Accent MC (2006-11) :: No High Beam Indicator On The Dash
Dec 27, 2013
I installed a set of bi-Xenon HIDS identical to these.
in my wife's 2008 Accent. I unplugged the DRL module as shown in a thread I found here, but now there's no high beam indicator on the dash. Is there a wire on the plug that I can put a jumper on or something to make this work again?
And before all the nay-sayers growl at me, instead of assisting with this problem, I aimed the lights really low so there's minimal glare to oncoming traffic. We drove about 125 km last night with them and never got high-beamed once.
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I bought a 2009 Accent last week after my 1987 Camry wagon bit the dust. It has 47000 km and seems to have been very well maintained. The only problem I have noticed is that the high beam indicator light does not come on, although the hi beams do work. I downloaded an owner's manual but am not sure which fuse the indicator light is on; in any case, everything else seems to be working so I expect the bulb is burned out. My problem : I don't know its location on the instrument panel since it has never worked, and I don't know if it is possible to replace it without special tools.
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My high beam indicator in my dash is not working, I pulled the bulb and checked it and it is fine, so I did a voltage test and I am only getting 1.5 volts at the light terminals, I should be getting 12 volts. Is there a wiring diagram someone has so i can see if it is the dash display itself or that I could trace back to the switch to see if it is something in the headlight switch? or What it could possibly be. other than that, everything else works.
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08 accent passenger headlight was noticed to not be operating while in low beam. Switched to high beam- it works, but still no low beam.
First instinct was replace the bulb. Low beam works but now.. high beam doesn't?? Bulbs are fine, brand new out of the box and driver's side works like a charm. Bright as heck... passenger's side isn't quite as bright If that's any relation to the problem.
Checked the fuses, they're all good. Made sure bulb was placed in secure. Filament didn't get bounced around either. Was poking around online and seems it could be the relay. Manual doesn't seem to list a relay for the headlights or am I not reading it right?
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS and recently noticed that my low beam only works in the high beam setting and the high beam doesn't work.
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I bought a replacement bulb, swapped it out. No dice. I swapped over the passenger side low beam and still no dice. At this point I know its not the bulbs. I swapped in the original Driver's side light to the passenger side and it works. So now I have an extra bulb.
But the light is not working when I know the bulbs are good. Is this a fuse problem? It just happened one day while driving home from work the light shows up.
How should I go about fixing this and is it most likely a fuse that has gone out or something far worse?
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I installed a headlight kit from VW tuning a while back d2s with 6k bulbs I believe.
The headlights work but my high beam indicator is stuck on. I know this is a common problem but for the life of me I can't figure out how to fix it. If I switch back and forth with the stick on the column it does nothing. Just stays on high beams. I've just kind of dealt with it for a while.
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I have a 2000 Celica GT. Today I discovered that the blue high beam indicator is not showing in the dashboard. The high beam, low beam, and daytime running lights all are working.
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The high beam indicator on the instrument panel stopped working. It does illuminate but is extremely dim. I changed the bulb, its one of those tiny little bulbs but that didn't work. I cleaned the connection areas where the bulb holder clicks into the back of the panel with scotchbrite, no luck.
I checked for voltage, this is where it gets interesting. I measured 6 volts. The other side is presumably ground, but my meter went a little crazy when I checked for ground, like it sensed voltage, but there is no voltage. This could be a bad ground, but where is the ground located? Buried somewhere under all those plastic panels, I suppose. And why only 6 volts? Is there some electronic control somewhere? The Chilton manual wire diagram just shows a hyper simple circuit from the high beam lights, through the indicator lamp, then to ground.
I DID replace the check engine light bulb and that works now (sarcastic hurray!). I have never seen it come on, the previous owner must have let it burn out, but the truck is in pretty decent shape for its year.
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I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
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I have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
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I recently had my '02 Accent serviced. When I picked it up, the mechanic had set the parking brake with about 15,000 lbs of force. Once I got it released, I noticed that the red parking brake dash indicator light won't go off while the car is running.
I have verified the brakes are free, and have tried wiggling the brake handle.
Is there a switch somewhere that could be bad? For the record, I do most minor maintenance myself, and have 214,000 trouble-free miles on my 1.5L SOHC Accent.
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Last week I smelled something burning when I arrived home. I looked around the car and did not see any smoke. I noticed the other night that I had no headlights (low or hi beam) The fog light work fine. No fuses are out.
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I have an accent 2006 GS Sedan. I bought this as used recently. Noticed that the lights are not powerful at nights. When I turn on the lights there is no changes in the power of the driving / low beam lights.
Whether this is the standard with accent 2006. Other vehicles I have with me changes the power of the light and in this case there is no changes at all. I bought extra powerful bulbs and put them and there was a slight change, but there is no change between the driving lights and the low beam.
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Wanted to change my stock yellow high beam (DRL) bulb to an LED bulb i bought from jdmtoys I also changed the parking light to LED and it works perfectly, so after changing the high beam bulbs it worked for few seconds then stopped working... I put back the stock high beam bulbs and it still is not working did i blow a fuse or something? Now when I turn the high beam on my headlight turns on instead of the high beam....
This is the bulb i purchased : [URL] .....
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My roommate has a 2006 S60 Volvo. One day the passenger turn signal just stopped working. It only works if the high beam is on. The driver side turn signal works fine and so do the emergency flashers. It's not the bulb, not the fuse, not the turn signal lever, and she even took it in the shop and they couldn't figure out the problem without replacing the DIM which would cost a lot.
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My car is fully stock, with all options available to me (cold weather package not available here). The low-beam triple-LED headlights are aimed way too low compared to all my previous cars, and where they should be. BUT high-beam is aimed properly. So if I adjust the low-beams up, my high-beams might end up lighting up the trees, not the road.
If adjust the headlights up on a fully stock car (not lowered at the front)? Are the high beams still lighting up the road fine? And if you can be specific as the number of turns on the screwdriver, it'd be good too to have an initial adjustment reference.
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This morning a dash light informed me a headlight bulb was out. It was my DTR light on the passenger side.
I purchased Sylvania H7 high intensity, installed it and it failed to work properly. Daytime light on only drivers side works.
High Beam on , both lights works.
I checked my manual and it said to check fuse in the 5 slot on the driver side dash/door panel and there actually is no fuse in there. I checked the driver side and there was no fuse there either.
I replaced my driver side bulb last year and it took 5 mins....i am already 4 hours into this!
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I drive a 96 Subaru Legacy. What does it mean when one of the high beams is dimmer (less light output) than the low beam? I am using a brand-new bulb. It's not an adjustment issue because I was looking at the bulb when it was outside of the housing and it clearly gets dimmer when you switch to brights. However, they are equally bright when on low-beam, so I don't think its just a crossed wire.
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I replaced the low beam and high beam on my Subaru, now the low beam is very dim and the high beam doesn't work. Careful not to touch the bulb.
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I have an '06 Camry, which has lost all power functionality. The follow items just stopped working
1. Key fob -- keyless entry and alarm stopped working
2. high beam doesn't come on when headlight is on. However, when headlight is off, it comes on--go figure
3. Power door lock also does not work, even from driver side door. Have to lock all doors manually
4. Interior lights don't come on when door is open.
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