Accent MC (2006-11) :: How To Change Internal Heater Radiator
Oct 12, 2015
It is a bit 'of time i notice that the water level goes down more than usual. Lately, the level drops from max to min in a month or so and, in addition, i smell of mold inside the car.
In the past I had the same problem on another car, and it was the tap on the radiator, which leaked. In the case of Rio/Accent, the radiator is a single body, so i suspect that will be drilled. Is it possible to remove it without completely dismantle the dashboard, as happens in many modern cars?
In the past i seem to have touched the internal radiator hoses, on the passenger side, but does not know if there's enough space to pull it off.
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I drive a 2002 Ford Ranger and am wondering at what mileage should I change the heater and radiator hoses. The truck lives in Phoenix, AZ and is driven almost daily.
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Today i drove 45 mins to the mall without incident. When i went to leave i noticed after starting the car my radiator fan came on and wouldn't shut off. Its 20 degrees (F) outside. Driving home there was a slight skip a few times going through the rev range while shifting. Later on today when starting the car it just cranked and didnt start until i put my foot on the gas peddle. Its done this everytime now since. (5 or 6 start cycles). A day ago i removed the stock air box and put on a cone filter, i had no issues until today. (24 hrs later) the car has 82k miles. Plugs were last done around 20k if thats relevant.
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I have an '09 Accent, with 102,000 miles on it, it is in good shape, and current on all its maintenance, however, i am leaking coolant via the radiator cap, and don't know why. It has been replaced twice, once by me, and once at the dealership after a pressure check confirmed i was not leaking anywhere else, ie: into the engine.
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There were some minor coolant leakage from the upper hose radiator so I have it replaced. Took me 2 hours because the thermostat housing hose neck gunk up with white lime.
Everything works fine but the car still suffering from minor coolant lost. Found some water stain over the bypass hose neck so I get it replaced too. Took me another 2 hours to get it fix because of the white gunk buildup. Secured everything including the hose and the clamps. Minor water stain still can be found at the bypass hose neck.
Replacing the radiator hose? Does it takes few days for the new radiator hose to fit 100%?
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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I have an accent 2006 GS Sedan. I bought this as used recently. Noticed that the lights are not powerful at nights. When I turn on the lights there is no changes in the power of the driving / low beam lights.
Whether this is the standard with accent 2006. Other vehicles I have with me changes the power of the light and in this case there is no changes at all. I bought extra powerful bulbs and put them and there was a slight change, but there is no change between the driving lights and the low beam.
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CEL/OBDII code P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
So I just bought this car 64k well maintained but cant get rid of the check engine light. Replaced downstream O2 sensor with no luck. As soon as I get home I'll check voltage @ connector. Lets test the O2 sensor connection and test the pins to make sure there is no break in the wires.
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I have an 08 Accent hatchback, no sunroof. I am having water soaking the passenger floor board and getting into the heater fan. If I park on a side hill it actually drips out of the bottom of the fan motor, and you can hear it being sprayed inside it when going around a corner. Checked the windshield - seal is good, took off the cowling under it and everything was dry - including the filter for the fresh air, so it doesn't appear to be coming down through there. I even poured about 8 gallons of water down the windshield and into the run-off channel at the bottom of the windshield and nothing seemed to get into the fan or leak into car, however, by the time I drove it home 4 hours later, it was in the fan again. Is there some other way to for it to getting to the fan? It's not coming from the door side, as it is usually dry on that side when it first starts getting wet, but rather it stars from the left of the passenger foot well.
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I called a local dealer requesting an appointment to get the auto trans fluid exchanged and the internal trans filter cleaned. The service rep told me they could not clean the internal filter in the transmission and there was no removable pan on the '07 Elantra transmission.
Is there a servicable fitler on the transsmission? If there is a filter should it be cleaned?
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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I just bought a used 2000 Ford F150 with the 4.6L V8 engine and I have a question about radiator fluid.
In the owner's manual it says that if the radiator fluid is green is should be changed every 30k miles, but if it is orange color it is only changed at 150k miles. I look at the radiator fluid and from outside the plastic case it is in it has a dark'ish orange/red look. When I shine a flashlight down the hole where you would add more fluid it looks orange/red, but also has a green tint when the flashlight shines directly onto the fluid.
How do I know which kind I have forsure? The truck was bought at a Ford dealer, but I never thought to look at it while I was there.=
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I have changed the compressor for my lumina LTZ 2001... After that a noisy sound start to appear ... And cooling stopped after a while((around a week)) they told me to change the heater core. And I changed it.After that similar sound start to appear again ... And the cooling start to be reduced gradually ...and then no more cold air..The sound appears infront of the next to driver seat.
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I purchased my Prius in CA in late 2008. As the CA temperature was not drastic, the heater temperature was never an issue. Two years ago I moved to CO. Today, for instance, short sleeved weather, but only 35 outside - the sun is out, it's a great day. Now for those that don't live in CO, this may seem cold.. but here's the issue, my heater goes from LOW to 65, 66, ... and up.. there are many times 65 is way to warm, and "LOW" (the outside temp) is too cold, so I toggle back and forth. Is there any way I can reduce the heat coming into the car, so when it's at 65 (reading) perhaps it's warming to 55.
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I did an engine swap for a junkyard motor my 4.0 ohv had a very bad rod bearing so I got one from the junkyard with 117,000,or so they say.Anyhow, after its all said and done it runs perfect except the temperature gauge seems to not get as high up on the gauge as before after sufficient driving(it used to run about middle of the gauge) it drops low at idle then goes up and stays up then goes down.it still has good heat, doesn't seem as good as before tho.I changed the thermostat also.
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I have a oil leak that has developed on front of engine (towards radiator). How hard is it to replace the gaskets necessary to stop the leak. I have done valve covers on a older dodge.
This engine looks like it is going to be more than one simple gasket. What research i have done also recommends i replace the injector o rings as well. Is there a kit that contains all i will need? How long would you expect it to take? IE a weekend enough time?
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My 2000 Accent with 164,000km is not overheating but is dumping coolant into the reservoir so that the radiator is about a quart low. I did have a few problems with it overheating in the past month, but that was solved by thermostat removal (always above 80F here). I stopped before the overheats reached the redline and allowed the engine to cool before continuing, no known adverse performance during the overheats. No water in oil.
Failed troubleshooting:
Drained and replaced coolant x3
New radiator cap
* No thermostat.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
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I did an oil change recently, as I have done many times in the past, but this is the first time different noise like this could be heard.
I had synthetic in there before (mobil 1 + mobil 1 filter) because it was on sale for a ridiculous price, and I figured I would try it out. I now have Shell oil in the engine and it is the same weight (10w-30) as always. It is dino oil, supposedly with synth blend or something, and I also installed another synth filter.
I now have some minor valvetrain noise, a little louder than normal, and a tick that is loud - which is the part that really worries me.
Should I go back to synthetic, or should I look at the top end? I opened the valve cover, but nothing looks wrong at a quick glance.
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After changing my CD player, my heater blows out cold air (not icy cold but cold like you have put the thermostat on low heat) all the time but my temperature gauge is perfectly normal! Its right in between cold and hot.
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