Accent MC (2006-11) :: Need To Crank Twice To Start
Apr 24, 2015
It was the worst tonight that it has been in a while; I needed to crank the car 3 times to get it to start; mind you when it runs, it runs great.
With a bit of research, this is looking like a fuel pump/check valve problem. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent GS, would this mean I need to replace the fuel pump assembly?
If this is the case, I want to do a beta swap over the summer. If this works out, should I upgrade the fuel pump/does the fuel pump need to be upgraded? and if so, would the upgraded pump cause other issues?
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I have been having this issue randomly, sometimes it won't occur for days and other times it happens in a short period. I will place my key in the ignition, and everything will chime correctly, and when I turn over my engine, it sounds like the engine catches then it just stalls. The things I have changed so far is,
battery ( needed to be changed anyways)
spark plugs ( was set to be changed)
air filter
cabin air filter ( no relevant but still...)
oil
At first I thought it could be bad gas, since I fill up sometimes at safeways etc, but in my tank right now is 91 octane shell, I thought it could be spark plugs since I was a little over due so I changed them, and the issue never popped up for 2 more weeks, then it came back.
if I use my car starter it seems to start better, but it is maybe 1 out of 10 times it will just crank continuously without catching or anything.
I can hear my fuel pump whirl when the key is turned but not started, I checked the oil today and it is full and a light color, maybe 500 km on this oil change.
Here is the youtube issue of what is happening... [URL] ......
I rather cover most of my bases without having to bring it in for servicing.
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I have a Hyundai accent 2007, I guess the brain box is faulty, the engine will crank fan roll etc but won't start at all, can dis reset work for it at all ...
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My 2008 Accent will intermittently crank crank and will not turn over. You can hear it trying to start but it seems like its not getting fuel. Then I will stop turning the key, try again and it will start. It may do this two or three times before starting. I have no codes.
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2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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How to remove the window cranks from the door panels on the 2010 Accent. I have reaad lots about other models and can't find anything on the 2010. I purchased the cranks removal tool but it don't appear to work at all. I drop by my dealer and that was like talking to the wall, they don't know how to remove the handle.
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I just bought a 2004 hyundai accent 1.6L standard transmission on the 13th of June, ran great drove it everyday, was driving fine when I came home monday night, went to drive it yesterday and get nothing, turn the key no click, no crank, the radio turns off as it always did when you try to start, I checked the fuses, and the battery shows twelve volts on the meter, what could cause this to abruptly happen?
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I have a 2002 Accent GS. Their is fuel flow out of the fuel filter. I've changed out the spark plugs and sprayed starting fluid into the cylinders, and still will not start. So there is no electricity to the spark plugs. Replaced all of the ECU fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash, and still will not start.
Don't think it is the coil pack, because I can't imagine both coils failing at same time. Think it is a relay or sensor. Which relay or sensor would also prevent power from going to the instrument panel gauges but still allow the instrument panel warning lights? Main relay? Crankshaft position sensor? Throttle position sensor?
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Check engine light had come on, the car was running rough at idle and it would crank hard. So I threw my code scanner on it only to find out it wouldn't link. Drove it to O'Riley's and had them pull the codes. It ran rough and had next to no power on the way there. O'Riley's pulled the codes and we got a P0300 (random multiple misfire), P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire), P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire), and a P0496 (EVAP emissions system high purge flow). So once I got it back to the house, she told me that she had the codes pulled once before and that they told her it could be her gas cap so she replaced it. She also stated that she had replaced the plugs about 3 months ago.
So with new gas cap and new plugs, and these codes, I did a bit of research and come to the conclusion that it'd replace the purge solenoid. The solenoid was making a pretty loud ticking noise and when I pulled it off, it rattled so I figured that was the fix. Pulled her plugs and you can clearly see that cylinder 1 was running VERY lean and cylinder 2 was a little richer but still too lean. Plugged the plugs back into coils and laid them on exhausted. Turned the car over and we had spark. Lead me to think the misfire had something to do with the P0496 EVAP code. Put everything back together and erased the codes. Gave the car back to her and told her to let me know if the light came back on. That was Wednesday last week. Sunday she told me the light came back on and the only code that came up was the P0496 again. When I gave it back to heron Wednesday, it would still crank hard but would start.
Battery is new and checked good, alternator is pulling about 14v and checked good and the starter checked good. My dilemma is the code and the hard crank. She told me that it only cranked hard for her once so I am assuming that has gone away but we're still left with the P0496. I am not 100% sure as to how this system operates but I understand it for the most part. She told me that she had just put gas in it before the light came on. Not sure how much time had elapsed after filling it and the light coming on but I do know she put gas in it. If it's a high purge flow, that makes me think there may be a leak in the system but I'm not sure where to go from here without throwing a bunch of parts and money at it.
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I've Sonata 2006 and it's just fine no problems at all, until this problem comes. When I start the car the engine crank but not start, RMPs is jumping to 4 then into 0.. I checked fuel pump, battery and sparks all are good.
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I have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
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I have a 2006 Sonata v6 with about 140k. The other day, I tired starting the car and I heard a "click" but no cranking. (For definitions, a click is a single staccato sound "kuh"; cranking would be the sound of the engine trying to start and just not able to make it "kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh-kuh"). I thought maybe I wasn't in park, so I jiggled the gear shift a little and then it started. I'm not sure I actually did anything, but it started and I figured it was a once and only problem. Well, I had the problem again tonight. In Park and Neutral I get a click. In Reverse and Drive, I get nothing. So it seems like Park is recognized. The battery is fully charged, but for god measure, I charged it anyway. Nothing unusual about the weather - 50s and dry. The car is parked on flat ground. I didn't just fill up. I can't think of anything different that I'm doing.
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I Have a sonata 2007 2.4L automatic and I just had a start problem today. I turned the start key and nothing no crank, all the light in the dashboard are ok, i can hear the fuel pump and my batery is fine. I tried 5 time to start it and nothing I wait 10 minutes and the car started ..
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2008 Azera with 90K miles won't start or crank. Unhooked battery and hooked it back up--no joy. No lights on the dash--absolute silence when turning the key. Doors and trunk won't auto-unlock. Can't get it into neutral to move it so I can try to jump it. Almost like it has some kind of kill switch.
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I was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
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Fuel Pump and Fuel Pump Relay replaced after 115,000 miles. On occasion, engine will turn over but not crank ... wait 10 minutes and the engine will start. No security light (passlock) or engine trouble codes displayed or recorded. Once the engine starts, it runs smoothly and normally. Problem of starting did not occur until the fuel pump and relay were replaced.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 218xxx on it. Have had a ton of issues since day one, but I finally thought I had gotten a handle on all of them until the other day. Truck started sounding a little rough, no noticeable effect on performance, no codes on my Edge CTS (except one random CKP sensor code that went away). Was leaving work later that day to go home and it started up fine.
Got about a 1/4 mile from the shop and went to turn onto a busier road so I put into the pedal a little bit. Truck immediately lost power. Sounded like a turbo boot blowing and I had very little throttle response. Immediately pulled over and checked codes with truck still on, nothing. Got out and popped the hood with the truck still idling to check for CAC tube/boot etc. As I was looking at it, the engine started screeching. I shut it off as quick as I could get back to the cab.
Looked over everything, nothing noticeably wrong. Went to crank it to see what it would do. All i got was a noise from the starter engaging. Belt not turning over. Tried unplugging the fan clutch (read a thread with similar symptoms and that was the issue for them), connected the starter solenoid directly to battery, same issue. Removed belt and attempted to crank. Same thing. Removed all glow plugs to check for hydrolock. Motor slowly would turn with belt still removed and no glowplugs. Removed starter and tested outside of vehicle, solenoid and motor both seem to be ok.
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I have a 06 6.0 f-250 it cranks but won't start untill I pull the secondary fuel filter cap off and seems to vent air in the system out then it starts right up. I can't figure out where it's sucking air. Here's my question I changed the fuel sending unit in the tank a few weeks ago and had a hard time seating the lid on top of fuel tank. If it is not completely seated will this cause air in the fuel system and give me the headache I've been dealing with?
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My wife and I went on vacation for our anniversary and the truck ran fine for a while then we went back to get ready and when we left it started up and everything seemed fine but it died about 200 yards later and is now cranking but not starting. Left my toolbox at the house (stupid!) And truck is new to me so I don't have gauge or reader. Checked the fuel filter under the hood and fuel pump is pumping. Any other tips on what to do that could be the problem without buying parts?
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