Accent MC (2006-11) :: Misfiring Followed By CEL Coming On And A Cylinder Cutting Out
Nov 12, 2015
I'm having the absolute worst time trying to fix my wife's 09 accent. We bought the car in '12 with 45k miles on it, and just hit 109k last month. About a year ago, the car started misfiring badly (hot day, after reaching operating temperature) followed by the CEL coming on, and a cylinder cutting out. I (mistakenly) figured coils, and replaced them. This "fix" didn't last more than a couple months.
I've also replaced the intake manifold gasket, suspecting a vacuum issue, due to the symptoms. While doing that, I put in a new PCV valve. To no avail, as the car still misses, chugs and shudders while accelerating at operating temperature. I've disconnected/checked the sensors on the manifold, the 02 sensors, the evap purge solenoid...I absolutely can not wrap my head around this.
The weird part is that the car starts fine when cold, (with only a split-second hesitation if you goose the throttle) and will run great for about 10 minutes/until it warms up. Then,once it warms up it will jerk, shudder and not accelerate at all unless you knife the gas. After letting off the gas, it goes right back to "misfiring" and the light comes back on. I can shut the car off, restart it, and it will run fine until the accelerator is pressed.
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Recently my car, after I put fuel into my car, my car won't start unless I apply the gas and then shift it into gear. I thought that perhaps replacing my spark plugs would fix this problem since it is about time for a tune up on my 2010 Hyundai Accent. About a week after changing the spark plugs I now have an error code that states that Cylinder 2 and 4 are misfiring and it is causing my car to shake while it is idling or speeding up. Also it is much slower than before to get it started from a stopped position.
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My dad has 2006 passat 2.0T. In December 2010 he went overseas. During his absence the car was parked in garage and not in use.
So one day I decided to start the car and as soon as I turned it on the car made this noise and check engine light came on. Took the car to a private repair shop and found out the cylinder #3 was misfiring. The tune up for this car was due so I had all four spark plugs changed and the car ran fine for few days. Then couple of days later it started making the same sound and this time around the coil for cylinder #3 was replaced.
A few days after that check engine light came back and this time it was blinking and the engine was struggling to run, took it again to the workshop yesterday and this time another coil not sure which cylinder was replaced. (all this is done at a private workshop). I have a hunch that the car is going to run fine for a day or so and the problem is going to come back
I never had any major issues with it up until now. Bought this car new in 2006 from dealer. I am afraid that this might be a start of a downhill roll from here on I will drive the car tomorrow and see how it reacts.
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I have 2006 Subaru Forester that is idling roughly. 90k – oil change every 3k miles. Per diagnostic codes I learned that the 2nd cylinder was misfiring. I replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires, and an airflow sensor. Yet, my car still idles rough. The check engine light is solid and the cruise control is flashing. The idling problem only happens when stopped… after I get high rpms there is no shaking. I had someone disconnect the battery and reset the computer and the lights stayed off for about a week and idling was fine. Week later – the problem returned. I think this an electrical problem, but not sure if mechanical.
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So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6L. A few weeks after I bought it w 38,000 miles, it started misfiring so I replaced the spark plugs. It ran great for about another 6 months and started misfiring again. I took it to Hyundai to have it fixed and of course it wouldn't do it for them. I told them what it was doing and they said that there was no code so it was probably my spark plugs. I replaced my plugs with the OE plugs and got the same trouble about 4 months later. Now it has 60,000 miles and my warranty is done. I put in new plugs yesterday and it only ran well until it warmed up and it did the same thing. I ordered new, better than OE Delphi coils yesterday and I'll get them today. I feel like there's a bigger problem with the system that's causing the problem with the coils.
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Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
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Have a Accent GLS 1.6L, 92,000 miles on it the issue is what I stated above.
Basically back in March I started having issues with my car and it seemed like it was misfiring or something of the sorts at first I thought it was the IAC motor because it would only intermittently kind of "choke" if you will and it only did it while I was idling and in drive. So before I decided to go further with the IAC motor I decided to take it and have the throttle body cleaned, but it eventually started to do it again. After that I had my fuel injectors cleaned and that didn't work much at all. Kept going until a couple months ago when it actually set off a check engine light and it started doing it almost violently.
Check engine light came up with the result that coil 2 is misfiring and I went about replacing the spark plugs and the boot to one of the coils and that made the issue go away no check engine light, no nothing. Past couple days it's been doing it very very occasionally but yet still doing it.
I don't have a whole lot of cash but I need a solution quickly because this is starting to become a pain I don't want it to become so bad that I'm without a vehicle that is operating properly again.
Only thing I can note is that now it is very occasional, and when the car could be otherwise be considered "cold" and often I can't make it repeat the same thing. Had oil above cylinders when I had the plugs replaced.
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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My girlfriends 2007 accent as thrown codes p0300 and p0302.
After reading everything I could find, I had coil pack on my list of possible problem items.
The car sat in the driveway yesterday and when she went to start it today, she couldn't get it to.
I got it to start when I got home by giving it some gas while turning the key, but I don't want to drive it anywhere.
The hard start is leading me to believe it's the coil pack.
I was going to start with changing the pcv, spark plugs, and run fuel injector cleaner through it because those are the cheap possibilities...but now may add in a new coil pack.
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So I've been trying to get rid of the check engine light recently so I can get the car inspected. The car has about 130,000 miles. I was having problems with the car intermittently misfiring, and burning a lot of oil on start up. Also the car still had the original timing belt up until this time so I decided to change the valve seals and timing belt. I couldn't get the timing right so I took it to a mechanic and he got the car running like it was before I took it apart, although I don't think he changed the timing between the camshafts. The check engine light stayed on with p0016 as the code. The car accelerated poorly, but otherwise drove fine. I tried changing the camshaft sensor, and cleaning the OCV but that didn't work. So today I looked at the timing between the two camshafts and moved the intake cam over by one tooth which got rid of the p0016 code! Unfortunately the car decided to replace that with the p0340 code. I didn't notice any damage to the pins on the sensor. It seems to stumble for a bit after start, and when releasing the gas after revving the engine, but otherwise idles okay. I have yet to road test it.
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Our Accent has just about 86k on it now, back in November it suddenly started running real jerky/rough, misfiring kinda thing. So I was able to drive it to my local repair shop and they found a bad coil pack on #3, so they replaced that and put in new plugs while they were doing it.
Just Saturday we were shopping about 20 miles from home and cranked it up to go home and started doing it again, pretty much identical symptoms, runs out normal at certain RPMs so I knew it was probably same thing...I was able to get it home and then took it in this morning and sure enough now #1 is shot. So they are replacing that. They want about 30$ more per coil then I can order them for myself online so I didn't want to scarf up the money for the other 2 that are still original.
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What is the easiest fix on this and what is the worse case scenario?
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I am currently having an issue with my 07 Accent misfiring on cylinder 1. So far, I have changed the spark plugs, which were due anyway, and checked the coil pack. Every coil on each cylinder reads 0.8 ohms, so I am going on the assumption that they are ok. Didn't see any issue with the connector end inside the boot. However, when I changed the plugs, I discovered that I had oil in the plug tubes on 1 and 4. So I changed the valve cover gasket and tube rings and cleaned all oil residue from the packs. I have also checked the short coil wire harness right on the packs themselves. Have not tried to check further because I don't know which pins that harness goes to on which ECM connector. I still have the misfire, and I'm not sure where to go next. I was thinking compression or fuel injector. I don't have a compression tester, and I assume the only way I can check the injector is to swap it with another cylinder?
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My car has been really acting up lately (AGAIN) so I took it in to have it looked at and they came back and told me it had multiple cylinder misfire, and they wanted like $1200 to fix it. What in the world does that mean and what is entailed in fixing it? They mentioned doing a full maintenance on it.
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2007 accent randomly starts missing. throws cyl.3 missfire. replaced all plugs and cyl.3 coilpak.
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Yesterday while driving my wifes check engine light came on and started flashing so she limped the car home so that i could take a look at it. I know from previous issues it was a sever cylinder misfire. I hooked up a computer to it and got codes for cylinder 1 &2 having misfires. So today i went and bought new plugs and 2 new ignition coil packs. when i took out the coil pack on cylinder 1 it was broken off and the top of the plug was broken. (nothing entered the cylinder and there wasn't any noticeable oil. But when i changed cylinder2's plug it was covered in oil... i changed the plug and coil pack and cleared the codes from the computer and started it. there was some blue smoke coming out the back (lots actually) for a min or 2 then went to regular exhaust. what would cause the oil in cylinder 2 and possibly 1?
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I have a 2009 Accent. It has a misfire on cyl 3. I've changed the spark plugs... no change. I swapped around the coils... no change. The misfire stays on cyl 3. What are my next steps to isolate and resolve this misfire?
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My 2011 Accent's engine light came on recently. The mechanic said it was a cylinder 3 misfire and recommend changing the spark plug and coil pack for that cylinder. We did that over the weekend. Now the light is back on and has read 5 codes in the past 12 hours (4 at one time). They are P0303, P0304, P0003, P0403, and P0100. I have looked the codes up and can't discern if any could be caused by one main issue. About a month ago it read a code for the oxy sensor, but it went away and never came back.
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I have a 2009 Accent that has a wheel cylinder leaking. I don't have any flare nut wrenches. Its supposed be a 11 mm. I ran across a few WEB pages and videos that state that a 7/16" fits better? I know I could by both sets, 7/16 would be a better choice?
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This morning my son started the 2008 Accent and it ran really bad, he shut if off started it again and still ran really bad and check engine light started to flash. Shut it off and ran for the bus to school.
Went and picked up a OBD scanner and found a cylinder 1 misfire. Tried to start it and had a really hard time and when it did start ran like crap and smelled gas. Checked the codes again and now got Multiple cylinder misfires, cylinder 4 misfire and cylinder 1 misfire.
Pulled the engine cover to pull the coils and plugs and I find a ton of mouse crap. No signs of any chewed wires or anything that I could see. Drove it to the local Hyundai dealer tonight because I am worried that it may not be the coil packs. Drove OK to the dealer. My brother is the service manager at the local Mazda dealer and he sees a lot of mouse damage. Said I should put a couple of old socks with moth balls in the engine compartment to deter the mice.
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