Accent MC (2006-11) :: Misfire / Car Stumbles On Acceleration And Idles Sporadically
Dec 20, 2016
After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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I've got 120,000 on my 08 manual Accent. Recently I've been getting white smoke after running it hard. It happens like this. I slow down from 70mph or so with the clutch engaged to about 40mph, then upon acceleration the engine stumbles and white smoke pours from the tailpipe. My guess is a leaky head gasket.
I had the dealer go through it. They pressure tested the cylinders and put a scope in them. They claim nothing is wrong with the engine.
I mentioned since they can vouch for the engine now, I'd like to get an estimate on trade in value. I don't think I want to keep it much longer.
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I've got a misfire problem with my Focus. It started about a month ago and did not trip a code until last week. It stumbles on acceleration between 2,000 and 4,000 rpms. It is only a slight stumble and although noticeable, it does not impede driveability much. Last week I was able to get it to finally trip an OBD code. P302 - Cylinder 2 misfire. I changed the plugs and wires with no effect. I thought I had it narrowed down to the coil or injector until my wife noticed a new wrinkle.
Under normal driving conditions the misfire is annoying, but my wife found that if she turns on the A/C, it is undriveable and will not accelerate past 30 mph without some patience and a neck brace for the bucking. My first thought was the A/C compressor was freezing up. I turned off the A/C and left the blower on and it would not stop missing. I turn off the blower and it smooths right out to the annoyance I described first.
Right now I drive the car without A/C and blower whenever I accelerate. If I'm going a steady speed, all is well and I can run the blower and A/C.
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I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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My '07 seems to stumble when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. At first I thought it was me as I spent the last six - seven years babying the tranny in my old Ford by 'lift shifting' but I've found it still does it somewhat when I'm accelerating and not letting off to let the car shift. Is this typical for the automatic in the Accent? I had the tranny serviced not 1,200 miles ago in June or July at Firestone and they assured me and showed me their fluid was compatible with SP III.
This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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Happened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
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I have an '88 Dakota, 230K miles, with the following problem:For the last month or so, the truck has been hard to start--had to crank once, wait 10 seconds or so, then crank again. Gradually, this problem increased to the point where it would stumble at WOT, then even at 3/4 throttle or so.Thinking it was the fuel pump, I replaced it, along with the filter.
Problem remains; in fact, it seems even worse, to the point where the truck only idles (can't put any load on it, or it stumbles). So, at this point I suspect the fuel pressure regulator. However, I don't want to buy it unnecessarily. Given that a F.P.R. is designed to send a part of the pump output back, would pinching off part/all of the return line be a valid diagnostic test?Anything else that comes to mind?
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1989 Chevy Corsica has lower than spec fuel pressure, but exhibits no problems under heavy acceleration at highway speeds (passing), so I'm not sure it's a problem (yet). When cold, seems fine. As warms up, starts to surge somewhat when driving around 30MPH and idles rough and stumbles when starting from a dead stop. No blink codes (except code 12) and no check engine light. I suspect a sensor, but which one(s)? Low fuel pressure or bad sensor?
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My 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
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I own a 2003 Ford Ranger 4x4 Automatic with the 4.0l V6. I bought the truck a little over two years ago with 150k miles. The Engine had alway had a slightly rough idle and I never really noticed until a friend pointed it out at around 170k. Every time the pump engages after a short warm up period there is a distinct stumble in the engine, although it never stalls or trips a check engine light. I have replaced the spark plugs with four prong pre gapped Bosch platinum plugs and new plug wires as well. I have installed an Optima red top battery that tests at 1100cca and have tested the voltage draw when the AC engages and it only drops .2 volts from 14.48v to 14.24v. I thoroughly cleaned the MAF sensor and before changing plugs I ran a can of non chlorinated brake cleaner through the throttle body to clean out carbon deposits and dirty throttle body. The engine still stumbles. Yesterday at 182k I disconnected the low pressure switch on the AC pump and boom, smooth low idle with no stumble. What could be wrong with the AC pump that could cause this stumble in the engine?
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My Venture LS is stumbling upon acceleration. It starts to occur around 35 mph and then continues with occasional smooth sailing. No rough idle and no stumble when coasting. I had the spark plugs and wires replaced at the dealer today and it did nothing. Fuel trim is fine, LT runs from 0 to - 5 . I replaced the MAF sensor a few months ago and all other sensors test OK on the scanner.
Also, I took my car to the dealership to have the plugs and wires replaced and they used the after market wires named Xact. I have never been to a dealer where they used aftermarket parts. I thought that they were required by GM to use their parts?
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THE FREQUENCY: This is a condition that has become progressively worse over the last six months. Initially it occurred once a week and now it is happening almost every day, lasts longer and is more acute.
THE SYMPTOMS: Initially and randomly, while driving at any speed, the car would begin to hesitate as if it might stall but did not- The hesitation was much like a shudder or power loss. At this time the check engine light would blink and stay on for a couple of days. This whole event would last less than a minute and the car would return to normal until the next one.
Now, six months later, it is occurring almost every day. At startup, at low speeds, at stop lights.... A LOT!
WHAT HAS BEEN DONE SO FAR: After frequent and unsuccessful visits to the Volvo Dealer all the plugs, the wires, the cap, and the rotor have been replaced with no luck.
The dealer says the code indicates a misfire on the #3 cylinder.
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The car takes off from a stop as it should. However, it shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd gear and that's when it stumbles and doesn't want to accelerate. It'll go if you press pedal at least halfway down. It runs great other than that. It only has 60k.
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We have a 1999 Audi A6 Avant (wagon) with about 190,000 miles. Best car we've ever owned, and want to keep her running until the wheels fall off (so to speak). We split our time between sea level and a ski town at 7000' (yes, that may be relevant).
Last spring our Trusty (sea-level) Mechanic repaired the exhaust system; both tailpipes were shot (car sounded like a tank). Rather than replace with Audi parts (was going to be a full exhaust system replacement - $000s) they spliced in some new tailpipe. Car ran quietly after that.
However, immediately thereafter (like, on my drive home from Trusty Mechanic's shop) and ever since the car will occasionally stumble (misfire) and throw a check-engine light. Typical scenario is after having been off the throttle while going downhill and then tipping into the throttle at the bottom of the hill, the car will stumble and on comes the CEL. Stumbling lasts 5-10 seconds then gradually subsides. Light stays on, though. Not 100% reproduceable under those circumstances (but doesn't really happen under other scenarios), but happens often enough to be disconcerting.
We recently decamped from sea level to spend the summer up in the mountains (great bicycling), and while the car misbehaved a couple of times on the way out of town, by the time we got to 5000 ft or so, the CEL was no longer illuminated. The car has not misfired once while at altitude despite plenty of situations that would presumably have triggered the issue, were we at sea level.
Trusty Mechanic has replaced some injectors, some coil packs, and the spark plug cables. No behavior change.
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I have a 1998 C1500 Silverado, with the 4.3 vortec engine, with 88k miles.
Upon initial acceleration the truck stumbles, sometimes even dies when taking off. I have had the codes read, and have gotten a P0102 and a P0404. I have swapped the MAF and EGR Valve out with a known good ones from the parts store; cleaned the throttle body; looked for vacuum lines that could be the problem but can't find anything.
I have even changed out the fuel filter since the engine sounds like it is starving.
Also, the transmission doesn't want to shift unless I let up on the acceleration pedal. I can get up to about 55 MPH and the RPMs sky rocket before it shifts, and the engine begins to ping before shifting.
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What is the easiest fix on this and what is the worse case scenario?
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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I am currently having an issue with my 07 Accent misfiring on cylinder 1. So far, I have changed the spark plugs, which were due anyway, and checked the coil pack. Every coil on each cylinder reads 0.8 ohms, so I am going on the assumption that they are ok. Didn't see any issue with the connector end inside the boot. However, when I changed the plugs, I discovered that I had oil in the plug tubes on 1 and 4. So I changed the valve cover gasket and tube rings and cleaned all oil residue from the packs. I have also checked the short coil wire harness right on the packs themselves. Have not tried to check further because I don't know which pins that harness goes to on which ECM connector. I still have the misfire, and I'm not sure where to go next. I was thinking compression or fuel injector. I don't have a compression tester, and I assume the only way I can check the injector is to swap it with another cylinder?
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My car has been really acting up lately (AGAIN) so I took it in to have it looked at and they came back and told me it had multiple cylinder misfire, and they wanted like $1200 to fix it. What in the world does that mean and what is entailed in fixing it? They mentioned doing a full maintenance on it.
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2007 accent randomly starts missing. throws cyl.3 missfire. replaced all plugs and cyl.3 coilpak.
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