Accent MC (2006-11) :: Locked Into Failsafe Mode 3rd Gear
Feb 11, 2013
Problem started after an ignition coil went bad where '06 Accent w/ 45000 miles locks into 3rd gear failsafe mode. Changed coil and plugs, flushed transmission fluid and refilled with SPIII. Old fluid was very dirty but not full of metal bits. Car still goes into failsafe first time it reaches 3rd gear after initial startup. If you disconnect and reconnect battery after driving for 1-2 miles in 3rd gear the car works fine. Even after sitting for an hour and still slightly warm car works fine. If car gets cold again 2-3 hours later in winter you go into failsafe in first mile. Once again battery disconnect/reconnect puts it back to normal. I assume it is some type of sensor going bad and don't want to have a repair shop replacing good parts.
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I have a 2004 F-150 Lariat with a 5.4. (FYI-Have not had clockspring recall fixed yet)
124K miles. Vehicle has been operated in AZ and TX only until coming to Minot, ND 6 weeks ago.
3 days ago I got an "Engine Failsafe Mode" on startup. I shut the vehicle off immediately. Started it up again and the "Engine Failsafe Mode" message disappeared, but the engine light came on and has stayed on for the last 3 days. It seems to be running ok, maybe a little rough.
I ran the reset info on the dash screen and all systems read out OK. I have not run the truck over 40 mph since, and not on the highway, but it seems to accelerate without a lot of hesitation.
I've seen in other forums that this might be a dirty or faulty throttle body and/or the dealer may be able to re-flash with updates but this is old 2004 info from newer owners back then.
What am I looking at from a time/price angle when going to the Dealer for service? I don't want to replace a throttle body if it just needs to be cleaned and re-flashed because I'm ignorant.
Anything I should watch out for? I'm not a competent mechanic!
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So my Explorer is a 2004 Eddie Bauer v-6 with about 93K miles, great condition, very clean and never had any issues. I've had it about 6yrs.
For maybe 3-4 years now the truck has seemingly randomly gone into Engine Failsafe Mode in the message center. I haven't noticed any pattern here as to when/why this occurs. The wrench icon lights up as well as the Service Engine Soon light. Sometimes I seem to notice a change in power/performance but often I don't. There are times when this happens every few days, and sometimes it goes weeks without occurring. Often it just goes out of Failsafe Mode after I've turned the truck off and restarted and seems fine again. For all of these years this has been a nuisance more than anything and so I assumed(hoped) it was just a sensor issue and nothing to be worried with.
A few days ago the truck actually shut off while driving...losing power, immediately after it kicked into Failsafe Mode while driving slowly down a straight road (no inclines or anything). Today it went into Failsafe mode, and it kept running, however the gas pedal did nothing...I couldn't accelerate at all though I still had power. Coasted to a stop. Turned truck off, started right up and the gas pedal worked fine. 15 minutes later same thing...this time when I coasted to a stop...I noticed that when I put truck in reverse I WAS able to back up using the gas pedal but couldn't go forward. Turned truck off, ran fine though still in Failsafe Mode...drove home where it sits now.
Don't really wanna drive it now though I need it as my only source of transportation. I did have the scan done on it at Autozone a month or so ago and got the P2106 "Throttle Actuator Control System--Forced Limited Power" reading...which of course means nothing to me...and the guys who worked there had no idea either. I had the oil changed at Midas yesterday where they checked fluids and all that good stuff...I mentioned it before hand and they said they looked at anything they could and couldn't find anything without running diagnostics on it...I didn't have them do this as it is quite costly and at that point I hadn't experienced the issue with losing acceleration/gas pedal functioning while driving down the road.
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Well my p2106 code seems to be different from all the other ones Ive read. I get the p2106 code after the truck goes into "FAILSAFE MODE" and it only goes into failsafe mode the moment the truck reaches 40mph and then loses all its power. I turn the truck off and back on and its back to normal until I go 40mph again. I scan it and only get one code p2106. The truck idles and runs perfectly until it reaches 40mph! I've replaced the entire throttle body with a new one from ford and it keeps doing the same thing. I don't want to keep buying electronic parts as they are not returnable. My truck is a 2005 Expedition with 72k miles on it
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2005 ford f-150 Lariet goes into failsafe mode while driving on freeway. This is a dangerous situation happened ever.
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I was driving along today and my dash lit up light a Christmas tree. I got PCS, ABS, Brake and BSM lights and I was locked out of first gear in manual mode. Other than the lights and having to driving in auto mode, the car drove fine. When I got home I inspected the rear suspension and saw that the driver's side speed sensor's rubber shielding where it attaches to control arm was damaged. It was not completely severed, but there was a hole and some exposed copper wiring. I had SPC rear control arms and RSR coilovers installed and the car was lowered about 1.3 inches in rear. I was able to use extra copper wire and electrical tape to temporarily fix the problem. After all the wires where connected and shielded with electrical tape, I got zero lights when I started the car.
I'm not sure how it happened. Maybe the wire was damaged during install or it was pinched due to car being lowered. Whatever the case, make sure the wire is secured in a way to avoid being pinched during suspension travel. I ordered the new wire and will attempt to replace. Looks pretty straight forward except the wire goes into the interior of the car somewhere. I read that I will have to remove rear seats. If so, that should be pretty easy. Is there something I'm missing? Will any of the rear interior need to be removed? How to do this?
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I have a UK right-hand drive Prius gen 2 2006 T4 model.
My rear door on the driver's side won't unlock. it appears to be stuck in double locked mode. It cant be unlocked manually from inside the car and the lock button just springs back to lock position (as you'd expect it to do when in double lock mode).
I can lock/unlock the car other 3 doors using the fob, I can lock/unlock the cars other 3 doors using the internal button on the driver's door.
I suspect there must be a failure of the lock motor or solenoid inside the door but I cant figure out how to get the door unlocked just so i can get the trim off and check. What the cause or remedy could be?
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2008 Hyundai Accent ... ~105k miles ... Up to date on scheduled service
So my wife was driving today, in mildy wet conditions, around a turn at low speed. This occured during light acceleration to prepare to pull onto a highway, so the brake pedal was not engaged. She says that she felt both front wheels lock up simultaneous, and unexpectedly. The rear wheels continued to roll, but caused the car to slide sideways off the road. The front brakes did not release for several additional minutes. Then she pulled off the side of the road and drive ~1/4 mile to park the car at our home.
From researching on the internet, I saw that there may be a problem with the brake master cylinder, or possibly contamination in the brake fluid. The brake fluid has not been serviced recently, and the brakes are a few months old. No other problems or strange noises we have noticed before this. The service center is not able to take us in for a few days, and given the safety concerns, I do not want to service it myself without being able to definitively diagnose what the issue is. The last thing I want is to service "A" and find out the hard way it was a problem with "B".
How I would confirm that diagnosis, and then initiate the repair?
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I have a 2008 Accent with 136,000 km on it. A few days ago I parked with the wheels slightly turned and the steering wheel totally locked, the key couldn't turn and the wheel couldn't be unlocked by pushing it either way. I called CAA and the driver had no luck but he tapped the key lightly with a wrench while it was in the ignition and it started. I took it to the mechanic yesterday and they had the same problems and called a locksmith who specializes in automotive locks.
They told me to take it to the dealership because they thought it was something further inside. Something was bugging me and I realized what it was. When the car was parked and the key wasn't in the ignition, as soon as I opened the driver side door the chimes went off. I closed the door, tried to lock it from outside with the remote but it wouldn't lock and the alarm wouldn't engage. I called my mechanic to tell him this and we all agreed that it seemed the car thought the key was in the ignition even though it wasn't.
I went to the dealership and left it and they called and said it was the ignition cylinder that needed replacing. Does this sound right?
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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I have the 12 Accent GL Auto, I have about 161,000 km, and recently say 3 months I've been hearing/feeling this click click noise come from under the car whenever I am in "manual" mode in 1st gear coming from a stop, now I`m 99% sure its not the brakes releasing because I just replaced both my caliper's in the rear and pads and rotors all the way around, And I know this sound because I've had the problem (twice) were my brakes stick so I'm very familiar with that sound this is something different, I want to say transmission because it only does this in 1st gear manual mode, but i know where the transmission is on this car, and this sound isn't coming from where the transmission is, more like under the firewall ( where the trans would be on a RWD car).
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I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
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My auto transmission in my 2007 Elantra with 125,000 miles went into default mode, stuck in 3rd gear. No codes went off. I drove it home this way, but after sitting for 90 minutes, now it works fine. I've heard about the input and output sensors. What should I replace? I went to HMA service to get info on both sensors, but it wasn't detailed enough.
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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I seem to have locked myself into valet mode. I have searched this, read the manual, tried everything still cannot get out of valet mode.
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I had to do some work on the car which required disconnecting the battery, Usually the radio goes into safe mode which I unlock using the 4 digit code. However this time i entered the wrong code and the radio went into 02 safe mode?? Now the radio is not responding at all to any inputs from the buttons, its literally locked. I have disconnected the battery again and left it for a bit hoping it would clear it but no luck it still says 02 safe and I can't enter the code to unlock it.
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My '07 seems to stumble when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. At first I thought it was me as I spent the last six - seven years babying the tranny in my old Ford by 'lift shifting' but I've found it still does it somewhat when I'm accelerating and not letting off to let the car shift. Is this typical for the automatic in the Accent? I had the tranny serviced not 1,200 miles ago in June or July at Firestone and they assured me and showed me their fluid was compatible with SP III.
This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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So I bought a used Accent last July (40k miles), and recently after I started to randomly lose my first gear about a month or so from driving it. Whenever I stop at a light the RPM will hover over one, but not go down. I thought at first it was some weird thing with the sensors as it only happened when I was low on gas, however now it does it every time I drive. I notice a lurch forward right before it does this.
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I noticed this week the gear shift light was out on my 2008 Accent GLS. I tapped the side of it and it came back. Next day, same behavior.
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I own a out of warranty 2008 Accent manual, now on 94 000km/58 408 miles. This morning, it started to not engage 2nd gear, then when I press the pedal hard it does, then sometimes 4th gear. What could be at fault here, and how do I fix it?
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I have brand new ( 800KM ) Accent with Automatic transmission and I noticed that it shifts from 1st gear into 2nd kinda rough. By this I mean that I can feel shift pretty good, and I don't feel shifts from 2 to 3 to 4. I don't rev engine high, typically shifts occur when engine revs around 2000 rpm.
I am not sure if it is a transmission defect or this is the way it shifts? May be I need to breaking my car first and it will go away?
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