Accent MC (2006-11) :: Idle Speed Will Increase To Around 1100 RPMs
Dec 28, 2012
I noticed on 5 different occasions so far this year that my idle speed will increase to around 1100 rpms when sitting at idle for more than a few min. Last summer it did it while running a/c, and today it did it with cold weather. The rpms are usually at 550, what happens is the pcm will decide to increase idle speed for no reason at all. Start driving it, and the next time at idle it will stop doing it, a couple times it went down to 550rpms, then went back up to 1100rpms. I recently changed the spark plugs, the air filter is clean, and runs good. I have a code scanner, no pending codes. I have 53k miles. I wonder what could cause this?
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So my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
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2008 accent. My check engine light came on this morning on my way to work. All of a sudden, while turning onto a street, the CEL light flashed and came on in the car. I noticed that when idling my RPM's are sitting just under 1000 and it will drop to about 500 then come back up around 1000 for a couple seconds before dropping again to close to 500. On takeoff the engine rattles and seems very boggy and slow to take off. Once I am at a higher RPM and on my way, the shaking stops and car drives as normal.
Like I said, it's a 2008 sport model, standard transmission and about 78K kms on it.
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I recently purchased a used Camry XLE V6 with 90,000km on the engine. Soon after I bought it I noticed when I was stopped at a light the engine rpm's would increase for a few seconds at a time every 20 seconds or so. It was enough to make the car move forward slightly if my foot was on the brake lightly. I spent some time trying to re-create it at home, and it seems to do it consistently when the A/C is on, although some times it is more noticeable than others. It will do it when in park, or in drive with the brake on. The low (base) rpm is around 650 and it will increase to 950. It does this over and over as long as the AC is on. The rpm's will also increase if I turn the steering wheel when I am at a stop, but it only does it when I turn the wheel, it doesn't keep cycling. There are no check engine lights showing either.
I changed the air filter and cleaned the throttle body butterfly valve flap (not the entire throttle body) but it did not fix it. I also brought it to a Toyota dealer and they took it for a drive, but of course it did not show the systems as clearly that day. I didn't book an actual appointment with the mechanic though, since the car is running great otherwise and this problem is not bad enough to start throwing money at it doing problem solving. I also asked the guy I bought it from and he said it always did this from day one. If it were me I would have been making my dealer resolve it because it is not normal.
If I could fix this one very annoying issue the car would be perfect. I'm not sure if I need to do a full throttle body cleaning including the idle air control valve, or if this is more about the load on the engine and the way the computer/engine is responding to it.
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I just flushed my coolant system and installed a red ELC, Riffraff billet thermo housing, Ford thermostat, new hoses and Riffraff coolant filter. When I first started the truck and was waiting for the thermostat to open I notice at idle the flow from the coolant filter into the Degas bottle was a lot.
Fast forward a week and about 75 miles I have zero flow at idle and it will start to dribble at about 1300 RPM's and increase from there. It seems the flow would not be dependent of the thermostat being open since the connection is below it. I am wondering if my Donaldson filter is already full?
I used a flusher that uses air and water, after flushing I used air to blow to tap water out. How fast have you guys seen one fill up? I ordered 2 extra but just do not want to waste the first one
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I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
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My 2007 5.4 Triton developed a miss. Code came up knock sensor at first. Changed knock sensor, did plugs, and coil packs. When we did the plugs, I was in town, and all of a sudden the truck just went crazy and started running like total crap. Was smooth up until this point. Spent three days trying to figure it out, and turns out one of the plugs went bad. Had to drive it like that back to the shop, and to work a couple times if that might have caused another problem. After that was fixed it ran like a champ.
Put Accel coil packs on. I had a sulfur/gassy smell coming through the air vents, and it progressively got worse, and the truck started missing again. I put the stock coil packs back on and the smell went away, and the previous miss was back, but wasn't as bad as the Accels. Brought the Accels back and ordered a set online, and installed them. Fixed the miss for about a week. Now it's back, and really prevalent at about 1100 RPMs. I swapped each coil pack today with a good one, and no change, so I don't think it's coil packs. I'm so confused and bummed over this... is it cam phasers? The truck is at 91k miles...
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. My truck starts to jerk around 50-55 mph at 1100 rpms and again at 80 mph.
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I just bought a 2012 hyundia accent automatic two months ago with 92,000 miles on it. I put everything i had down on it so now I don't have a lot for warranty co-pay or anything. After two weeks of owning it i got a P0420 code and a light tapping noise. Well i was going to work (i drive up and down mountains) and when i headed up an incline my rpms jumped from three to five and lost all speed. I pulled into rest stop and was freaking out. Anyway after about an our of me looking i decided to just shake my car back and forth. I got in and pulled back onto interstate and the car was fine..except for a baffled sound now with light tapping. I cant figure why after it cooled it ran ok. Makes me wonder if i had bad gas or something. Well fast forward one month and now i am throwing P420, P0011, P0326,and using one quart of oil every 300 miles. I have done the oil change, injector cleaner, airfilter. I am gonna change the pcv valve today and see if that works.
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So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
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I purchased my 2013 F350 PSD July of 2014 and immediately noticed "the shudder" when the engine was lugged down to 1000-1100 rpms on a hill. Sounding like somewhere around the turbo belching air too. At first I was startled but learned to manually downshift to higher rpms and it will stop. Once or twice I tried accelerating out of it and it shuddered as bad as the poster who said it made the steering shudder too.
My truck has 16,000 miles and I never let the rpms drop now. So I figure I have a real problem I'm not imaging. What should I tell my dealer is the TSB or remedy ?
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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Recently, my car has been having issues starting. It will start if I get a boost, but will be dead if I turn it off again. Also, while I'm driving, the airbag, ABS, and traction lifts all come on, and eventually my radio will shut off, but after a few minutes the radio will come back on and the warning lights will go off. When i first start the car it idles as it should but if I rev it will idle at about 1100 RPM. What might be causing all of this? Battery? Alternator? Or EPC?
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My girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
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VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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92 Jeep Cherokee 4wd, 4.0 motor, automatic. Several things have been done recently, new timing chain, coil, distributor and cap, map sensor, computer, cam shaft timing sensor. motor now will start and run. It runs well at idle, but the timing gets all out of whack as the RPM's increase. Is there a knock sensor on this motor, and could it cause this? If so, where is it located?
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So i noticed recently, last month or two, a rattling noise coming from either rear of engine or in dash that only happens when at the higher rpms like 4-6k rpm. It goes away once rpms come down.
I am thinking just something in the dash is vibrating a little. No other issues as far as i can tell.
It is very slight, almost sounds like a plastic food wrapper getting crinkled in there....
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