Accent MC (2006-11) :: Low Bass Rumble And Minor Vibes At Idle
Nov 5, 2012
I have a mint condition 2008 Accent with only 34K miles. Never had major problems, keep oil changed. Back in summer I noticed a low-pitch noise resonating from the engine or exhaust, and the car seemed to shake a little more (idle at full operating temp is stable @ about 750). It was right after a 600-mile round trip to NYC and back...unfortunately we sat in traffic for three hours waiting to cross the GW bridge with the car and A/C running (it was very hot).
After returning home is when I first noticed noise and vibration difference with or without A/C when slowing down at light or at stopped at idle. I replaced plugs with Bausch--no change. I replaced again last month with EGK--no change. Last week I found #1 cylinder coil corroded and wet from engine degreaser that leaked into the valve cover, which was causing #1 misfire. I replaced coil and engine seemed fine for first day, but now back to original low rumble sound and minor vibration. Dealer checked it out and couldn't duplicate or find anything. New tires and all new belts--no change before or after. No engine light.
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My wife has a 2009 Accent base model. I recently heard a kind of buzzing from the speakers when the bass hits but it does not sound like they are blown, more like something is loose. How do I get to the speakers from above to check things out and see what it looks like?
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Like the title says. All of a sudden when I put the car in reverse I got a rumble and the car vibrates some.
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My wife drives a 2006 Honda Civic. She just drove back from Vermont - we live near Boston - and on her way back the idle was unusually rough and twice she said it felt as if she was driving over rumble strips, even though she was on smooth pavement. The first time she was going 40 and the second time she was barely moving. She also noted that once, at a stop sign, the car wouldn't slowly move forward when she took her foot off the brake, as it usually does. She had to give it gas. The thing is, the problem is very intermittent.
She says the only thing that is constant is the rough idle, but the engine check light is NOT on.
The last work that was done on the car, about a month ago, was the replacement of the calipers and shoes on one of the brakes. My wife had driven for some time with the squealing noise that indicates you need to change your brake shoes without telling anyone about it. She used the radio fix.
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Yesterday I was driving home from a long road trip (1425 miles in 2 days) and I was listening to my stock radio/speakers. It was a bit chilly with the front windows down, but too warm with them up and I didn't want to turn on the a/c. (no specific reason. I just didn't want to). So I thought I would just open the back windows.
As soon as I did this, the radio bass was just shaking the whole car. It was nuts. I wasn't even listening to anything with a strong bass to it. I closed the windows, it went away. It was better when I turned off the super bass, but I found this odd. Especially since I see people put these large speaker boxes in the trunk.
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I have upgraded my sound system in my car and sometimes i get a P0326 check engine light.
Now i was wondering if its possible that the Heavy bass ( 25/40 Hz, 1200 Watt RMS and 2500 watt Max) Subwoofers could cause the car to vibrate so much that it sets of the knock sensor?
I have read some things about it but i only found that several "Old" cars with OBDII would have this problem? Is that the same on this hyundai accent?
It only comes once in a while after long cruises and bumping.
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I have a 2001 accent. I have noticed recently that there is a noise coming from the rear of the car. This is a rumble type noise which changes as I speed up or slow down ( It sounds as if it is something to do with the tyres)! I have changed the rear hub assembly and had the wheels aligned but the noise is still present. I have checked the suspension (by pushing down the back of the car) and it appears to be acceptable. Where this noise may be emanating from?
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2008 accent. My check engine light came on this morning on my way to work. All of a sudden, while turning onto a street, the CEL light flashed and came on in the car. I noticed that when idling my RPM's are sitting just under 1000 and it will drop to about 500 then come back up around 1000 for a couple seconds before dropping again to close to 500. On takeoff the engine rattles and seems very boggy and slow to take off. Once I am at a higher RPM and on my way, the shaking stops and car drives as normal.
Like I said, it's a 2008 sport model, standard transmission and about 78K kms on it.
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My 2011 Hyundai Accent 1.6 runs fantastic and has since I purchased it three year's ago until two weeks ago when my domestic partners friend changed the spark plugs, oil, air filter and stuff so I could go on a short trip and back. About 200 miles into it I pulled into a rest stop and noticed it was rough before I put it in park. As soon as I put it in reverse it was running rough and sounded like it was going to die. Forty miles later the check engine light was on and it was running terrible. A parts store recommended different spark plugs. A nice man who was there overheard the conversation and offered to put them in for me since I know nothing about doing. He said he gapped the spark plugs at 0.40? When I started it it ran like a dream until about 75 miles later and it began doing it again but the light never came on. It is doing the same thing which is a rough idle when stopped but it smooths out when I put it in park.
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Recently got broadsided (passenger), got the body fixed up. Now it is Misfiring on idle and only on idle...
Prior to this I had Coil go out on me, got that changed out, changed the spark plugs. It was running great then the accident happened an this Misfire on idle problem.
Took it to the shop, had them check for a code, no code. They suggested that it made be do to carbon buildup from the previous misfiring issue and suggested using STP engine treatment on it.
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I read at Edmunds that some customers were having problems with the sub woofer causing a rattle whenever they were playing a song with heavy bass. They took it too their dealership and the dealer just told the customer to turn down the base.
That clearly is NOT a fix. It's more of a work around. I was having the same problem with my Azera. As I like my music with heavy base and quite loud, this was becoming quite annoying.
I decided to investigate the problem and discover that the door to the baby seat anchor on the driver side was sitting on the metal underneath the headboard. I got some weather stripping and cut out a couple of 1 inch strips. I then stuffed them under the plastic cooler which surrounds the baby seat achor. My sound system is now clean at any volume level.
If your having a similar problem, open the doors to your baby seat anchors and gently pull up on them. This will pull the head board off the metal underneath. If the rattle goes away, you'll know where to place your weather stripping.
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I'm suspecting a small valve cover gasket leak. I've noticed dirt starting to accumulate near the alternator side of the front valve cover, there is dirt on there stuck to oil, I don't see any wet oil but its so minor the dirt just sticks to it. 107k miles here. Seems to be a common problem. I think Downhiller had a large oil leak, source unknown around his crank pulley area. You wouldn't think a car this young would leak oil. It's not bad, I havn't had to top any off I just like a mildly clean engine.
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2008 Accent. 230,000 km's. Most regular maintenance done (belts, oil changes, filters etc). Had to replace a few coil packs in the past like everybody else with this car.
Current problem: Car was working well. It then sat for 3 days (it was cold). Now when I am in park or in drive but idle (worse) the engine will shudder at random intervals. I don't notice/hear anything when driving more than 20kmh. For the first 2 days of driving it was pretty bad while idling. The engine light went on and then turned off later in the day (before I read the code and have since reset the computer so can't read it). It would do what I'm assuming is a misfire every few seconds. It's a bit better after a few more days but still is misfiring. During the 'chug' or 'shudder' the RPM drops ever so slightly, and the headlights and dash lights dim slightly as well. When I am driving and first come to idle, it's not too bad. Maybe 1 'chug' in 10 seconds. As I idle longer is gets more frequent. No more engine light after that first day.
I unplugging each coil pack and each one when unplugged made things way worse. I assume it's not those again. Battery was tested. It's older and should get replaced this year but it was still reading strong. Alternator was tested and is fine. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer but that hasn't worked.
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I've had my 2010 Accent for about 9 months. It's got about 63K miles on it. Serviced regularly, no issues there. Yesterday while coming home from a road trip....6 hours there, heavy driving while in town, 6 hours back 2 days later, the check engine light came on the dash. I then noticed that the car was idling very rough. When I put it in gear after starting, I can visibly see the car the shake. Having major problems accelerating, I have to mash the gas to the floor to make it go. Shutting off the air conditioner seems to work a bit, but not totally.
I should note that I live in the South East US, it was over 95 degrees when we left town and the destination was over 100 the entire time we were there. I was told this could be vapor lock, but am not sure about what to do to clear that when the temps won't drop around here for some time. I took it to AutoZone this morning to have them read the codes on the check engine light and was told that their code reader was incompatible with my car.
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I have a 2009 Accent and after about 20 minutes of driving it started running really rough and my check engine light came on. It's worse at an idle (feels like it's going to stall out) but isn't quite as bad when I rev it. My first thought is water in the gas tank since we've had a lot of rain for the past week or so and I filled it up a day or two ago.
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I recently changed my spark plugs, timing belt, and PCV valve. I have a throttle bypass, air intake, only mods on the car. The car has been recently idling rough when in drive and at a light. basically the car wants to shut off but doesnt and the idle fluctuates. What it can be the car has 57k miles on it...
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2006 Azera Limited; 221k miles
I'm a new owner of an old Azera. It's become apparent I'll soon be busting my knuckles ferreting out suspension noises. I gather from perusing various forums that suspension noise is a common complaint with the Azera.
In my particular case, the car makes two distinct noises which seem to come from front right corner. I here "clicking" when driven over minor road imperfections, and "scrunching" when driven over speed bumps. It's likely two (or more) disparate parts have failed.
I noticed significant cracks in both sides of the bushing located where the shock absorber mounting fork (54682-3K000) bolts to the lower control arm (54501-3L000). I'll replace this bushing then determine if doing so remedies the clicking noise at this corner. If replacing this bushing fixes the "clicking" noise, I'll replace its counterpart at the other corner, then move on to identify the scrunching sound.
My problem is, I cannot find a part number for this bushing! ...nor can I find a procedure to replace it. I presume it's just a matter of digging out the old bushing and press-fitting (with soap) the new bushing in its place. Surprisingly, the service manual (first edition) does provide any guidance.
I need the part number for this bushing and tips/tricks for installing it into the lower control arm.
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I have a 2007 Lexus GS 350 with the Mark Levinson audio system. I am starting to hear a sound from the passenger side door speaker like a rattling when there is low bass in a song. I wanted to know much it should cost me to have all the speakers replaced to higher quality ones.
I don't need crazy bass that will make my windows shatter, however currently these speakers feel like if I put any hip hop or dubstep on more speakers will blow. I do NOT want to have to cut any part of my car to install new speakers, I am not comfortable with someone cutting holes or making bigger holes to fix the new speakers.
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I have another question my front speakers work, they produce vocals and bass. My back speaker only produce bass! NO VOCALS? Why? Is this normal? I only realized this today. I drive a 2006 ford f150 supercab.
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For a couple months now, maybe longer, my 2010 Accent has developed a funny "rough sputter" I would call it at idle. It seems to be getting worse and worries me now. The RPMs fluctuate as it happens. The CEL has never come on throughout this. I'm not 100% sure it's not present when driving.
I did not replace the Fuel Filter at four years or the Fuel Air Filter at two years & four years. Could this be a Fuel Filter related problem?
I got out of my car today to listen to it and noticed the exhaust was intermittent along with hearing the car sputter.
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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