Accent MC (2006-11) :: Low Purge Flow And Misfire - Transmission Shaky At Higher Revs
Nov 8, 2016
I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent 4-door 1.4L auto, 123,000 miles.
Before you ask: The high mileage is because it's used for a newspaper route. We(as in, myself and my father) take great efforts to keep it in as good a shape as possible given the amount of stress this puts on it - one minor deer impact aside, I think we've done a good job.
Recently(read: a week ago), we replaced the purge flow valve due to it causing stalls and difficulty starting after refueling. After a week of apparently fine operation, as I was nearing completion of the route, a very clear cylinder misfire began. Not the worst misfire I've ever heard - the car barely seemed to struggle on initial acceleration(except in reverse, which made me slightly concerned I wasn't feeling an engine issue, but a transmission issue), and only got really shaky at higher revs.
We have an OBD-II reader at home, so when I returned I plugged it and discovered not one, but TWO error codes: P0497 -low purge flow- and P0301 -Cylinder 1 misfire- with the reader listing them in that order.
Looking up information on these two being connected has turned up little support - I've only learned that either one can be cause and effect. Needless to say given timing I strongly believe that it is highly likely that we either made a mistake installing the new valve, or that the new valve was bad from the get-go.
We'll be checking the spark plugs as soon as we are able(I am about to go to sleep and my dad has work - we tag team automotive repairs since two sets of eyes and two brains can figure things out better and an extra set of hands is always good to have ready even if only one set can actually do the job), but even if the problem isn't the spark plugs, it doesn't automatically mean it's the purge valve, either - at least as I understand things.
So with the background out of the way, my questions are thus:
1) Is the spark plugs don't fix anything, what is the quickest way to figure out which error is cause and which error is effect?
2) Are there any serious risks to continuing to run the car in this state if a fix cannot be made immediately? (being able to borrow another car is possible, but problematic - need to stick with this car if safely doable)
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For the past couple weeks my check engine light has come on due to the code reading high purge flow sensor. I checked my gas cap, lines that run from motor to the gas tank and the purge flow that's under the intake. Can't figure out what is exactly going on. And it has 53k miles and runs just fine...
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Not too terribly long ago I got assistance on identifying and fixing an engine misfire on my 2009 Accent. I assumed was directly connected has cropped up again - a P0497 Low Purge Flow error has come up on the car.
We recently replaced the purge flow valve, and everything seems to be running fine - there is no visible cause for the error, and I've even tried making sure I get the fuel cap as tight as possible.
The code is not popping up constantly - this is only the second time it's come up since the misfire was fixed(without obvious symptoms I always clear a code once just to make sure it wasn't a computer glitch), and the first time it popped up on it's own was the day after I fixed the misfire. Need to know what to check to find out what's wrong and, of course, how much priority I should place on fixing this issue.
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I don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
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My accent currently has just under 17k and about two months ago displayed a cel. I plugged in my innova 3100 code scanner and it displayed p0441. saying it was incorrect purge flow. My question is.. is this covered under the factory warranty. I'm on a very tight budget and I'm trying to find out before going in and finding out. I've owned Hyundai's since 2002 and so far have never paid for an out of pocket repair. But it doesn't hurt to check ahead.. And I've already gotten the standard "it's your gas cap". Ok I'd buy that if it was 10yrs old but it's only a yr and a half old. besides it only goes half a turn then clicks. so it kind of either seals or it doesn't.
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About a month ago the "Check VSC" warning came on in my 2006 GS300 AWD. This happened after the car was in the garage all night and when I started the car in the morning. The car was at the dealer for 2 days and the saved codes showed multiple errors for the evap system, but they couldn't find anything specifically wrong and the light warning went off after all the systems checked out.
A week later the warning came on again, and the codes indicated incorrect purge flow and a gross leak. After 3 days in the shop they decided that the problem was caused by a faulty gas cap, which was replaced. You guessed it! A week later the warning came on AGAIN! I'm taking the car to the shop on Thursday. I'm really getting tired of driving my car 40 miles to the dealer just to have the warning show up again in another week!
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The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.
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My 06 accent GLS has become difficult to start only after refueling, which I'm guessing is related to a bad purge control valve from what I've read. Where exactly is the valve located, and is this something that someone with relatively little automotive repair experience could do on their own? I think I've located it on the backside of the engine near the air intake.
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Replacing part 9C915 ?
"CODE P0443 canister purge fault" diagnosed....
Found: EVAP PURGE FLOW VALVE STICKING
Recommending: "Diag, Replace sensor then retest" ....
They want to install a new 9C915 which they called in hand writing a Canister purge sensor but I've seen it called a canister purge valve on another thread by FIREME who puts 9C915 as "toward the driver's headlight assembly, near the radiator. You'll need an 8mm socket to remove it"...
3.0L DURATEC FFV V6 ENGINE
From the "newly washed ashore" who's now double posting after being flogged for trying to keep this info in a single thread rather than spreading it all over the place...
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I have a 06 Elantra having a problem with a p0441 code flow fault I changed purge valve and canister purge valve I don't know what else to do what else can I do to get it to go away permanent so I can get car inspected no codes for my car can be on but only 1 i/m
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The check engine light on my 99 Camry went on at about 180,000 miles. My mechanic checked the code and turned up an EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM INCORRECT PURGE FLOW He said this could be any number of things,including the need for a gas cannister or some type of valve. What does this mean? How do you determine exactly what the cause of the problem is? What are the likely fixes? Will Toyota be able to better determine the cause than my personal mechanic? What are the best options?
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So I had a post up saying "is MIL P1444 a urgent fix" and I got "no". On an other website though it said that it was an urgent fix. They said it was "similar to running a bad catalytic converter. You don't want to do it."
P1444:
Possible causes
- Faulty Purge Flow Sensor
- Purge Flow Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Purge Flow Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
So I located the purge flow sensor and look at the tube that connects to that,the canp solenoid, and the carbon canister. Nothing looks bad, but I did notice that the tube that connects to the carbon canister to the solenoid is not connected. The part that connects to the carbon canister dry rotted off. So I turned on my car to see if anything was coming out of that tube or air and there was nothing (not sure if that's good or bad). Also a week ago when I filled up my gas tank (before the check engine light was on) a lot of fumes were coming out of the tank while pumping.
The scanner i use also lists the secondary air system, the EVAP system, Heated catalyst, and the AC refrigenant has red X's, but they weren't continuous.
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Just received a P0441 CEL (Evap Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow). I have a 2.7l engine, 2WD. I've read other forums and it seems it's most likely the purge valve or charcoal canister.
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I've had the check engine light come on and was told it was probably from topping up too much and that it would go off on it's own... I should say I have no issues with idle or rough starts.
I had it scanned at Auto Zone. The print out shows: "EVAP emission system incorrect purge flow probable cause
1) Faulty purge control solenoid
2) Faulty vent solenoid
3) Blocked vapor canister
Previous posts suggest if it were a blocked vapor canister I'd have trouble completely filling the tank so I am hoping it's one of the others. Almost everything I see suggests the purge control and that looks like an easy fix. My concerns are a) if it is the vent solenoid - how hard is that to get at and b) what is the part number as I can't find it listed anywhere? I want to have both on hand before I start trying to fix this. Lastly if it is the vent solenoid should I just give up and see a dealer??
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So I tried to launch my 04 accent today, but when I threw it into 2nd, all I got was engine revs. 3rd, 4th, 5th and reverse all work fine, but 1st won't work at all, and I can only get 2nd to work if I shift into 1st before hand. My question is what broke?
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2009 accent, cant find its location. Picture would be nice...
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Owning a Hyundai. I have a problem and it seems to be pretty common but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Last week my 2004 accent 1.6 manual transmission started running rough. It was idling higher than normal and while driving would not go past a certain rpm (about 2500 if I had to guess,no tach). On the way home from work it was running this way and then started badly misfiring and shut off, when attempted to restart it would not. I pulled the codes with a scanner and got p2400, p0562, and p0121. I charged the battery and replaced the throttle position sensor, still won't start. I can hear the fuel pump kicking on when I turn on the ignition. Also found the ecu 1 fuse blown, replaced it and continued to attempt to start with no luck, fuse was blown again. Like I said I haven't owned the car long and I don't know much about it. I am not sure where to go from here and I don't know how all these symptoms are tied together.
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I just bought a 2011 accent 5 spd ... Quick question, when I drive it at highways speeds. (65mph) I notice that i am running around 3500 revs. Is that normal? It seems a little high to me. Every other 4 banger I had never ran that high in 5th gear at 65 mph.
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My driver side is higher than the passenger, how do you adjust the headlights?
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So I just got a bunch of work done on my car: the timing belt, spark plugs, serpentine belt and water pump were just replaced. I had the oil changed, the fluids changed, new front tires, and an alignment all about a month ago, but now every time i turn my car on there is a squealing noise coming from my engine (i assume a belt). Then when i get to higher speeds the entire car shakes, but more so on the drivers side. I have also noticed my brakes just starting to squeal as well, but the shaking was occurring before that. What it might be?
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
hatchback standard
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I only use AC in the summer around here, not year 'round. When I turn it on, I notice that the engine revs higher when turning the compressor, which cycles on and off. It's only a few hundred RPM, but it's quite noticeable and will make the truck surge forward when sitting at a traffic light. The dealer says this is how the AC works on a GX, so I've gotten used to it.
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