Accent MC (2006-11) :: Misfire At Idle / Buzzing Sound Coming From The Injectors
Aug 15, 2012
OK, car has 94K miles, never had anything done to it, and the timing belt stripped out a bunch of teeth and bent the valves, you know the usual deal.
Pulled the engine apart, and order a head gasket set and scored a low miles head from a salvage yard. I was told the engine it came from was running fine but had a damaged timing cover so they parted out the engine, when i got the head the timing belt gear was bent and cracked, but i couldn't see any other damage and all looked good so i put it all in, and after having some trouble getting good info on where the timing marks are suppose to go i got it all back together and went to fire it up, start and die a couple times, i figured it was the fuel system re-priming itself, car starts and is running rough, i give it a few small revs and above about 2K it seems to run fine, but has def misfires at idle.
While i was looking around the engine bay checking over stuff i can hear a definite buzzing sound coming from the injectors, which i can tell you isn't normal, and is causing my problem i believe. The injector plugs are pretty straight forward, so im pretty sure i have them in the right spots.
The CEL came on, and i plugged in my code reader but was unable to connect to the ECM for some reason. Are these cars can bus?
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
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I just wanna know what is this low pitch buzzing sound on my left headlight when I switched key to ignite? When im outside the car, i can hear it in my left headlight. But when im inside the car, i can here it inside the high&low control of headlights (with numbers 0 1 2 & 3).
Before, when I am adjusting this control, the sound suddenly disappear for a second then it comes back. When im trying to push this control, the same. But now whatever adjustment or pushing to the control i am doing, the sound is still there continuously irritating to my ears.
My car model is Accent 2008....
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Another issue to my Accent 2009 model, when I switched the key to Ignite, I can hear a low pitch buzzing sound somewhere in the front of driver seat, maybe in the steering wheel column or under the dashboard I don't know. Even when I already started the engine, or even when I am already running slow or fast, the sound is still there. What is that sound?
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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2011 accent gs. We purchased the car brand new and it currently has roughly 32k miles on it. About a month ago the car started to misfire at an idle (in park and in gear stopped at a light, etc.). At this time, I purchased a new air filter, and a new set of autolite platinum plugs. Roughly 3 weeks later it started misfiring again. After a few internet searches it seemed as though some people don't like autolite platinum plugs. At this point I purchased a fresh set of NGK iridium ix plugs and figured that'd be the end of it. I test drove the car for almost an hour myself (the same night I repaired it) with no issue. On my wife's commute the very next morning it acted up again.
We took it to the dealer this morning, and I honestly don't believe what they're telling me. They are insisting the problem is with spark plugs. They say that the manufacturer recommends copper plugs only, and that would be step 1 of their diagnosis/repair which they want $130 for. At this point I declined their service, and they'll let me put copper plugs back in. They said that if it continues to act up to bring it back in after that. Ah yes, and during this whole time there has never been a check engine light.
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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My left headlight has been going off periodically, so to confirm that it's the bulb, tonight I switched the bulbs from left to right/right to left.
The job went very smoothly. It took me about 20 minutes, but I took my time. I buttoned everything back up and turned on the lights. Both sides came on, but I immediately noticed a very loud buzzing/whining sound coming from both headlamps. It is very loud and I know I would have noticed it before at some point over the course of the last three years that I've owned the car. Obviously, this is not normal, but I can't for the life of me figure out what I could have done wrong, if anything.
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Over the past few weeks, I have noticed a clicking sound coming from the right rear brake when they are moderately applied when stopping. Doesnt seem to happen under light braking. I figured something in there must have gotten loose so I got to taking the drum off to inspect and clean the insides, or see if anything was broken. Everything seemed to be in order, inside of the drum looks fine as do the shoes, Nothing is really jumping out at me as a cause to this noise. I hit the brakes with the shop vac to suck out any brake dust I could get.
Then, with the drum off, I had my fiance apply the brakes a few times, and the parking brake, just so I could see if something in there was not operating as it should. Heh. I dont think you are supposed to do that with the drum off. The shoe adjuster fell off the shoes (#2 below) So I had to get that back in place and I am pretty sure I have it in right. I go to put the drum back on, and the pads are now too far apart and it wont go back on.
So, I decide to try opening the bleeder valve on the brake cylinder to see if I can get the pads to move in at all. it drips but I cant get the pads to budge. Then I shortened up the shoe adjuster all the way so I could get the drum back on.
Now my parking brake lever, I have to pull it waaay up to even get the parking brake to engage. I figure I have to go back and crank that adjuster out some so the shoes engage sooner. Also, I probably got air in the brake line when I opened the bleeder, so I have to bleed the brakes for real.
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as the title says, my 2010 accent is at 81,000KM and i hear a ticking sound? is it the timing belt? when driving i dont hear any ticking but once stopped or idling i hear ticking and it never stops til i accelerate.
If it is timing belt, does this mean time for replacement? or what could it be?
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So I ended up removing my rear seats of my 2010 hatchback gs, but there is now a hissing sound coming from the rear where the seats were. The sound starts as soon as I start the car up until I shut the car off. I'm assuming that this noise has always been there just noticeable because of the seat removal. Is this just the fuel pump?
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So today I noticed a weird noise coming from the back from the car when i stop like a *clack clack clack* it doesn't always make the noise so i cant replicate it, what is it? I am taking it to the dealer next week but an insight will be good....
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Had this happen to me a few times now. Driving down the highway (120kph) in 5th, revving around 3,000 or so and whenever I hit a hill and come onto the gas pedal, I hear a ticking sound coming from up front. The harder I press on the gas - the louder it gets and vice versa.
Only happens in 5th and only under load. Scanned for codes - nothing, looked under the hood - looks normal. Timing belt was done around 56,000km, car has about 67,000km now and is in fantastic shape otherwise.
Spark plugs are still original and I have a new set waiting to go in, drive belts were replaced back in the spring but the tension is correct and all pulleys were checked okay at the time.
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I have a chirping/ squeaking sound in the engine extremely noticeable on idle. It's not the actual belt because it continues the noise much after the car is heated up. Have no clue what it is, I have 145000 miles. Also when running the engine hard notice a hissing sound sort of like turbo at high rpms especially with ac on high.
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I have an 01 Accent GL 1.6L. It will not turn over. Battery, terminals, and wires are all new. Alternator is also good. There is a buzzing noise coming from beside the cold air intake. I'm not sure what part that is. The part that is buzzing is where the cam position sensor is connected to. It also has wires that run into the firewall.
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My wife has a 2009 Accent base model. I recently heard a kind of buzzing from the speakers when the bass hits but it does not sound like they are blown, more like something is loose. How do I get to the speakers from above to check things out and see what it looks like?
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I bought my RX350 last month and sometimes I notice a strange buzzing sound coming from the car while the engine is off. This noise can come at anytime and usually hours after I have turned off my car. It's difficult to isolate where it's coming from and can last just a few minutes.
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There is a constant buzzing/clicking sound that seems to be coming from my navigation in the dash. It makes the noise all the time, not just at random times. It sounds as if the nav is trying to load something constantly? It is really strange, also sounds like a computer when you first start it up with the clicking and buzzing.
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I have a very strange sound coming from the multi color display in the instrument cluster. Whenever the display is on (no need to start the car, just open the door) there is a humming or buzzing sound. Not very loud, but loud enough to get on my nerves.
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I had a clutch replacement done on my 2004 Honda CRV EX at a local shop. The replacement was taking longer than anticipated because of rust accumulation. After I was told the replacement was near completed I received a phone call that there was a buzzing sound coming from the transmission that warranted taking out the transmission a second time to investigate the internal components and potential rebuild. Prior to the replacement being done I have never heard this sound and was told my the tow truck driver he hadn't heard the sound either.
I had another transmission specialist look at the vehicle and he pointed out that the gear fluid was near empty, and that there were fresh welds directly above the point where the buzzing sound was loudest. He concluded they may have dropped the transmission or potentially dropped something within the transmission while making a weld.Three separate transmission specialists have said it is very likely the result of the clutch replacement, and potentially the pilot or throw out bearings. How I should approach this issue as I have already invested $1500 in labor and clutch replacement and would like to avoid breaking the bank.
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