certain speed, usually 35-40 mph, I don't notice until I again slow down. I replaced the spark plugs the day after I had the first issue appear which read code P0301. Prior to installing the spark plugs, I experienced a severe loss of acceleration power, but now only experience the shuddering.
2011 Hyundai Accent 63500 miles ....
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I live in a community with a posted speed limit of 15 mph. I travel a full minute at 15 mph before I exit the community to a city street. My 2013 Accent Hatchback won't "glide" along at 15 mph. It jerks and surges and races and slows down. I've tried using the manual option and keeping it in 1st gear however, when I reach the 1st gear tachometer limit at 15 mph the car "stalls" and the tachometer needle drops out and the car slows to 5 mph.
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I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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On December 27th I was driving home and just hit the city limits when my car wouldn't go faster than 50km - no more than 20km up hill.
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My 2006 Sonata GLS headlights dim along with the entire lighting electrical system when my car slows down past 1500 RPM. Why??? I had the car worked on 2 weeks after i got it because of this and they replaced a timing chain thinking this was the problem, but it wasn't.
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I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.
When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.
I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.
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I have noticed what I can best describe as a squeaky noise that appears to be coming from the rear of the vehicle. At first I thought it was the breaks, (as most of the time when I left off the breaks after being stopped I hear the noise), but I also notice the noise while turning and also when getting into my car to sit in the seat (Or pushing down on the rear of the car). Almost sounds like something in the suspension needs to be lubricated (a bushing perhaps)?
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