Accent MC (2006-11) :: Missing At About 50 MPH
Jan 20, 2013
Getting an intermittent power problem at about 50 to 55, could that be a spark plug or timing or possibly a fuel problem?
View 3 RepliesGetting an intermittent power problem at about 50 to 55, could that be a spark plug or timing or possibly a fuel problem?
View 3 RepliesMy drivers side windshield wiper is missing a band about 3" wide in the middle. I bought aftermarket blades but is still missing the same band.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 hyundai accent 5 speed with 76k and a 1.5. the spark plug boots arc on all 4 plugs and can see a light blue line down the center of the wires also. But while idling you see nothing till u snap the throttle. Also driving while its under load you can really feel the miss in 3rd gear. Ok here"s what I've done I cleaned up all my grounds on motor and body ,also cleaned spark plug threads. i replaced wires with 5 different brands including factory wires and same thing. I've tried all kinds of different plugs from regular coppers to iridium and changing plug gaps with no change. the coil was replaced,crank sensor changed and does same thing.
View 11 RepliesI bought myself an 06 MK4 GTI and loving it!!!!!! But, now to the problem. OBD2 port is not in its designated spot. I believe the previous owner had an aftermarket radio in the vehicle and put the stock one back in before selling it. Is it possible they could have pushed on the wires and pulled the port out of its little cubby hole? If I remove the radio should I have access to the obd2 wires/port? IF so is there a trick for removing the stock headunit or do I really need the special tab tools?
View 5 RepliesThe other evening my 2006 Town & County 3.3L would not accelerate well and I though I detected a miss while trying to accelerate. Also, when I got it up to around 55mph and would try to accelerate to pass, the engine would kick clear up to over 4000rpm and barley accelerate. I checked the plugs, the were fine, changed the plug wires didn't make any difference. The van had about a half a tank of gas in it, so I went ahead and filled it up, and that didn't change anything. I let the van sit overnight and the next afternoon took it out on the road and it seems to accelerate fine now.
The only thing I'm still noticing at this point is that with the transmission in park, when I try to rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, it starts cutting off/missing very badly at around 2800 rpm.
My 99 grand voyager with 3.3L does not do, so I'm wondering if still have some kind of issue on my 06 or is there something on the newer vans that limits the rpm in park, it doesn't seem to be cutting out or missing at that rpm range now while driving.
2006 sonata 3.3L has an engine miss that is most prominent around 30 mph but not detectable at idle or during acceleration. It has new plugs that are properly gapped. Transmission fluid is good and fresh. I even checked the ignition coils and had all about .9. I even changed the fuel filter. What else could it be?
View 7 RepliesI had the fuel pressure sensor recall done recently, and I got the car back with 2 plastic pins missing from the engine compartment covers.
Car went in with all of the pins in place. No big deal, I have a bag of pins and I can replace them.
But then I wonder, if they're careless about small things like pins, are they putting my engine back together with all the bolts and screws???
My dad once told me a story about a coworker who used to work the Ford assembly line. They would sometimes put in 3 bolts where 4 were required.
One day, if my engine fails, it may be hard to prove the dealership was the cause.
My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
View 10 Repliesjust overhauled my 6.0. run great for about 3 days now runs really rough when cold. new heads injectors rings pistons ficm fuel pump icp sensor ipr valve fuel pressure is good. Engine rolls smoothly when cold also.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
I've got an issue with my truck, I was towing home my camper this weekend and my engine started missing out and vibrating very bad, then it overheated... pulled over and check codes, p0263, p0299, p0300, p0301. Oil all over engine, tons of blow by, definitely a dead miss on cylinder 1. Smokes bad out of exhaust, zero power, and blows cap off of oil filler when loose, tons of smoke and oil from ccv.
My question is, could it be in the valve train? Or is it going to lie in the piston/rings? Blown head gasket? It did overheat, but didn't puke out of bottle, turbo timer kept it running for a bit after I shut it down roadside, egts were definitely high. Also the egr is deleted, have a predator programmer with custom tune for she delete.
I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l Super Cab. When I bought the truck the rear interior door trim panels were missing. I tried to order them straight from ford but it turns out they no longer carry them, and I can't seem to find them anywhere online. I've also looked at the salvage yards in my area- nothing. Where I would be able to find these elusive creatures?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2011 accent GL 2 weeks ago from now and the car wont go straight, even when i center the steering wheel the car pulls to the right, it gets really annoying.
I took the car to the dealership a week ago and they said "its the road" that are build to make the car pull to the right, but i dont think its right that i have to fight with the car to keep it going straight when going 80 km/h or over. What could be causing this?
I have a 2007 hyundai accent 1.6 l gls, recently got a code p0496 and installed a purge valve and 4 days later got a code p0497 (evap emission sys. Low purge flow). Would it be better for me to take my car to an emission shop where it can be diagnosed since i do not want to take to dealership cause the cost would be very high. I want to diagnose it with some machine that will pinpoint the main problem without me replacing parts just to find out that maybe the part i thought was bad did not need to be replaced.
View 2 RepliesBought brand new tires for my 08 Accent. Car still shakes when driving, even while doing 40 on the street. Haven't had the suspension looked at or wheel bearings but would like to know if any other MC owners have had this problem. Car currently has 61,703 miles on it and I am about to do the 60K service next week
View 8 RepliesNot brake squeal but a squeak that is emanating from the drivers side springs or shocks. There's no noise while driving or stopping, just when you come to a complete stop and inertia sends the car forward slightly you can hear it.
View 6 RepliesI have a 5speed manual 09 accent I've had it for about six months and lately when I brake around 40 or more mph my car shakes like a champion, on my previous car this was due to old rotors but the car is less that 2 years old I don't think that's the case but idk, my car jus got an alignment last month and I don't hit things so to me it should b fine...
View 24 RepliesSo I have a '10 Accent Blue with 61,000 miles on it and the front end is 'clunking' again. 2 years ago under warranty I had the same sound and they replaced both front strut.
View 4 RepliesI have a check engine light issue combined with another issue when I have trouble starting the car after filling with gas. I fill it from less than a quarter tank to a full tank and it takes 5 tries to start it. The code that I'm getting is P0171 which is a fuel system for bank 1 is too lean. It runs ok as far as I can tell, but I just bought it. Its a 2006 Accent with 68 k miles. Both events happened close to each other. The check engine light came on when I was driving on the expressway and quickly stopped since the exit had traffic backed up on it. It triggered the check engine light with a quarter tank of gas I filled it up and then it had trouble starting
I already took it back to the dealer and he just cleared the code. I'm really worried about the check engine light coming on for silly things. They said it just needed to be cleared. Does it always do this? What if there is a real problem? If I take it back and he doesn't fix it, when can I get into the lemon law type stuff? I bought this car since I thought it would be reliable, but it already says check engine. Its only been two weeks since I got it and already having issues.
It was the worst tonight that it has been in a while; I needed to crank the car 3 times to get it to start; mind you when it runs, it runs great.
With a bit of research, this is looking like a fuel pump/check valve problem. I have a 2010 Hyundai Accent GS, would this mean I need to replace the fuel pump assembly?
If this is the case, I want to do a beta swap over the summer. If this works out, should I upgrade the fuel pump/does the fuel pump need to be upgraded? and if so, would the upgraded pump cause other issues?