Accent MC (2006-11) :: Idle Bogging - Early Acceleration Is Lacking Power
May 13, 2014
My mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
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I have a 2008 Accent SE and I'm having some issues... The car was driving fine the other day all the sudden check engine light came on started flashing then and just stayed on. This happen before and the car was under warranty so the dealership fixed it but now it ran out and it's happening again. Anyway the car is running very rough at idle like the car shakes and acts like it doesn't want to run. Also when driving it honestly feels like the car has no power or acceleration what so ever. I replaced the air filter with a brand new K&N filter, I also changed the spark plugs today. I put NGK's in and the problem is still the same. I had it hooked to a code reader and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 2. I thought the plugs would have fixed it but I guess not.
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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I have a 2000 Honda Civic Ex automatic 225k miles on it. Recently replaced spark plug and spark plug wires. Just had an oil change and an inspection done; they found an oil leak in the oil pan (oil pan cover gasket needs replaced). I have a severe lack in power, meaning it doesn't have the get-up-n-go it should. Doesn't shift until it hits 3.5 rpms, idles pretty loud, and noticed earlier today that there is a rattling that seems to be coming from front drivers side(could of been the road, adding it in for good measure) but that didn't happen till i hit 65. The coolant tank has a black grime in it, and from what i understand that's from deteriorating hoses(?). My question is this: What could be causing this loss of power?
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After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid with about 150,000 miles.
It sometimes is lacking normal power - slow to start but fine once to full speed. When it is lacking power I notice that the gas engine is not shutting off when stopped at traffic signal like it normally does with charged batteries. It will be like this or a few days and then suddenly has its normal power and shuts of at traffic signals again.
Seems to be some failure of communication in the hybrid controls with system not telling the electric motor to do its thing. Where I should start looking for fix of this intermittent problem?
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My brother has an 03 GA GT. The car recently started bogging down on acceleration. It tops out at about 25 mph, and full throttle causes the car to stall. He was throwing a code for the egr valve, and replaced that. Then he threw a code for maf sensor, swapped it and no change. We've also changed the MAP, TPS, IAC, O2, Coolant Temp sensor; so far, no luck. I don't know much about these cars?
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My car is stored outside rather than in a garage in winter. I do notice bogging or "gargled" acceleration maybe 4/10 on occasional days and sometimes the engine light will come once this happens and then other times it doesn't come on when it occurs. Engine light usually comes on rarely but when it does, it's when the bogging is really bad.
Question is what would be the most cost effective way to solve or find out what the issue is? And/ or, what would you think the underlying issue would be for starters? Also, does my year car have a MAF sensor? BTW the cabin filter and air filter were just changed a few months ago but unsure if this would include the shop cleaning the MAF if I do in fact have one.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with the 1.6L in-line 4 cylinder engine w/ 160K miles. Over the last few months, I have noticed that when I run the A/C, the car has been at idle for a while, like at a stop light or in park at idle, and I have been driving the car for awhile in the afternoon (summer here), the engine sputters and hesitates on acceleration. The engine makes a pinging, sounds as if it's misfiring and then bolts like lightening, especially when I turn the A/C off. The mpg has declined. I barely get 21 mpg. The car does not have an inline fuel filter, only the "sock" in the tank. I have changed the spark plugs, plugs wires and have run two cans of Sea Foam FI cleaner through the fuel system and the problem still persists.
I am clueless to what could be causing this other than my injectors are still dirty and need a heavy duty cleaning. Could it be an alternator problem because I have noticed the dash lights and headlights get brighter. Could the ignition coil be going out. The car idles fine and the problem disappears when I shut the A/C off and only seems to do this when the weather is hot!
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I have a 2005 Accent with just over 35,000 miles on. Last night (in extreme cold here in Chicago), the car started running loud. Loud on start, idle, and acceleration - normal when maintaining speed, even at highway speed.
Since the loud sound first started, I have driven about 100 miles (had to for work, no choice). The sound is pretty much the same - definitely in the front end, and the best way I can describe it is a much louder version of the normal sounds you would hear - idle sound but louder, acceleration sound but louder, etc.
No warning lights have come on, car hasn't shown any signs of overheating on the gauges, etc. I had a somewhat similar issue with an old '99 Saturn SL2 w/ 115,000 miles - but in that instance the flex pipe had corroded and completely separated from the rest of the exhaust system.
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While driving on the freeway my car started to surge as if it was starving in fuel. I had to press more gas to go the same speed. My gas tank was at a 1/4 full so I pulled into the gas station to fill in gas. As I was leaving my car could not accelerate while pressing the gas pedal. I could floor the gas and it would go only five miles an hour! The engine temp was okay, no engine lights, and no weird smells. I was fortunate to be close to home and slowly made it letting cars pass me on the side. I called the road side service who towed my car to my dealer. They checked for codes, ran fuel injector cleaner twice through the system, checked the fuel pump, and the pressure on the fuel system, no problems. The third day they gave me a Sonata for a loaner and I allowed the service manager to drive my car to see if the problem reappeared. No problems found and I picked up my car today. The problem hasn't reappeared yet but I am keeping track of any rough acceleration or idle.
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I'm an Accent 2000 gs owner and since a few days i had this problem. It has a bad idle and looks like it will stall... need to give some gas to stay alive.
Bad acceleration too, it misses some gas. (puffing, rumbling, shaking a bit). After accel, it's ok until the next red light.
Now I can't even drive cause it's worse. (too difficult to accelerate). Is it a sensor?
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00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
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1993 Plymouth Voyager LE 3.3 V6 Automatic. Bogging down when entering an incline, keeps running in idle, will bog down, if dropped in low it will take off, sometimes backfires. Runs very good when on level ground. What can it be, mechanics suggest fuel pump, transmission, had it checked out by my mechanic and the fuel pump is fine, doesn't seem to be the transmission either.
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To start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
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I have a 2010 Camry Le with the 2.5 4cyl. What I'm trying to diagnose started in the last 2 weeks, the engine just seems like it's lost some power overall but there is no unusual sounds coming from the engine and it has not triggered and codes. I have checked the simple stuff like the air filter and plugs but am not sure where to turn next.
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My 2011 stick shift no air Accent has a hesitation or stumble on light acceleration that comes and goes. It may not occur for weeks then re-occurs. It is hard to reproduce intentionally. It never occurs in cruise. The CEL is not on. Most often occurs at 1400 to 1500 rpm with slight acceleration or a slight increase in load as coming to a slight hill. I tried injector cleaner a few times and changed air filter. It seemed more reloaded to induction airflow so I changed the MAP sensor. I understand the 2011 Accent does not have a MAF sensor. It is still occurring. It is fine in steady cruise as well as in hard acceleration. I am wondering if it is a TPS sensor problem. It has 60,000 miles and otherwise runs fine.
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I am having problems with my Prius. I have a 2011 prius with 145000 miles. I also have issues with the engine shakes initial idle and goes away with check engine light saying 2 & 4 misfire. Also I had a couple off issues where I was at a dead stop and when I accelerate the engine would feel like it Boggs and shakes from 0-20 mph then go away after. From 20-80 mph it's perfectly fine.
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I am after to find which USB cable and software can be used on my wife's ... 5/05 v6 Santa Fe to check the error codes. The car is revving up and down when cold and lacking power when warmed up, I'm guessing it's a sensor but I need to find which one.
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I've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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