Accent MC (2006-11) :: Interior Light Did Not Come On / FOB Battery Went Dead
Dec 1, 2011
So this morning I was going to my car and pushed the unlock button on my key FOB....nothing. Weird, thought maybe my FOB battery was dead. Opened the door with the key and noticed that my interior light did not come on. My battery is only a few months old, so i didnt think it could be that. Went to turn ignition...nothing, no crank no lights dimming..zero power at all. I opened up the hood and as i did so, i saw the lights on the interior come on. I tried to start it and it started right up. I let it sit for a minute and the car just died out. No power again. I looked at the battery terminal connections and all seemed to be ok, nothing loose etc. Then in about a minute, the power came back. Ended up driving the car to work, about 30 miles, and so far it is ok. I'm afraid of getting stuck somewhere, but i dont even know where to begin to troubleshoot. Figured it can't be a fuse or it wouldn't cycle power like that. Connections to the battery seemed ok and even when i wiggled them, nothing happened.
I have an 07 with about 115k on it.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent. The interior dome light won't turn on, the trip mileage recycles every time the car turns on, the feature that won't let the locks lock while the key is in the ignition and the car is off doesn't work (what's that called), and the dashboard clock is dead.
The visor fell off and the two wires that provided the lighting for the visor mirror touched something, and I guess, shorted everything. Is there a fuse(s) I can change or do I need some serious electrical repair?
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I was just wondering if it's worth the hassle to change the interior light color on the cluster, etc from green in my 09 to the bluish white seen in the 2010 & up models as I much prefer that.
Also, I have tinted my tail lights but I have some creasing from the curved shape. I plan on removing it & starting again but I was just wondering if there were any tips or tricks to make it a bit easier?
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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A month ago my battery light was coming on and disappeared a few hours later and I thought it was the oem battery. I changed the battery as alternator seems working fine based on scangage that i have. After sometime light sometimes comes on again and disappear. I like to fix this as this is annoying to see on the dashboard. Where else do i need to look. Checked connections they are tight and clean. Only aftermarket stuff i have is the fog light. Not sure a loose connection somewhere may cause this?
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For the past 3 weeks or so (ever since it really started getting cold, highs in the 50F range or lower ) I've been having an issue where my seatbelt light on the dash will randomly light up and blink for a few seconds. I can find no rhyme or reason, it didn't appear to be linked to a loose buckle, or me going over bumps, or anything at all related to what my searches came up with for 'Seat belt light' on google and here on the forum. I had almost given up hope until a new symptom appeared.
A little less than 2 weeks ago I noticed that my battery light would also blink, very briefly, also seemingly at random. It could happen while sitting at a traffic light, or while cruising down the road at 60mph. Again, no apparent rhyme or reason. HOWEVER, every time the battery light would blink, even for a split second, the seatbelt light would then blink for about 6 seconds.
For clarification, I have seen the seatbelt light blink without the battery light, but I've never seen the battery light blink without the seatbelt light immediately starting to also blink.
So now that the battery light and the seatbelt light appeared to be linked, I figured that either my alternator or battery was giving out so I went by the auto part store to have them test it. Well, according to their fancy doohickey both the battery and the alternator are fine, but the battery was low on charge.
Well, I did some testing on my own with a multimeter attached to the battery and while the battery does still read low (~12.5V), it doesn't sag under load with the engine off and the alternator appears to be putting out the appropriate ~14.2V expected.
So I am now at a loss as to what to try. I've checked all the electrical connections I can get my hands/wrenches on and they all look good and tight with no corrosion. I'm almost to the point where I'm going to buy a new alternator and throw it on.
96k miles
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6 months ago After replacing both the battery and the alternator..The seat belt light and battery light both began flashing and then going off ..with no loss of power.. It has been coming on a lot more lately,with no loss of power...I do have a mass air flow code coming up with no issues as far as the car goes..no issues driving. So with a new alternator and battery put in what can be the issue?
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The battery warning light keeps coming on, stays for a bit and goes off.. not an everyday thing..I took it to the dealer and they said alternator is the problem, had it changed today and while driving back from the dealership the light came on again. What could it be?
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I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
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I have a 2010 Accent GS. I was trying to change the bulb in the trunk light. I changed the bulb and now none of the lights inside the car work-- map lights, dome light, trunk light. I figured it was a blown fuse. I looked at the fuse box inside the car and I think I found the fuse I think it's the one in that yellow box that is in the right side center of the fuse box. How do you pull that thing out? Are you supposed to pull out the individual fuses. I pulled the yellow box. It only comes half-way out. How do I check that little 10 amp fuse inside that yellow box?
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I have a 2006 Accent and recently the interior lights have gone dim and the switch to adjust them does not make them brighter nor dimmer, why this has happened? I don't usually have it on the brightest but not the lowest either and now it seems to stay on the lowest setting.
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Every second or third time I turn over the engine, I get a warning telling me my key battery i dead. It's a 2006, so I can see how it might be. But the thing is, it still works from far away and the automatic unlock when I touch the handles never fails either.
Is it common to get a warning when there's still juice left in the battery or is this an error?
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Ran out of gas. Continued driving car til it stopped.
Filled car with two gallons. No however, the car won't start. First push of on button will turn console on, but can't boot up car with second push. Battery shows one bar. Tried jumping/charging with a friend's car, but didn't make a difference.
Is there a way to solve the problem without taking it to the dealer?
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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Yesterday I was going home and I had a dead 'battery' on my 2006 Prius. The lights were dim inside and all the maintenance lights came on. I realized when I had left the car at lunch, it was beeping at me so I figured something was left on.
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I'm having an alarm issue that I didn't think much about until last night. Twice in the last three days I've come out to a completely dead battery because the alarm has been triggered. The first time it happen was at the gym and I thought maybe the car got bumped, I inspected it and found nothing out of place. Last night , I came out and the car was dead. This time the car wasn't around any other vehicles and was in a place that no one should have had to go by it. Something is a miss here and was wondering if any of you might have experienced anything similar? The first time it happen I was able to get into the vehicle using the key fob, last night I wasn't so lucky. I had to use a lock kit to get in so I could jump it. I had to do this because I usually separate my fob from the physical key so I don't have to carry them. Until this is resolved, I'll have to stop doing that.
One more thing, I noticed last night after getting the car jumped, I was able to drive home, park the car and when I went to set the alarm, my auto headlights would not shut off after hitting the "Lock" button several times on the fob. Every other time, hitting the lock button twice would always shut off the lights.
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How to get into my car... keyless entry on all doors and trunk.... Do I have to call a lock smith to get into the vehicle...
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I have a 2007. So as the title says, my battery is completely dead, and my trunk is locked. I have the master key, but for some reason, it won't unlock the trunk. It will unlock the front door, but not the trunk. The switch on the dash won't release the trunk because the battery is dead, and the seat release is in the locked position, so I can't get in my trunk from inside the cabin either. This is an incredibly inconvenient situation, because I have jumper cables right there inside of my trunk.
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I have a 2006 GS 300 AWD with 47,000 miles. I am currently on my fourth battery in 13 months. Between 12/2008 and 12/2009 I have had to have three batteries replaced. The dealer says there is nothing wrong with my car. Is there anything I can do. The last time the battery died on 12/5/2009 the car could not be jump started and had to be towed. The dealer said there was no parasitic electrical short and I have just had three dead batteries in one year. I have heard there have been electrical defects in Toyota products and it is not just the gas pedal.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 115,000 miles that I've been having some problems with recently. Over the past 2 months the car wouldn't start 3 times. Once I jump it it runs fine for 2-3 weeks. This morning it happened again. Whole looking back on it every time seems it happen when the car doesn't run very long before I shut it off again.
Took it by dealer today and to ask them and setup a appointment. They think I have a battery going dead and he quoted it as $220 to replace. When I went to leave dealer the flashers blinked 2-3 times before it finally started. Done same thing when I got home. I also noticed when I locked the door that the red key light stayed on, instead of normal blinking. Went back out about 10 minutes later and it was blinking as normal.
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i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
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