Accent MC (2006-11) :: Hesitating With A/C On - Belts Are Starting To Crack
Sep 7, 2014
My son noticed the other day that his 2008 Accent hesitates or seems to hesitate when the A/C is on. We have driven it without the A/C on and the car drives like always, no hesitation feeling.
When the A/C is on it seems like it looses power for a split second. I have driven it too and it seems like when the A/C comes on. We have had this car since new and just gave it to him for college transportation so I know this is not normal.
Did notice that the belts are starting to crack and will replace these next weekend but don't think that is it. Not sure if the A/C compressor is starting to go or something else.
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I've been getting a squeeking sound on idle, on occasions and when the car is under load with headlights, its one of the 3 drive belts but the car is only 4 years old with 17,000 kms
Is the squeaking sound normal for these cars, the belts visually look ok but a bit dry. Should I just change all three and be safe?
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My fuel door is starting to crack at the connection to the hinge? It looks like from the assembly drawing that I'll have to remove the wheel and the wheel well liner to get to it but the drawing is not super clear.
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Quite a few posts on this on the V10 forum. Mine Ex has been hesitating after starting (bad after a few days of no use) so I took off the old one and put on a new one. I'll clean up the old one and use it as a backup. Best to lay your body on old carpet on top of the engine, cause this value is right under the windshield, behind the air intake. Took about an hour with some swearing involved. DO NOT DROP tools, screws, gaskets, etc!
First few pics of where it's at .....
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My hyundai accent has been giving me fits for about 6 months but I didnt think it was a major issue, apparently I am wrong. When it first started the check engine light would come on randomly and go off after a few minutes or even a day. Then it started staying on longer and when it would go off my car would stall. Then when it got cold twice I went out to warm my car before I left and when I came back out to leave it was dead, had to be jump started and while driving the first couple of miles it would die, it always cranked fine but it at lights or stop signs would die. Now it has stopped all together, it turns but wont start. I have a spark and we have tried the cam sensor and crankshaft. The fuel pump wouldn't go out while I was driving would it? or what could it be we are kind of at a loss.
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My daughter's 2004 Camry V6 has been hesitating when starting from a stationary position or when accelerating after slowing down. Dealer has been having hard time identifying cause but thinks it is an oxygen sensor. Had one sensor replaced last fall when light came on. Tech Rep says there are four sensors. At least one is bad but the other two sensors may also be bad. Is there really four oxygen sensors in the 2004 Camry? Would this cause the hesitation when accelerating?
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My 1997 Toyota Corolla has recently began hesitating when starting. When I turn the ignition, her idle seems normal, but then goes 'down' and it feels like she's going to die. But then the idle/revs go back up and she's fine. However within the past week, she dies when starting (usually the first start or two of the day). She turns over, but then 'fizzles out' and dies. However when she does this, a small tap on the gas pedal revs her up.
This does not occur every time I start her. In fact the more I use her throughout the day, it seems she starts normal. There are no issues with RPMs/Idling when driving.
I've taken her to two mechanics and they could find nothing. Fuel pump, fuel line, throttle body, etc. All fine. When hooked up on the computer the only thing that showed a slight reading is the idle air control valve. But they can't be sure that's the problem.
Of course she hasn't died for the mechanics, just me as it's sporadic.
When I turned her on today she didn't die in the morning like she has all week, however the idle was so low that we were waiting for her to die. Slowly the revs picked up and she was fine!
I put fuel injector cleaner in a few days ago and got an oil change yesterday. That's it.
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So yesterday during a work lunch my CEL light came on. my car only has 20,700 miles on it. and I bought it brand new. So obviously I was very nervous. I took the car straight to the dealership and dropped it off, seeing as I was only 3 blocks away from the dealership.
They ran the diagnostic and it said there was issue with a cylinder misfire. And after some more tests it led them to replace the engine coil. They drove it 5 miles and believed it corrected the issue. That evening after work when the shuttle came to pick me up, I drove the car home and no issues what so ever. Car actually seemed to be getting up to speed better than before. (car is automatic).
The issue, this morning when starting the car and getting ready for work, I hear a weird noise when starting the car, revving the engine, and getting up to speed. It is not a ticking noise, I would describe it more as a rattle but that doesn't even describe it real well.
They also did an oil change. I bought the car brand new, and have never had any issues and religiously get oil changed by dealership every 3 months.
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2007 Accent GLS, US-market, Automatic, 140k miles
This is my wife's car. She called me from the side of the road while I was on a job out of town. The car had stalled while driving. She was able to re-start the car with check-engine lamp showing and took the car directly to a garage. It ran normally during that trip.
The garage diagnosed the problem as a failed crankshaft position sensor. They cleared all codes from the ECU without telling us what they were. My wife told them I would fix it when I got home. She drove the car home, parked it there and used my car until I got back.
When I got home, I replaced the crank position sensor with a new beck-arnley part. It was a poor fit, but it did go in. Now roughly every other start takes a few extra cranks. It always starts. It does not stall once started. No check-engine light since the initial episode. I just don't like the random hard starts.
Normal fuel consumption & power output. All other maintenance is up to date.
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So, I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent MC (1.4, 71kw) and for the past 2 years I have a very strange problem with the car. At first, when I was reaching a 70 km/h (43 mph) the car was starting to oscillate left and right. It isn't a vibration. It's more like a shaking. Also, when I change 1st to 2nd gear, in acceleration, i feel the same symptom, more like a vibration this time.
The oscillation happens between 70-90 kmh (43 - 60 mph). I really can not figure this out. While accelerating it happens the worst.I changed two sets of wheels and 3 sets of tyres. Also, I don't feel the brakes having a problem. While slowing down, I feel no other vibration in my brake pedal, just the one caused by the oscillation.
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I am seeking to identify a problem my hyundai accent model 2009. when it s cool or started with a time period gap between four to five hours. it some times not start with a try of three to four times and then start but giving some knocking sound, it went away after five minutes . once start and warm it is ok and again started when warm.
I did computer check but it result is normal and have changed also the spark plug and fuel filter but problem still exist. the problem may in timing belt -or fuel pump may any other reason.
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I have an 05 accent and about 6 months ago I started to notice a clicking sound coming from the belts area ( it sounds exactly like a BBQ grill igniter when it's pressed), the sound starts as soon as I start the car and stays pretty much the whole time, I had the car lifted by my mechanic and he discovered the problem in one of the belts ( not sure what is called but it's the one at the very bottom of the belts, the first one you see when you lift the car ), the spark is seen at the edge of the pulley or where the belt sits on the pulley. The mechanic was puzzled about this, he recommended replacing the crank sensor as a first step, the car runs fine and there is no other symptoms or issues
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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My wife and i have an 07 accent 2 door and we have a very hard time starting the car after putting fuel in it. Tank level doesn't seem to affect this issue. The car has 160,000 km on it. I've replaced the coil packs already twice. After getting the car to start after putting fuel in it it struggles at idle for the first 15-30 sec and then bang problem is gone until the next time i put fuel in it.
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I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
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2001 Accent 1.6, A/T. Just replaced alternator myself. Checked and adjusted all three belts; all seem tight. Now I have a belt squeal. P/S fluid is full. When car starts there is no squeal. 15 seconds later chirp starts. A few seconds later squeal is constant and remains throughout entire ride - except when I make a turn. During any turn squeal goes away, then comes right back.
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It was acting rough and was a little loud. Like a low deep loud, the engine light came on. I tried to start it, it would crank but no start.
Code came up P0340 (Cam sensor) So i replaced it, reseted and scanned again, now it says P0343 To much input sensor 1 bank 1. When i turn the key over to "ON" I don't hear the fuel pump, is this normal?
I don't understand what to do I am so lost, I am ready to do the timing. Is there something cutting my fuel pump out or is it done? Do i do the timing, or replace the pump ...
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I just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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2006 solara. Just changed both belts. Occasional 1 sec squeal on start. Both belts appear tight.
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